keinangst
Mar 18, 2009, 1:23 PM
Views: 19168
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
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Call me a purist here, but my case for hexes is this:
1. Cheap, obviously
2. Lightweight
3. No moving parts
4. Dyneema-slung versions can be used as runners in a pinch
5. Bail gear in a pinch (see #1)
and the last one:
6. If you're climbing trad routes that were put up with hexes and nuts in the 1970s or 80s, then why not repeat the route in the same style? Especially if the route has good stances for placements. We already have better shoes, ropes and harnesses. How much easier do you want it? Turn that music down and get off my lawn.
YMMV, but I've never felt constrained by having hexes (and no cams) up to 5.9/10, but it depends on the stone and difficulty of placements. If you have a patient belayer and a good stance, use a hex. I suck at placing them in camming positions, but in keyholes and chockstone-type placements, they're bomber.
(btw, I use WC hexcentrics slung with dyneema)
(This post was edited by keinangst on Mar 18, 2009, 1:25 PM)
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