Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [dingus] belayer constant focus on climber: Edit Log

Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [dingus] belayer constant focus on climber: Edit Log

kachoong

Apr 1, 2009, 6:50 PM

Views: 3268

Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304

Re: [dingus] belayer constant focus on climber Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)

dingus wrote:

One thing I have personally noted - my pet peeves are not necessarily those of my partners.

Example: a lazy belay habit in trad is to allow the leader to pull the slack through the belay device, rather than feeding. This makes my blood boil. A couple of my partners are all 'whatever.'

So I had to make a decision - kill them or deal with the issue. I split the diff and only killed one of them.

I'm certainly watching the leader closely if she's sketch, if she's cruxing, if she asks.

DMT

Heh! Hope you used their device to do it.

I'm sure this is common knowledge, but a good way to avoid the short-rope debacle that many bad belayers face is to belay a couple of steps away from the wall. When they need slack, just take a couple of steps back to the wall, while feeding them and you have a good six feet or so of slack immediately.

(This post was edited by kachoong on Apr 1, 2009, 6:51 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by kachoong () on Apr 1, 2009, 6:51 PM

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