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Re: [reno] Analysis of fatal accident in Joshua Tree 3/15/09:
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billl7
Apr 8, 2009, 3:42 AM
Views: 14144
Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
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reno wrote: I'd also agree that even when belaying from above, being tied into the anchor is a good idea. Usually, yes, I agree. I can think of two times where I've belayed from only a stance (edit: from above) over the past ~4 years. However, I wouldn't be surprised if the majority of multi-pitch climbers wouldn't have had a belay at all. My comfort level with this is that the terrain needs to be so easy that I can't imagine having to escape the belay. But if I think there is a chance of that then I'll build an anchor. Usually, the stance-only belay from above occurs when I've led off to explore and it turns out that the terrain backed off pretty quickly. Bill Edit: 'healyje's comment at the bottom (?) of this ST.com page provides an interesting view of anchors as backups to a stance.
(This post was edited by billl7 on Apr 8, 2009, 4:05 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by billl7
() on Apr 8, 2009, 3:44 AM
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Post edited by billl7
() on Apr 8, 2009, 3:45 AM
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Post edited by billl7
() on Apr 8, 2009, 4:05 AM
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