Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [sspssp] Hardest Crack Size?: Edit Log




petsfed


Apr 13, 2009, 7:03 PM

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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599

Re: [sspssp] Hardest Crack Size?
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sspssp wrote:
I would say you have to rule out tips/seams because then it is just a question of what a crack is. Same with non-continuous cracks and flares.

So for splitter cracks that are fingerlocks or bigger:

Yea, loose fingers is probably the hardest (not much feet) with ringlocks a close second (slightly better feet).

I find the hardest is OW is just below knee size. Too big for fist jams, but you can't get your knee in.

There is another tough size just below squeeze chimney (too small to get the hip in). Too big for stacks and too big for knee locks. Awkward size for feet.

Too lazy to look the grade up, but Owl Roof in Yosemite looks like it would be a pretty mean OW.

I dunno, that flared-too-big-for-stacks size chewed my ass for breakfast on a 10c last fall, so maybe it just *feels* harder.

I have to say that baggy fingers in a corner feels not so bad to me, although there has to be good footholds or pods present. I don't really want to think about overhanging baggy fingers, or a baggy fingers splitter. That sounds just heinous.

Ringlocks are starting to feel easier for me, although I've been doing mostly ringlocks in offsets. Coyne Crack Simulator, for instance, felt pretty casual, but it is really short.

Again, it seems to be the availability of footholds on cracks to small to easily jam that make all the difference.


(This post was edited by petsfed on Apr 13, 2009, 7:15 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by petsfed () on Apr 13, 2009, 7:15 PM


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