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Re: [rtwilli4] workout for climbing-sets/reps:
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PL7
May 6, 2009, 5:20 PM
Views: 5909
Registered: May 5, 2009
Posts: 4
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aerili wrote: I think 20 rep sets would be really useless. The power generated is, well, incredibly low, and I don't even think it would translate to climbing endurance much. But...I am not totally sure what kinds of resistance exercises you're referring to when you talk about this kind of rep scheme to begin with. Also, I don't think anyone advocates training for pure strength only, especially if routes are what you enjoy. On a related note, one thing that is apparent in the exercise science is that strength and power training do not appear to be detrimental much (or at all) to endurance performance (depending on how you define and measure endurance).
I was thinking of sets of 20 because most routes at the closest indoor gym are about what, 20 moves long? I figured out if I wanted to work out toward doing routes more than bouldering problems I should be doing sets of "climbing related exercises" with a number of reps averaging what I'd usually encounter climbing a route. That's my reasoning, but I was wondering what are the mountain climber's common schools of thought about this. I read that most high end competitors usually work endurance and power, so it kind of made sense to me. A boulderer would probably get more from strength and power, since problems are *usually* much shorter (it also makes sense when you consider energy pathway systems used).
And yeah, it is a popular belief that endurance/strength dont go together but I did notice that a lot of people who are good at climbing routes are usually about just as good when it comes to bouldering so that belief doesn't really seem to make sense when it comes to mountain climbing.
I read often that if you can do, lets say, 30 dips (endurance), and you start doing 5x5 of weighted dips, your strength will indeed go up but if you try pulling a max rep set of dips you will soon find out that your max dramatically went down. So I was wondering if bouldering often (due to a lack of stable route climbing partner) wouldn't impede on route climbing performance in the end.
I guess that since my fingers are the weakest link at this point, any finger work is good work though, especially bouldering.
Tell me what you think and thank you for the meaningful answers.
rtwilli4 wrote: Rarely is there an average recreational climber out there that really benefits from "training" in the first year.
I read this often and it couldn't be farther from the truth. A good overall fitness level will help you a lot when you start out. You can NOT get experience/footwork/finger strength/visualisation and all that stuff from exercising in a gym, that's for sure. But put up 2 beginners on a wall, a fatty who can't do 1 pull up, 5 push ups and walk up a set of 5 stairs without sweating Vs. someone who can chain 15 pull ups, 20 dips, has a decent core, good legs and good cardio... the fit guy will progress much faster. There is no arguing about it, just ask my climbing partner. He has more climbing experience than I do but my much greater fitness level ended up making me able to climb stuff a bit harder than he actually can, and he gets pumped a whole lot faster than me. I ain't bragging, I've seen it with other people also.
rtwilli4 wrote: Once you have a year, or even two years, of full time climbing (3 - 5 days a week) behind you, training is probably necessary to climb harder grades.
You're missing the point. I said I ain't training to get better at climbing. I'm training because I would be training anyway, I'm just looking about ways to make my regular training more useful for climbing since it has become my main sport.
Trust me, if I had the time and money to climb 5days a week, I would. It's just not possible right now so I'm trying to get better with the ressources I currently have.
rtwilli4 wrote: I like pushups, pull ups, dips, shoulder press, reverse curls, and all kinds of painful core workouts. I tend to use moderate weight that I can do 4 or 5 sets of 10 w/o a spotter.
Those exercises are pretty much what I did. You said you did sets of 10 though. I guess that makes sense for someone like you who boulders a lot but are you gaining a lot of mass? 8-12 reps is in the mass range. I was working out around that range recently (5x12) and I put up about 5 pounds of muscle within 1-2 months (without eating like mass programs requires you to). If I keep going that way I'll be much more competitive in bodybuilding contests than actual mountain climbing... It's one of the reason I was saying I was thinking of sets of 3x20. Good endurance, but no mass gains. Sets of 3-5 gives you good strength and little mass also so I was considering that as an alternative if sets of 20 were a no go.
(This post was edited by PL7 on May 6, 2009, 5:23 PM)
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Post edited by PL7
() on May 6, 2009, 5:23 PM
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