Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [cracklover] Aric's Alien break-fest: Edit Log




jt512


Jun 22, 2009, 12:45 AM

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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Re: [cracklover] Aric's Alien break-fest
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cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Gabe, have you been able to measure cam size? It will be difficult to control for the effect of cam size without such measurements. And without controlling for cam size, the analysis will be doomed.

Jay

Nope, I have not measured cam size. Frankly, I neither see the point nor do I know what measurement you're looking for, or how you think I could get it.

If you want to know the volume of material that needs to be moved before reaching the 35 degree slipping point, you would need to know more than just some dimension whatever that single dimension is you're looking for.

GO

There is no significant relation between scanned angle and failure load (p-value=0.42) or percentage of rated strength (p-value=0.62), after adjusting for rated strength.

As I explained before, I suspect that the importance of rated strength in the analysis is that it is a surrogate for radius of curvature. The smaller the radius, the less the cam has to deform for the cam angle to attain the critical angle. If I understand his post, Jfield has also stated here that the radius should be an important predictor of failure load. I explained very precisely what measure I was looking for. I was thinking you could get it off the scans, but now that I think about it, there was probably no scale on the scan.

Edit: There is a significant negative correlation between post-test scanned angle and lobe hardness (r = -0.60, p-value = 0.01), suggesting that large post-test cam angles are the result of lobe softness. Post-test cam angle, therefore, probably isn't giving us much useful information.

Edit2: The (partial) correlation is even stronger (r = -0.70, p-value = 0.002), after controlling for rated strength.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 22, 2009, 1:27 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Jun 22, 2009, 1:03 AM
Post edited by jt512 () on Jun 22, 2009, 1:05 AM
Post edited by jt512 () on Jun 22, 2009, 1:27 AM


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