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Re: [nolifeking] quick belay question:
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dorienc
Aug 19, 2009, 1:55 AM
Views: 3789
Registered: Aug 17, 2009
Posts: 49
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I belay pretty much the way you do. I can belay pinch slide, or BUS (never knew there was a name for it) but use your method because I use a body harness for medical considerations, and the high belay point makes it harder to recover from pulling a lot of slack after a clip. I teach in a gym (going on 15 years now) and teach the BUS method because it is easier for beginners to grasp (pun not intended). Once they are competent, I could give a r.a. which method they use as long as they maintain control of the rope and are always ready to catch a fall.
BTW, in answer to an earlier note about grabbing an out of control rope, slap the back of your belay hand against the climber's rope and slide your hand down onto your device, and mash your hand onto the loose rope, against your device. You can stop it, although you will lose some skin.
(This post was edited by dorienc on Aug 19, 2009, 1:59 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by dorienc
() on Aug 19, 2009, 1:59 AM
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