|
Forums:
Climbing Information:
General:
Re: [arrow] can i bolts new routes here:
Edit Log
|
|
USnavy
Sep 9, 2009, 6:47 AM
Views: 1695
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
arrow wrote: USnavy wrote: simonbrown wrote: hi, i am troubling in it. This zone don’t have the pure nature crag. But there are about 30 quarries. And these quarries were abandoned at 10 years ago and all are granite rock. I try to making two new routes at last two week. Here is some photos. The difficult are marked at 5.12a and 5.10c. Should i make new routes or stop it and closed the route? Help me plz. Thanks all What type of rock are you bolting and how hard is it? Once again I would like to reinitiate that the bolts you are using are ONLY for hard rock and they can fail under bodyweight alone in soft rock. And why do you think shear strength would fluctuate between soft or hard rock? ummm... of course the pull out strength of a bolt will be lower in soft (weak) rock. That’s common knowledge... Look at the strength values chart of any expansion bolt on the market. They give values for low compressive strength (soft), medium compressive strength (medium) and high compressive strength (hard) concrete. The strength values for soft rock is ALWAYS [much] lower than the strength values for hard rock except in cases where a very long bolt is being used. As far as the bolt pulling on body weight in soft rock: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gzuhyi76UqE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQt4AbQmJjE The bolts in those videos are very similar to what the OP is using.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 9, 2009, 10:06 AM)
|
|
Edit Log:
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 9, 2009, 6:48 AM
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 9, 2009, 6:49 AM
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 9, 2009, 6:49 AM
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 9, 2009, 6:51 AM
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 9, 2009, 6:53 AM
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 9, 2009, 8:08 AM
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 9, 2009, 10:05 AM
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 9, 2009, 10:06 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|