Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [kriso9tails] Red pointing: Edit Log




qwert


Sep 29, 2009, 9:45 AM

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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394

Re: [kriso9tails] Red pointing
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kriso9tails wrote:
I'm not really into redpointing, but I'll make as many onsight attempts as it takes to get a clean ascent. It's tough because I can never use the same belayer twice.
That is the way how you do it!

Other than that: it depends

Somone that is totally into sport climbing and obsessed with penis lengths grades might spend dozends of trys or months on a route, whereas others only do stuff that they can onsight.

My way (and i think its the best way) is somewhat in the middle.
If i try a route and cant onsight it i try to judge how far it is over my level. If the route is nice, and i see a chance to do it within a reasonable amount of tries i come back to it.
If i realize that it is way over the top for me, i go for something easier. Shure, i could project action directe, but what good would it be to always fall from the start holds from now to eternity, just greasing them up?

But the same applies to trad (or some kind of trad/ sport mix that some routes here have) where you not only have to get the moves, but also the pro.

qwert


(This post was edited by qwert on Sep 29, 2009, 9:46 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by qwert () on Sep 29, 2009, 9:46 AM


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