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Climbing Disciplines:
Sport Climbing:
Re: [steinmethod] Sling length and specs for hanging from shuts:
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maldaly
Oct 27, 2009, 5:06 PM
Views: 9037
Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1208
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Here's a cool method for topping out on a sport route that eliminates the need for a POS (oops PAS) or "bitch" slings. Better still, the climber re-threading the anchors will always be secured through at least 2 points.
The leader climbs normally until they reach the anchors.
The leader then clips each anchor with a 24" runner rather than a draw. Lower.
When the second gets to the last bolt before the anchors, she unclips the rope she's tied in to and clips the other strand.
At the anchors she unclips one of the runner from the rope and clips it directly to her belay loop. Then the other.
Now, still on belay through the last bolt, she unties and re-threads the lead rope, or even better, pulls up 6' of slack, pushes a bight of rope through the anchors, ties a F8 on a bight and clips in with a locker or two.
Now the leader takes to check the system, unclips and cleans the runners and lowers off.
During this transition the leader is never off belay and is always clipped into at least two pieces.
The two runners at the top are nice because if gives the climber room to make the transition without having to have extra gear.
This system works well regardless of whether the climber lowers or raps.
Climb safe,
Mal
[rant] There is no stupider or useless call than, "I'm in direct" or "I'm in straight." It serves no other purpose that to tell your belayer that they can relax and stop paying attention. I don't know about you but I want the full attention of my belayer until I get to the ground. [/rant]
(This post was edited by maldaly on Oct 27, 2009, 5:10 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by maldaly
() on Oct 27, 2009, 5:07 PM
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Post edited by maldaly
() on Oct 27, 2009, 5:10 PM
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