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Climbing Information:
Accident and Incident Analysis:
Re: [majid_sabet] belayer lets go of rope and partner falls 40 feet:
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dugl33
Nov 12, 2009, 10:02 PM
Views: 1667
Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740
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Well, just to throw into the mix.
I think if you can't hold the rope locked off under a severe load, the answer is more friction in the belay and proper technique. If you like gloves go for it, but this isn't addressing the real issue.
I've caught what I consider to be some real whoppers, and they have always lifted me off the ground, up to 5 or 6 feet. Not sure how this would have gone had I been tied down though.
One other thought not really mentioned is the trend toward skinnier ropes. Catching someone on the old 11 mm is different than a slick new 9.2. Might be time to upgrade to a guide atc in hfm, or something similar if you are using skinny ropes. Skinnier ropes are both harder to grasp and generate less friction through the belay device.
Edit to add -- an easy way to add friction using the gear you probably already have is to add an identical locker alongside your existing belay locker.
Edit to add2 -- I would speculate that many of the rope burns reported result when a new belayer reacts in panic, and death clutches the lead side of the rope, and not the braking side.
(This post was edited by dugl33 on Nov 14, 2009, 4:53 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by dugl33
() on Nov 13, 2009, 3:07 AM
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Post edited by dugl33
() on Nov 14, 2009, 4:53 PM
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