cfnubbler wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
taydude wrote:
hahaha I've never thought about that. Client short ropes you and rips you off the wall but they don't know what they're doing so they end up dropping you. guides that lead are brave mofo's
When you are guiding and leading, you are soloing. Period.
With all due respect, I disagree. I know of several incidents where guides have been caught by clients' belays.
If a guide feels s/he is soloing when belayed by a client, the fault is with the guide. I would argue that the guide has done a lousy job of teaching the fundamental skill of belaying.
What I take to be the spirit of your point is valid: Guides should do everything in their power not to fall when working. We are not payed to whip left and right, possibly get hurt and strand our clients, ect. This is a fundamental part of risk management and client care and comfort.
That said, clients can be (and should be!) taught to belay effectively, and we do a disservice to ourselves and them if we fail to do so.
Clients are by definition inexperienced. With the occasional exceptions however, they are not hopeless fools who cannot be taught fundamental skills.
