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Forums:
Climbing Information:
Technique & Training:
getting pumped too early, slow recovery between routes:
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sogetthis
Nov 17, 2009, 12:10 AM
Views: 7587
Registered: Sep 5, 2009
Posts: 17
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In a nutshell, I feel like my arms are getting pumped a lot earlier than they should be given my fitness and climbing level, trying to figure out why.
Background is, been climbing about a year, I did first 6 months mostly bouldering and outdoor trad. I climb 3-4x a week, at least one day outdoors doing sport or trad. Indoors typically like 1.5 - 3 hours basically until my arms are just blown. I don't rest any longer than I have to and I'm not there to chat, I like to just go. Indoors doing fairly even split between bouldering, tr and leading, if anything more bouldering.
General fitness very high resting heart rate 43, I mountain bike and run lots (have for years), lots of core work, minor weight training, no body fat to speak of. I seem to be fairly strong, forearms got quite visibly burly from all the climbing. I'd say my technique is slightly above average for someone climbing as long as I've been.
If anything I'd say I climb a bit like a boulderer since that's what I stared with initially and still love a lot. I'm not so foolish as to attack an entire pitch that way and do pace, shake out, look for places to rest.
So as mentioned originally, I notice that near tops of pitches esp if it's a crux, I seem to just be way pumped. Even more so than a buddy I climb with who's technique I'd say isn't quite as good, is nowhere near as fit - he does climb a bit faster than me though.
Also I don't feel like I recover as fast as I should be, between routes.
One thing I'm musing about is I am something of a caffeine fiend :-D. I eat really healthy, but I do love my caffeine. I'm having 3-4 low sugar energy drinks or more sugary coffee drinks a day.
Seen some info about how caffeine can interfere with creatine, and I'd say for sure caffeine affects me a lot. If I go for a hard run or ride on my normal dosage I will have a much worse run/ride than if I just have a little, heart/blood pressure just going too hard.
So wonder if that could be it plus a lack of very specific endurance training, suggestions ? ;)
(This post was edited by sogetthis on Nov 17, 2009, 1:23 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by sogetthis
() on Nov 17, 2009, 1:22 AM
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Post edited by sogetthis
() on Nov 17, 2009, 1:23 AM
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