Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [billcoe_] Gear Placement Pictures: Edit Log




sp00ki


Nov 27, 2009, 10:32 PM

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Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552

Re: [billcoe_] Gear Placement Pictures
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I don't climb trad, but all of this (very interesting) discussion makes me wonder... assuming that every potential placement gets to witness-- over the course of a route's life-- everything from occasional to daily falls, does pro and the force put on it eventually change the difficulty of a route?
How common is it for falls to change an easily protectable crack into something that's almost worthless?
Is it feasible that if a route becomes popular enough (given the ever increasing popularity of the sport), a route could go from protectable to dangerous or even un-climbable in the near future from climbers falling from especially difficult cruxes onto gear?

is this to be considered when selecting the type of gear to place?

Finally, is there gear that's more secure than just knots of rope that puts less stress on rock features than bare aluminum nuts?


(This post was edited by sp00ki on Nov 27, 2009, 10:34 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sp00ki () on Nov 27, 2009, 10:33 PM
Post edited by sp00ki () on Nov 27, 2009, 10:34 PM


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