Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [rgold] Interesting accident at the gunks on Saturday : Edit Log




patto


Mar 29, 2010, 1:23 AM

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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 1453

Re: [rgold] Interesting accident at the gunks on Saturday
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Fantastic post RGOLD!

Glad you posted and cleared up your view after the previous contextless quoting of yourself.

Despite that I am nominally on the other side of the fence to you in this discussion, I agree with pretty much everthing you said. I too almost never redirect and employ the same method as you for my belays when I am not using the autoblock.

With regard to effort of belaying with autoblock I find that friction is massively reduced when using a large radius biner. (original reverso) This makes life much easier and makes Z-dragging quite doable. (I have done this myself and found the friction to be low)


(This post was edited by patto on Mar 29, 2010, 1:36 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on Mar 29, 2010, 1:36 AM


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