jt512
Apr 25, 2010, 7:55 PM
Views: 22534
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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johnwesely wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: ClimbClimb wrote: jt512 wrote: It's obvious what went wrong: the belayer didn't lock off. Jay, yes, of course, I get that. I'm just wondering -- in tune with other threads on the topic -- whether there are some "belayer warning signs" or the like. The German accident was a leader fall, with much slack out, so that's actually easier to understand than a lowering accident like gblauer describes. It's unclear from gail's description whether she fell or had clipped into the anchors to be lowered. If the latter, then there is something to be learned: you shouldn't rely on a verbal "got" from your belayer. Rather, before lowering, you should grab the belayer's side of the rope with both hands. Then, after getting the verbal "got," gradually settle onto the rope, not letting go until you're certain that your belayer actually does have you. Jay like you do that every single time. [rolled eyes] Yes, actually, I do do that every single time. Jay You don't fall much then do you? Um, I fall plenty when I'm working routes. Jay Do you grab the belayer side of the rope until you know you are caught?
No, but it's a different situation. First, there is never any ambiguity about what the belayer's job is when you're climbing: he's belaying. At the anchors there can be ambiguity, miscommunication, and error. First you need slack, then tension, then to be lowered, and all this needs to be communicated with the climber and belayer at opposite ends of the pitch, and possibly out of each other's sight.
Second, grabbing the rope until you're sure you're on tension is a safeguard against one of the commonest causes of grigri-involved accidents: failure to shockload the grigri.
Third, if you sport climb long enough you will eventually weight the rope at the anchors thinking you're on tension, when you're not. This will almost certainly result in nothing more than a surprising drop of a few feet as your belayer wakes up. Occasionally, however, climbers have been dropped to the ground. If you are in the habit of always grabbing the rope until you feel tension, you'll never be one of the "occasionally's."
Finally, any time you have the opportunity to take responsibility for your own safety in climbing, and you fail to do so, you just plain fail.
Jay
P.S. How can you not feel at least a little bit stupid arguing against a safety precaution with no downside in a thread in which a serious accident is discussed that this precaution would have avoided?
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 25, 2010, 7:59 PM)
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