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Re: [jmeizis] Climbing gym disaster:
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jt512
Apr 26, 2010, 4:27 AM
Views: 8345
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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jmeizis wrote: In reply to: I've already explained why that is when you're cleaning, which, for some reason, is what I was fixating on. If you would rappel instead of lowering then you wouldn't have to rely on your belayer...
Well, if I would just solo everything, I wouldn't have to rely on my belayer, either. I'm convinced that rappelling is more dangerous than lowering, especially on steep, or traversing routes; and it is certainly less convenient.
In reply to: ...and people wouldn't need to replace anchor chains/rings as often.
Everybody I know who replaces anchors would rather have people lower off their anchors than rappel, even though it means they have to replace the anchors more often.
In reply to: In reply to: I have already explained the justification for grabbing the rope after cleaning the anchors before lowering. No one, including you, has given a valid justification for not doing so. There is no valid justification not to do so, hell do whatever you like. I guess I don't see why you would worry about them dropping you when you clean the anchor anymore than you would if you just climbed up and lowered as if doing a toprope.
I've already explained what the difference is.
In reply to: In reply to: Well, that is clearly false. If you sag onto the rope, the grigri can fail to lock, and if the rope starts to run through the device it is not at all clear whether the belayer can always get it to stop. Sorry, I should have predicated that by saying your belayer should know how the hell to use the device. If the belayer is controlling the brake strand then they should be able to bring you down even if for some reason the device failed to lock.
Nope, I disagree. A strong belayer wearing gloves might be able to do that. Certainly not every belayer could. An unlocked grigri does not behave like an ATC.
In reply to: In reply to: Even ignoring the fact that that statement has nothing to do with this thread it is bullshit. At every crag I climb at, it is expected that the last person on the route will lower through the anchors, and at the majority of crags I climb at it is perfectly acceptable for all leaders, and sometimes topropers, to lower through the anchors. I think I've shown that the statement has at least a little to do with the thread. Your crags must have some really rich and nice first ascencionists because I have never climbed at a crag where it was acceptable to toprope through the anchors and many crags I've been to it's not acceptable to lower through the anchors. I'd be more worried about inspecting those quicklinks you're lowering off of than whether your belayer is going to drop you. Why the hell would you gumbies wear out the anchor equipment so someone has to replace it more frequently than they otherwise would if everyone rappeled?
Because we "gumbies" know what the anchors are for.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 26, 2010, 4:55 AM)
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Post edited by jt512
() on Apr 26, 2010, 4:55 AM
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