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Re: [theguy] An online impact force calculator:
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jt512
May 19, 2010, 2:03 AM
Views: 13524
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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theguy wrote: jt512 wrote: What are you talking about when you say that it is demonstrably false that impact force on the belayer is proportional to the impact force on the climber? Thanks for catch... what I should have said is that the proportion differs depending on the friction.
I'm still not sure what you are trying to say. In both models the impact force on the belayer T2 is simply a fraction (1 – µ) of the impact force on the climber T1:
T2 = (1 – µ) * T1, where µ is the "friction factor" in the calculator.
In reply to: I see that on the website I'm now getting some funky results (e.g. no variance based on fall factor; standard and friction-adjusted numbers are the same), so presume you're now taking some of the feedback into account and tweaking the calculator.
I have not tweaked the calculator at all. If the fall factor is 0 or 2 (calculating using the rope modulus), or the friction factor is 0, the two models are equivalent, and hence produce the same results.
In reply to: Behaviour seems erratic, so may be a caching issue.
As far as I can tell the calculator is behaving quite well, and it is your comments that are erratic. According to my logs, none of your responses have been from cache. Can you provide some concrete examples of this erratic behavior you think you have seen? I suspect that you are mistaken.
In reply to: That said, what is intent of the standard vs. friction/adjusted columns? Would the standard column assume a friction of zero?
The standard model assumes, for the purpose of calculating the impact force on the climber, that there is no friction between the rope and the top anchor. The friction-adjusted model doesn't.
All of your questions are answered in the adjusted-impact-force.pdf document cited in the OP.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on May 19, 2010, 2:48 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jt512
() on May 19, 2010, 2:46 AM
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Post edited by jt512
() on May 19, 2010, 2:48 AM
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