Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [caughtinside] Quickdraw placement: Edit Log




USnavy


May 24, 2010, 2:33 AM

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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667

Re: [caughtinside] Quickdraw placement
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caughtinside wrote:
USnavy wrote:
p8ntballsk8r wrote:
There is a route I'm projecting that has a 4ft roof on it. After clipping the bolt below the roof and then continuing the route, the rope rubs against an edge that is sharp. How would I extend this quickdraw placement so there would be both less rope drag and this sharp edge would not be a factor.

I'm planning on using a runner, but I'm not quite sure how one would set that up. Would it be: quickdraw into a bolt, runner into the quickdraw, then another quickdraw? Is there an easier way to do this that does not require two quickdraws? Also is this a safe way of handling the situation or is there a better way to go about it?

Finally, could accessory cord, say a prussik loop be used in place of a runner? Or would that be a bad idea?

What the hell, your leading something with a roof but you don’t know how to make a draw with a sling? Anyway you get a four foot sling, clip two biners to it. Clip one biner to the bolt, the other to the rope. That’s it. Think of it as a super quickdraw... Search the term "trad draw" and you will learn much Obi-Wan.

Why would he need a trad draw? Dude is sport climbing. I'd go with a runner.

Trad draw, runner, whatever they are interchangeable terms. A two or four foot trad draw is a runner that has been collapsed to 1/3rd its size to be used as either a quickdraw or extended into a runner. So using other terminology, he needs a "runner" with two biners on it. He can throw it over his shoulder or colapse it into a trad draw and extend it when he clips it to the bolt. Either way, its the same thing.


(This post was edited by USnavy on May 24, 2010, 2:34 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on May 24, 2010, 2:34 AM


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