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Re: [psprings] Pulled off belay stance:
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jt512
Jun 16, 2010, 10:47 PM
Views: 2675
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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psprings wrote: cracklover wrote: ptlong wrote: cracklover wrote: If you tie in with a bowline, be aware that a single bowline is not capable of holding an internal pulling-apart force. There is no pulling-apart force. Think about it. Yes, you're quite right, I had only thought about it cursorily. I'll edit my previous post. Cheers, GO If you are weighting the bight of whatever knot is tieing you in, and your climber is taking, creating weight/load at the knot where your biner/belay device is at, how is that not a pull apart force?
I'm finding the setup a little difficult to visualize myself, but I think that the reason that there is no "pulling-apart" force on the tie-in knot is that the force of the fall will be nearly in line with the segment of rope that the belayer has tied into the anchor with. Hence, the impact force would be in a knot-tightening direction.
Is that correct (GO, ptlong, rgold)?
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 16, 2010, 10:47 PM)
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Post edited by jt512
() on Jun 16, 2010, 10:47 PM
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