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Re: [rgold] online force calculator:
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jt512
Sep 7, 2010, 8:00 PM
Views: 4347
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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rgold wrote: shu2kill wrote: hey. i found this online calculator http://www.myoan.net/climbart/climbforcecal.html but i think its mistaken... Oh god, not that pile of junk again. It's been up forever and wrong forever. A little experimentation reveals that it thinks the fall factor is 1 + F/2, where F is the real fall factor, so that, for example, it calculates a fall factor of 1 when the fall height is zero. (Of course, if and only if the real fall factor is F=2, then the myoan mess gets it right, but who know what, in general, it does next...)
It does the following. If w is the climber's weight (kg-f), f is the mis-calculated fall factor, and WTF_d and WTF_s are the "impact forces" (kN) for a dynamic rope and a static rope, respectively, then
WTF_d = (9/160)wf
and
WTF_s = 2WTF_d .
I'm not kidding.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 7, 2010, 8:45 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jt512
() on Sep 7, 2010, 8:04 PM
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Post edited by jt512
() on Sep 7, 2010, 8:40 PM
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Post edited by jt512
() on Sep 7, 2010, 8:45 PM
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