Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [onceahardman] Forearm pop: Edit Log




gmggg


Sep 9, 2010, 2:10 PM

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Registered: Jun 25, 2009
Posts: 2099

Re: [onceahardman] Forearm pop
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onceahardman wrote:
In reply to:
If you do a search here there is some really great advice from onceahardman et. al.

Why, thank you.

If the OP looks at the old Gray's Anatomy drawing here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/...rum_profundus_muscle

He'd see that the muscle belly leading to the 4th (ring) finger is the shortest one. (It's the tendon with the writing on it, saying "flexor digitorum profundus"). That also makes it the weakest. I'm pretty sure it's the most frequently injured when crimping, or pocket climbing, at least based on what I've seen.

It should heal up just fine. Keep it moving, daily. As the pain eases, begin gentle resistance, like with putty or a soft rubber ball. Ice is fine, but if it was me, I'd avoid the ibu. I think 4-6 months is probably pretty conservative. I think 6-8 weeks should see you back in good repair, unless you really tore the crap out of it. If you felt it a little, and stopped climbing so as to minimize the damage, the recovery should be shorter.

You're welcome, your thank yous are well deserved.

I was wondering two things, I've read that the profundus muscle belly being smaller than the others contributes to this injury from a few sources aside from yourself. How does that weakness come into play for the actual tear? Are there fewer muscle fibers connecting to the tendons? Is the tear location usually at the connection point between tendon and muscle or does it vary greatly?


(This post was edited by gmggg on Sep 9, 2010, 2:10 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by gmggg () on Sep 9, 2010, 2:10 PM


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