Re: [shoo] Trad gear testing
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One aspect that was being tested is placement strength in this rock type. The sandstone found around Sydney (and the Blue Mountains near by) produces some great climbs but isn't great rock. Its a variable mix of sandy cracks, crystal grains and solid features and faces hiding softer rock behind (look at the pics of the failed testing bolt in #16 to get an idea). One cam (test #3) did "pull through" an otherwise good placement, but did so at a force above a normal fall. The horizontal nut (#15) that popped looks terrible in the photo but did appear all right on the day when it was eyeballed by four different climbers. The lip of the horizontal break chipped at a very low force and the placement failed.
(This post was edited by superstu on Nov 3, 2010, 9:22 PM)
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Post edited by superstu
() on Nov 3, 2010, 9:22 PM
