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Re: [olderic] Weekend Report?:
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losbill
Nov 4, 2010, 8:17 PM
Views: 9055
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
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Apparently all it takes to liven up a quiet thread is for me to put up a post about being a wimp!
I hear you Jake about building up climbs in your head. I do it a lot. Yellow Ridge, Son of Easy O, Bonnie's, & Birdland have all been climbs I built up in my mind as challenges far beyond what they turned out to be once I headed up them.
Eric regarding flying, been doing more of that this year than the all the falls taken in the previous 3 years. However 5 of the 7 falls have been on what Tony and I thought was Blue Angel (5.8) at Crow Hill climb during two different attempts. The other 2 were the result of a brain cramp on Ant's Line.
The Crow Hill climb definitely climbs harder than 5.8. We now believe Blue Angel is 10 to 15 feet to the left of the climb in question, starting atop of the block with the 3" crack in it. FWIW, I have attempted that line in the past but retreated due to lack of pro.
For the climb in question, go up the Outersite crack and flake, then up the ramp/gully 8', just short of the block with the crack, and look up the steep face on your right. Go straight up to bulge 15' up, work up and right (this will bring you close to the arete to the left of and above the Intertwine anchors), or go straight over (significantly harder), to a ledge. Gear is there but I get burnt out hanging on and getting it in. Move up to another ledge beneath an overhang with a small cave-like feature above it (2nd crux). Take the overhanging crack straight on or move left and up and traverse right to cave. Step up to a mantle finish. Next time any of you more experienced climbers are out at Crow Hill give it a go and let me know what you rate it.
Wyeth was thinking of heading down but it seems as if it is going to be a bit on the chilly side. I will give you a call if I do go.
Bill
(This post was edited by losbill on Nov 4, 2010, 10:06 PM)
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Post edited by losbill
() on Nov 4, 2010, 10:06 PM
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