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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Escape belay 101, my way:
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majid_sabet
Dec 3, 2010, 10:07 PM
Views: 17719
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
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blueeyedclimber wrote: majid_sabet wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: aquadood wrote: majid_sabet wrote: 3- lock off belay and take min 5 feet of rope below belay device and put a fig 8 First thing that comes to mind is how do you tie a F8-on-a-bight with one hand. Shouldn't you first get hands-free with the classic mule-overhand method? Yes he should. Against my better judgment, I will give him the benefit of the doubt that it was just an oversight to not mention it. I actually do like the additions of the 4:1, which will take force off of the prussik. I hate to state the obvious, but this is not necessary if the climber can be lowered back to the belay. In case of an emergency, though, it's always a good idea to go hands-free, just to think. Taking a few minutes to decide on your best course of action will save time in the long run. Josh if leader is decked on the ledge 100 feet up you can't lower him Really?! I had no idea! That's why I said IF the climber CAN be lowered, because a lot of people are so gung-ho about self-rescue, that they will undoubtedly do something unnecessarily. Btw, if a climber is decked on a ledge, you wouldn't need to do any of that because they are not weighting the rope. Josh
not really
the leader must be secure so you still need to lock off belay and start plan B by either climbing the rope or whatever so the treatment is the same
Also, what if leader was resting on fifi and got hit by rock. how are you going to lower him ?
i got you
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Dec 3, 2010, 10:07 PM)
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Post edited by majid_sabet
() on Dec 3, 2010, 10:07 PM
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