Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [whiskeybullets] Red River Gorge - Trad Gear: Edit Log




currupt4130


Jan 17, 2011, 2:16 AM

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Registered: Feb 7, 2008
Posts: 515

Re: [whiskeybullets] Red River Gorge - Trad Gear
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whiskeybullets wrote:
Standard RRG trad rack for most people is doubles of fingers through fists. If you're a BD owner this would be .3 to 4. Then add a set of nuts and micro-cams. This will get you up 70% of the routes you'll want to do.

For your rack, I'd suggest the following;

Add two BD .3's. Add one ea of BD .4-3. Add two #4's. Forget the Hexes. Forget the tri-cams. Add a single set of micro cams. I'm impartial to Master Cams vs. C3s at the Red, but I LOVE aliens, so I'd buy those if you can find them.

So here is a caveat: If you can find aliens, I'd say buy those through yellow (black, blue, green, yellow), and forget about the BD .3s. That will be tough though. It will be much easier to buy the BD .3 and then go with either C3s or TCUs or Master Cams that are smaller. Any of these will work in the Red, and everyone has their opinion which is the best.

The money you save by NOT buying hexes and tricams will be spent on a 3rd #1 2, & 3 BD Camalot. I call this the girlfriend rack. With 3 BDs in the hand range, you can go climbing with your girlfriend (who has no rack of her own), and get up 85% of the RRG trad lines.

To critique jrathfon: you have more gear than is needed for a solo ascent of the Nose on El Cap. I'm starting to think you have stock in BD and are trying to earn some dividends.

I have to say I believe you to be mostly right, but partially incorrect. I guess some people like the BD .3 and .4, but anything smaller than .5 in the BD line I find less use for than a TCU or an Alien of the same size. The head width and lobe width of the C4s below .5, and even .5 a lot of times limit their placement in RRG type of cracks.

Yes, Aliens are still awesome, no matter what anyone says.

Yes triple 1, 2 and 3 will get you up so much more at the Red. I would add that doubling up on the fingers/knuckle size will get you up a good bit more as well.

And who cares what jrathfon has for gear? So what if he has a ton of gear, maybe he climbs huge big wall free routes for fun and has a good selection of gear to take to the crag. I have a triples rack from tips to fists. But like you said, that's the girlfriend rack and you can go out with someone who doesn't have any gear and climb almost anything you want.

There was some other talk about nuts, offsets, and RPs earlier, and I'll add my two cents on that as well.

Leave the RPs at home. Take a rack of DMM/HB offsets and a rack (like others have said) of BD 4-11/13. I also like to take my DMM Peenuts. If not all the Peenuts, just the two biggest ones. I have my offsets on one biner and my BD nuts on two others (big/medium medium/small) with doubles of the sizes I use most. This works well for me, but maybe not for everyone. I find tons of uses for the offsets without having to look too hard, I personally use them more than my regular ones.

As far as tricams are concerned, I don't leave the ground without my 4 tricams. I don't use them on every route but it seems like more than 50% of the time that I leave them on the ground I wish I'd taken them. Again, that's my experience and not everyone elses.


(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Jan 17, 2011, 2:22 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by currupt4130 () on Jan 17, 2011, 2:22 AM


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