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Re: [enigma] Communication when you can't hear each other:
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sp115
Feb 27, 2011, 2:44 PM
Views: 7450
Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515
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enigma wrote: Okay this might work if there is only one pitch. However quite recently I climbed outside, couldn't hear the leader at all, kept saying on belay, he couldn't hear me, I waited, tugged the rope , nothing, I was in such a quandary ,praying I was being belayed, then I figured, I sure hope so , then I thought well hopefully its an easy climb so if I'm not on belay I'll manage for a while. At least until I feel some tightness, but forget about making a mistake or rest,.
The number of pitches has nothing to do with rope commands working or not. The reason you had an issue was because you hadn't worked out a system and practiced it beforehand.
In your situation if you heard your leader yell "off belay" or the rope has come tight against you, you basically have two options: stay put or move up. You start by keeping your leader safe and on belay. A competent leader will figure out they are out of rope and build an anchor. You need to give them time to sort it out. Once you do decide to move up without confirmation, you've made a pretty big decision and you need to watch the rope carefully.
enigma wrote: I actually think letting down all that slack at the end would be quite helpful at least knowing I'm on belay.
This wont always work: consider a traversing pitch, slack may simply not make it back to the belayer.
enigma wrote: So lets say you are taking out cleaning a cam, and you need your belayer to take , How do you communicate that? rope pulls how many? It seems like there is still no uniform method that most climbers use when they can't hear one another with rope pulls -how many for what? - what would be a good uniform method every climber would use and know , thereby mimizing mistakes. I guess the most climbers doing multi-pitch are in favor of walkie talkies? Obviously there usually little hope of hearing your partner when you are 300 ft apart. Then of course the fact exists since there is no uniform non-verbal protocol , everyone will be non verbal communicating differently. Which makes it more confusing. Isn't there some Rockclimbing Standards for non-verbal communication while climbing by AMGA? Does anyone know which method is safest with non verbal communication with the most success?
Pay attention - no one has suggested mid-route rope commands, and no one has suggested most climbers prefer walkie-talkies.
Your continued use of non sequiturs suggest you haven't had a good mentor and have less experience than your claimed resume indicates you should have.
(This post was edited by sp115 on Feb 27, 2011, 8:35 PM)
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Post edited by sp115
() on Feb 27, 2011, 8:35 PM
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