Search for
Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [blueeyedclimber] Lead climbing question! :D: Edit Log




jacques


Mar 24, 2011, 9:56 PM

Views: 6591

Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
Re: [blueeyedclimber] Lead climbing question! :D
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
blueeyedclimber wrote:
This is not good advice, nor appropriate. He/she is a beginner and is most assuredly talking about gym falls and/or sport falls. Trad falls have nothing to do with anything right now.
Second, you don't "jump".
I was in a diedral, left wall. I took a hole in my right hand and slip. If I control my fall, I had bounce from one side to the other of the diedral with an 18 feet fall injury. I jump in the middle of the diedral and the rope stop my fall (stopper number 4, ouf)and bring me back safely to the rock (bungee effect) It was a safe fall, not an accident because I jump.
In reply to:
The more force you put into falling, the more force it's going to bring you back into the wall
When the belayer hold the rope too short, it is true that you can't jump because the rope bring you back to the wall. you can not avoid a ledge too. Inside, you don't have ledges, It is the reason why in trad the belayer keep slack in the rope.
I am often scare to be belay by sport climber. I can't climb at my level. If a beginer understand many way to save his .... , he is going to be a better climber. I emphasized that my observations are for trad climbing.


(This post was edited by jacques on Mar 24, 2011, 9:59 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jacques () on Mar 24, 2011, 9:59 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?