Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [Agilis] Need advice - Injured right ring finger - Full ROM: Edit Log


May 25, 2011, 2:23 PM

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Re: [Agilis] Need advice - Injured right ring finger - Full ROM
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Agilis, what I say might be construed as insulting. I assure you, I don't mean it that way.

First, a strain IS a tear. By definition. A grade III strain is a complete tear.

Next, what you said above regarding AROM and climbing, and continuing climbing as your AROM. This really shows you don't know what AROM means. No offense, you just don't know.

There are two types of ROM...Active (AROM), and Passive (PROM)

Passive Range Of Motion (for fingers) is using the other hand, or another person, to move the joint(s) within the available range. The purpose is to maintain health of joint surfaces, and to maintain health of soft tissue around the joint. The purpose is NOT to increase range of motion, since you only move the joint within the available range.

STRETCHING is moving a joint beyond the available physiological range. It's purpose is to increase ROM.

Active Range Of Motion- is using one's own muscles to move a joint within the available range. It does everything that PROM does, but adds on active muscular contraction, so it will increase blood flow to muscles (etc.) much more than PROM will.

Resistive exercise- is adding resistance to normal physiological motions so as to provide a strengthening effect.

Climbing easy routes is therefore resistive exercise (as far as your finger tendons are concerned), not AROM. AROM is a safer option for early rehab of this injury. Once you are pain free, and not inflamed, you can start very gentle resistive work. You can do this however you want, but if you were my patient, I'd have you proceed in a more controlled fashion than even easy climbing.

(This post was edited by onceahardman on May 25, 2011, 2:26 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on May 25, 2011, 2:26 PM

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