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Re: [herites] path to improvement:
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aethyr
Jul 12, 2011, 10:08 PM
Views: 6761
Registered: Jun 27, 2011
Posts: 26
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herites wrote: 99% of the time, when a beginner thinks he needs finger/grip strength, he isn't doing a move in the optimal way. Get out to real rock, even III-IV routes have "shit" holds and such, but with proper balance and footwork they are the easiest things in the world.
I don't doubt I'm extremely inefficient with my moves. But I also think that perhaps you veterans forget how much stronger your finger and overall hang/pulling strength is compared to a beginner.
For example, I saw a staff member climb a V0 in a very efficient, effortless way. I thought, "wow, why didn't I think of doing that?" So I tried the same thing and failed miserably because his efficient movements were achieved with a move that required greater strength than I possessed. But to him, the move was effortless. To me, the move was impossible at the time.
Or another example, I'm told to keep my body as close to the wall as possible...but doing that on a roof requires great strength! So at home, I practice hanging and pulling myself up using my kitchen table as a roof.
(This post was edited by aethyr on Jul 12, 2011, 10:13 PM)
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Post edited by aethyr
() on Jul 12, 2011, 10:13 PM
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