Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [DouglasHunter] Help clear my head, please.: Edit Log




flesh


Jul 16, 2011, 7:59 PM

Views: 2759

Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 419

Re: [DouglasHunter] Help clear my head, please.
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

DouglasHunter wrote:
Juzzyclimb wrote:
Hey there.

I've decided I want to utilise bodyweight training to help with my climbing and I've picked out a few exercises:

-Pull-ups
-Push-ups
-Sit-ups
-Handstand push-ups
-Body weight squats (eventually one legged)
-Finger hangs

Are these appropriate for climbing? Are there others I SHOULD be doing?

I'm having trouble with deciding how often I should perform them and how many reps and sets to use. Any help regarding this would be a massive help.

Bit of background info:
-23 years
-6ft 3inches
-77kgs (170lbs)
-Climbing for two months.

Cheers.

If you want to do these activities because you find them rewarding that's fine, but you should not be doing them and expecting any impact on your climbing. Even something like finger hands which can be helpful probably won't in your case because you just don't have any movement experience.

At all levels of climbing the top priority is to get a high volume of high quality movement practice. This is all the more the case for the novice climber who knows none of the movement patterns involved in climbing. Your priorities should be:

1- Learn to make high quality contact with the rock or wall. this means quickly identifying hand and foot holds and the ability to establish good quality contact with the holds. The silent feet and glue hands activities are helpful here.
2- Learn the fundamental movement patterns found in climbing, turning, initiating movement from the lower body, how to move with straight arms (not a goal in itself but a good way to learn other skills)

3- Each day you climb either out doors or at the gym climb at a level at which you are comfortable. If the hardest climb you can do is 5.9 then you should be doing a high volume of 5.6 - 5.8 but if you find yourself struggling or just pulling yourself up the wall, just stop and get on something easier.

high volume of high quality practice should be every climbers mantra.

Anyway glad that you are psyched to climb but keep your focus on what will actually make you a climber. Good Luck.

Doug, I just realized I'm pretty sure I use to climb with you at rockreation when I was young. Did you train Aaron Shamy and others back then? Probably late nineties if I recall. Everything you discuss here reminds me of your training. Merrill Bitter was my coach back then.

I just found your picture on the internet, it's you. Too funny, I use to boulder with you at rockreation and I had long, long hair.


(This post was edited by flesh on Jul 18, 2011, 5:57 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by flesh () on Jul 18, 2011, 5:57 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?