Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [rescueman] Sliding X Question: Edit Log




patto


Sep 2, 2011, 6:38 AM

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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
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Re: [rescueman] Sliding X Question
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rescueman wrote:
redlude97 wrote:
Are you such an authority that you can just make up new meanings for well established terms now?

No. But I'm such an authority that I know that the term "shock load" is one of the least well-defined and most misunderstood terms in climbing.

In physics, a "shock load" is typically a ballistic impact. But in rope work, a shock load is any sudden deceleration and there is no standard for how sudden.

So, in essence, there are only two kinds of rope system loads: static and dynamic (or shock). If a climber falls on anything but a perfectly tight rope, there is a shock load as the downward acceleration is arrested.

In the same way, the load on your feet from standing is a static load. The load on your feet (and knees) from jogging, jumping or even walking downhill is a shock load (and your knees will tell you that).

So you thought that it would be sensible to add to the confusion?


In the physics and engineering world that I've encountered a 'shock' is an event where the energy imparted happens over such a short time frame that it is easier to treat it as happening at a discrete time point. How short time frame is short depends on the circumstances.


Back in the world of climbing if there is a dynamic rope involved then we normally don't refer to it as shock loading.


(This post was edited by patto on Sep 2, 2011, 6:42 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on Sep 2, 2011, 6:42 AM


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