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Re: [LostinMaine] Double rope resources?:
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sandstone
Oct 28, 2011, 2:55 PM
Views: 11066
Registered: Apr 21, 2004
Posts: 324
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LostinMaine wrote: ... if I shift to half ropes, I want to get the most benefit out of them instead of doing what seems intuitive (since intuitive will likely bring me back to single rope techniques).
I consider the singe vs double rope comparison to be sort of like comparing a six and twelve string guitar. If all you have ever played is a six, transitioning to a 12 is not difficult because the chords are the same -- you can pick up a 12 and play it right away.
In reply to: My biggest concern is rope management of skinny ropes on multipitch belays.
I've never found that doubles were that much more complicated. I wouldn't worry about that aspect so much -- it's not that big of a deal. You've had the occasional rope tangle with a single rope, right? Well you're gonna have the occasional rope tangle with doubles. They will be different colors, so sorting it out is not that bad. Any additional amount of grief you have with doubles will be more than offset by the benefits they give you.
When I climb ice, it's usually as a team of three, and i usually lead all the pitches. Sounds slow, but it's not. At the end of a pitch I'll put in a screw, clove to it with one rope, and signal off belay. I'll set another screw, and clove to it with the other rope. I'll clip on an equalizer sling between the screws, and belay up my partners (climbing simultaneously) off the anchor using the ATC Guide in autoblock mode. When they stop to take out screws I will sip water and eat snacks I've stashed in my pockets -- by the time they get to the anchor I will be ready for the next pitch. I loop the ropes (treating them as one rope) back and forth over my tie-in as they come up.
When they get to the anchor they clove in with their respective ropes. I grab the stack of ropes and flip them over (upside down) onto my belayer's tie-in. I grab the ice screws they removed, and head up.
When I'm leading I will clip one rope to pro that is on the right side, and the other rope to pro that is on the left side. To help my simple mind keep up with which is which, the red rope goes on the right.
As you can see, there is not much gear involved, and the whole system is quite simple and easy to manage -- thus it is also efficient. The same thing applies to rock climbs.
In reply to: The last thing I want is a cluster in transition while leading on a new rope system - but I guess running up a few 5.5s should solve most of that concern.
Yep -- a little practice is all you need to alleviate your concerns.
(This post was edited by sandstone on Oct 28, 2011, 3:00 PM)
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Post edited by sandstone
() on Oct 28, 2011, 3:00 PM
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