Nov 30, 2011, 1:09 PM
Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Since you decided to ruin my fun in a way no one could miss, I actually have a heart warming story about the route in question.
One of my steady climbing partners used to have the worst lead head imaginable. He would take at every single bolt even out of habit. He had never redpointed a route despite having climbed for years. It was pretty strange to say the least. He also claimed he had no interest whatsoever in redpointing, which was an obvious cop out. One fateful day, we decided on climbing the route in question. It was a route we had both climbed multiple times before and a favorite of my friend. Despite it being short, lame all around, and a complete pain to get to, I agreed to go do the route on one condition, my partner would take some practice falls and make an honest attempt at redpointing the route. Surprisingly, he agreed.
I hung the draws, and my friend took his first practice fall, a tremendous three foot top rope whipper. Even this small act took five minutes of arguing. The next fall, around five feet, went a little easier, and after a few more, we were up to ten footers with nary a complaint. Still, on his redpoint attempt, he hesitated. He wanted to take so badly, but I would not let him. After much consternation, he successfully clipped the chains in an effort of will I doubt has been repeated.
Licheness sucks. There is no doubt about it, but it still holds a special place in my heart. After that day, my friends climbing habits were completely transformed, and he went on to red point 5.11. Whoever chopped it is an idiot.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on Nov 30, 2011, 1:10 PM)