Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [jt512] $40 bet - two non-locking biner anchor failure.: Edit Log


Feb 2, 2012, 7:50 AM

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Registered: Aug 14, 2006
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Re: [jt512] $40 bet - two non-locking biner anchor failure.
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jt512 wrote:
dead_horse_flats wrote:
jt512 wrote:
dead_horse_flats wrote:

4. Failure means the rope escaped from BOTH biners. Both means both.

Prove it and I will mail you $40.

Why would the rope have to escape? Shouldn't failure also include both biners breaking, or one biner breaking and the rope escaping from the other?


I will accept broken biners. Prove that it can happen. No theories.

"Prove that it can happen" and "No theories" seem to contradict each other. Do you mean that the only proof you'll accept is the demonstration of an actual failure, say, by using a drop tower? And that an argument based on logic and physics, if someone could construct one, would not be acceptable as proof?


Yes. Exactly.

Being an engineer myself who has actually created and used many such simulators, I understand there is a difference between theory and actual application. The calculations you did in physics101 usually had an intro that contained " assume zero friction".

On the other hand I am talking about serviceable, non deformed biners. If you build an anchor with a compromised* set of biners then thats just simple darwinism.

*bent, grooved, etc.

(This post was edited by dead_horse_flats on Feb 2, 2012, 7:55 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by dead_horse_flats () on Feb 2, 2012, 7:55 AM

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