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Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Bouldering: Re: [shurafa] The V0 Dilema for New Climbers and its Effects on the Rest of Us!: Edit Log




ceebo


Mar 5, 2012, 1:03 PM

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Registered: Nov 9, 2009
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Re: [shurafa] The V0 Dilema for New Climbers and its Effects on the Rest of Us!
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shurafa wrote:
devkrev wrote:
shurafa wrote:
...it still seems ludicrous that what was once considered and impossibly difficult climb is now the basis for the bottom of the rating scale. Imagine if 5.10 was the bottom of the scale for top roping!

This smells like a troll, but anyway....

Didn't the guy who invented the V-Scale want it to be ridiculously hard? Didn't he want V0 to be closer to the current V6?

Language is arbitrary. Talk to your gymsetters about easier problems, who cares about the grades.

dev

Far from a troll just someone who has introduced tons of people to climbing. The ones who dont come back are the ones who who could not get off the ground.

And yes the V scale was designed to be difficult. That is why the V0 is soooo difficult. However this was a short sited move as bouldering has gotten very popular however it is still limited to climbers who can already climb 5.10. This is very limiting and artificial.

Has anyone else tried to introduce a new climber to bouldering only have them get shut down before they get started?

These people need even less than v0's, they need ''scrambles'' no joke. These are people who seem to have had a sport inactave child/adult hood and have little to no strength or coordination. I have came across a few of these people and even on the most easy of climbs (slab with jugs) they struggle very much to grasp the balance and motor skills involved in climbing. Some of those people were also over weight and that only further added to the struggle. The issues i mention lead to a level of climbing that is below any curent sport or boulder scale.

These kind of climbers are rare imo.. at least in uk. Only some 1/100 kids/adults i teach have real lack of motor skills while some also having extra weight to carry.. to the point where even the easiest of climbs is above them.

The typical climber is nothing like the above though. They will handle some or all of the V0's on first day and by the third month be in the v1-v4 range where they will spend the next year or so trying to push into the V5/6 range.

A hand full of other climbers will be at v6+. Those climbers are not as common as the low range climbers.. i would say their is 5 low range climbers to every 1 mid range climber.. and high range climbers are even less again.

In short.. as a gym route setter i will try to keep as many people happy as possible. Say i have space for 100 problems i would be doing something like this

10 problems at v0
60 problems in range of v1-v4
30 problems v5 and over.

Begginers do not stay begginers for long.. you can not set many problems only for first time climbers.

If anything the issue is on you. Did you make good enough effort to put them on an angle they could actually do?.. and add extra holds where you seen fit to give them a chance?. You do not HAVE to stick to a problem... for a persons first climb i know full well they barely understand nor care what a v0-1-2-3 is anyway.

Sorry i did not mean it to sound so hostile. But i find that new climbers do far better when they are introduced to climbing using slab with any holds. This gives them some time to get a grasp on the motor, balance and so fourth.. while allowing them the chance to get to the top and feel like they have not ''failed''. New climbers do not understand that failure is not exclusive to falling.. so it can be importent that they do reach the top from time to time in any way possible.. till the understand differantly.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Mar 5, 2012, 1:16 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Mar 5, 2012, 1:14 PM
Post edited by ceebo () on Mar 5, 2012, 1:16 PM


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