Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [BetaRock] Theory about forces in a 3-legged cordelette: Edit Log




patto


Jun 25, 2012, 4:48 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2005
Posts: 1452

Re: [BetaRock] Theory about forces in a 3-legged cordelette
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I believe John Long did do tests with the 3 legged cordalette. But there was so much wrong with John Long's 'research' that it is hard to know where to begin.

The two legged cordalette is trivially easy to equalise well as long as there a proper 'V' angle formed. A three legged cordalette is almost impossible to get perfect but in my experience I can get rough equalisation without too much difficulty.


The two biggest flaws in John's research were:
**the presumption that near perfect equalisation is necessary.
**the false conclusion that shock loading doesn't matter



(This post was edited by patto on Jun 25, 2012, 4:49 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on Jun 25, 2012, 4:49 PM


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