Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [bearbreeder] accident ... possibly belayer error: Edit Log


Jul 10, 2012, 7:40 AM

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Re: [bearbreeder] accident ... possibly belayer error
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bassfreak, glad you weren't hurt worse.

With regard to these questions, though:

In reply to:
- what diameter was the rope
- do you know if the belayer kept both hands below the atc
- was it a standard atc, or something with more friction like an atc xp or guide

Outside of likely being contributing factors relative to a clearly inexperienced belayer, they should not distract from the fact the principal root causes here are inexperience and judgment. They would not be an issue of any kind with an experienced belayer and shouldn't be allowed to confuse the issues at hand in this case beyond simply acting as a precautionary heads up to new belayers.

The issue of judgment, however, is more difficult, especially for new and intermediate climbers. Simply put, though, you absolutely have to take as objective a stance as possible when it comes to leaving the ground.

Over the past couple of decades gym/sport climbing have very much altered climbing with it increasingly becoming a more social and group activity. And the close proximity and familiarity experienced in gyms can also affect our perceptions, even outside of close friendships or familial relationships. Climbing has similarly become much more familiar at large in our society and media and the perception of outright danger has also been lessened over time.

But this is where climbing isn't just dangerous, it's fundamentally and inescapably a life and death affair and you can't afford to let familiarity or inter-personal awkwardness of any kind whatsoever cloud your personal judgment around your own or your partner's safety.

(This post was edited by healyje on Jul 10, 2012, 7:45 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 10, 2012, 7:45 AM

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