Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [jt512] accident ... possibly belayer error: Edit Log




patto


Jul 10, 2012, 12:10 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2005
Posts: 1451

Re: [jt512] accident ... possibly belayer error
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jt512 wrote:
All that accomplishes is choppy lowering, motion sickness, and unnecessary force on the anchor. You should be able to maintain complete control of the rope and the speed of lowering while letting the rope slide through your hands (with both hands on the brake side of the rope at all times—no exceptions).
Jay

Oh dear. If you are that worried about unnecessary forces then you should rapping or self lowering!

Hand over hand (or hand to hand) is a very valid way of control over the rope. In fact it is superior as it does not rely on palm to rope DYNAMIC friction. A static grip will not cause heat and will be stronger and more controllable.


EDIT: Added text to clarify.


(This post was edited by patto on Jul 11, 2012, 1:21 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on Jul 11, 2012, 1:19 AM
Post edited by patto () on Jul 11, 2012, 1:21 AM


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