Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [jackweeze] Advice on a high-performance non-downturned shoe?: Edit Log


Jul 11, 2012, 5:48 PM

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Registered: Jan 5, 2009
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Re: [jackweeze] Advice on a high-performance non-downturned shoe?
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jackweeze wrote:
thanks everyone for all the replies and advice. I thought about the TC Pros, but everything I've read implies that they are basically made for cracks, and like I said, I really never crack climb. Also, while I said money is not an issue for my purchase, I was thinking more like <$150, where TC Pro are literally the most expensive shoe out there. Sorry for being lenient with my stated parameters.

The Katanas are an interesting recommendation. My first shoe was the Nago which was way too wide for me, so I'm forever a little shy about getting Sportiva--though I know that's probably something I'll have to get over.

Also, I suppose I didn't really think about that an edging slab shoe is pretty different than a typical smearing shoe. The Katana Velcros (VCS) were also an interesting recommendation as they seem to do a little of both.

What are your guys's (wow, that is grammatically awkward) preferred shoes for non-crack, non-overhanging routes? Do any of you use a non-downturned shoe as your go-to shoe on these types of climbs?

I wear the Katana Lace for most face routes. Downturned and stiff, but sensitive and precise. They work equally well on vertical edging nightmares and powerful overhanging crimpers.

Only if I know I'll be doing a lot of smearing will I throw something softer on. They are really a great shoe if you can overcome your desire for them to be flat lasted.

Edit: For the record, they would be pretty similar to your Vapors. If you're really interested in a flat lasted, edging oriented shoe, you should demo one. You'll probably like what you have just fine if you give them a chance.

(This post was edited by shotwell on Jul 11, 2012, 5:50 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by shotwell () on Jul 11, 2012, 5:50 PM

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