Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [jensen] Sequelette?: Edit Log


Sep 17, 2012, 8:04 PM

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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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Re: [jensen] Sequelette?
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jensen wrote:
In reply to:
Aside from the over complication and reinventing the wheel issues, you have nylon on nylon in a position to slide in the event of a shift in direction under tension.

Thanks for the constructive input!

I understand the issues with nylon on nylon. And I see now that eventually equalizing the long loop through the the two inline-8 loops will eventually wear those loops down especially if I leave them pre-tied.

But I'm not sure where you see stuff shifting under tension. From my living room experiments, both the inline-8 knot and the overhand knot (assuming you position it correctly) tighten like an overhand knot would in a standard cordelette setup. Can you clarify?

Let's label the legs on this pic A, B, and C, left to right. Any movement by the belayer side to side, even just readjusting your stance or yarding in rope, could cause the fixed loop from C to saw against A and B. A sudden sideways pull, say from a traverse just before the belay, would exacerbate this. Also, any failure of A or B would create extension which would shock load C.

Edit: OK, I see now this is only a midway step in your set-up, so no hot nylon on nylon scissor action. Still all that extra fiddling just makes it even more complicated, time consuming, and undesirable.

In reply to:
And I'm sure a rope setup is super fast but I like the idea of my anchor being a separate system from my rope so it's easier to handle a self-rescue situation should I ever encounter one.

There's an old saying that "if you bring bivy gear, you will bivy.". It's a generalization, but holds true all too often. If you go about your climbing anticipating a self-rescue, well, you get the point. There are tried and true time tested methods to escape a belay from a rope anchor, and you would do well to learn them. You will ultimately climb faster, lighter, and safer.

(This post was edited by edge on Sep 17, 2012, 8:25 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by edge () on Sep 17, 2012, 8:06 PM
Post edited by edge () on Sep 17, 2012, 8:24 PM
Post edited by edge () on Sep 17, 2012, 8:25 PM

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