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Re: [kazu] chipping acceptable in this area??:
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kennoyce
Oct 15, 2012, 2:10 PM
Views: 14369
Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
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kazu wrote: This area has seen a significant development these days. Yesterday, I climbed a new line on the upper falls that traverses the lip above the roof on the main face. It’s a great exposed line probably within 11+-12- range. But unfortunately this route was extremely manufactured. I really appreciate the developers of the area but I’m not sure if this kind of chipping is appropriate here. This place is not a man-made quarry…
No, it's not acceptable there. The route that you are talking about is now being affectionately called "Castration" by many of us locals. A little background on it, it was originally bolted by Louie Anderson several years ago and was thought to be about 5.14b. It was an open project, but nobody ever redpointed it, so a couple of weeks ago, Louie deided that he would rather have it be an easier route so that it would actually get climbed. He went back up and both chipped it and glued some additional holds onto it. I haven't climbed it yet, but Louie rated it 5.12a.
As someone who is doing some of that new development up at frustration creek, I am sadened that this happened, but at least all of the other developers that I know up there are also saddened by this act. While I do appreciate all of the work that Louie has done for the climbing community, I think that he has spent too much time at the quarry and really needs to think about what he is doing when he develops other areas.
Edited to add: I have no knowledge that the route would have gone at 5.14b. Louie says that it wouldn't have gone at all and was too blank, but I guess now we'll never know.
(This post was edited by kennoyce on Oct 22, 2012, 2:52 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by kennoyce
() on Oct 15, 2012, 3:09 PM
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Post edited by kennoyce
() on Oct 22, 2012, 2:50 PM
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Post edited by kennoyce
() on Oct 22, 2012, 2:52 PM
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