Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [shotwell] Fear of Lead Falls: Edit Log




DaveE


Dec 8, 2012, 10:46 AM

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Registered: Jul 25, 2012
Posts: 5

Re: [shotwell] Fear of Lead Falls
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saint_john wrote:
DaveE wrote:
As long as you are a couple bolts into the climb and your belayer is remotely competent, there is no way that you will hit the ground. Especially sport climbing in a gym, there is no way you will blow your last clip.
Dave


A climber can easily deck from the second, or even third, bolt if there's enough slack in the rope. Technically speaking too much slack can cause a climber to deck at any point on a climb. There was an article about this in R&I magazine last month.

My advice to the OP is this: Learn to recognize a safe potential fall from an unsafe potential fall.


I wouldn't call someone who leaves enough slack in the rope to let you hit the ground off the second or third bolt competent...

Recognizing an unsafe potential fall is extremely important though. Very well put. I hate clipping the second bolt when climbing outside. Often times the slack needed in the line to clip combined with the distance from the previous bolt is enough to hit the ground. That scares me.


(This post was edited by DaveE on Dec 8, 2012, 11:09 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by DaveE () on Dec 8, 2012, 10:51 AM
Post edited by DaveE () on Dec 8, 2012, 10:56 AM
Post edited by DaveE () on Dec 8, 2012, 11:08 AM
Post edited by DaveE () on Dec 8, 2012, 11:09 AM


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