Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [Medic91] TR Anchors: Edit Log




Kartessa


Feb 25, 2013, 7:58 AM

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Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [Medic91] TR Anchors
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Medic91 wrote:
I've been climbing for about three years now and have always used quickdraws for my anchors off of chains at the end of a route. The place I usually go has the chains hanging right off the top of the route to avoid rope rubbing.

I recently found a different place where the chains are back away from the ledge creating a large amount of rubbing on the rope when top roping. I went to REI and purchased two things of webbing and two locking carabiners hoping to learn some more about safe ways to make my anchors hang off the ledge and eliminate the rope drag.

Are there any great videos or websites that can help me learn ways to anchor safely? I have been learning little bits and pieces but I am wanting more information before putting my gear and life on the line.

Thanks

Toprope anchors off bolts aren't rocket surgery...

Step 1: Clip bolt with locking biner, have long sling/runner/cord attached.

Step 2: Repeat with at least 1 more bolt.

Step 3: Gather ends together, ensure they are long enough to hang over the cliff. Bonus if they're each taking an equal share of the load (See Equalizing).

Step 4: Tie ends in an overhand knot, and use two (better: locking, best: Steel locking [less shit left on your rope this way] ) carabiners. This will be where your rope runs through.

Step 5: Check your system, making sure everything is closed and connected and locked. (*)

Now

Even though it's not rocket science, common sense is rare. So practice this in your mom's basement, out on your deck, in a tree... wherever. Then get someone who's done this before to look at it, could be that you're friends with an experienced climber, or nobody likes you very much so you'll have to take pictures and upload them here.

After that's been cleared, go to the crag on a busier day and have someone nearby check out your set-up... just to be sure.

(*)Get someone else to check your shit the first few times you set up, to make sure everything Super Awesome. Actually, even when you think you're top dog at setting up, don't be afraid to check with someone else.

You don't need to "Find a mentor" to spoon feed you instructions for a toprope anchor. Sure, its the #1 awesomest way to learn anything about rock climbing... but there's something to be said about someone who takes ownership of their own learning and development, yet still knows when to ask for help and admit they're wrong.


(This post was edited by Kartessa on Feb 25, 2013, 8:02 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Kartessa () on Feb 25, 2013, 8:02 AM


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