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Re: [jb2100] Bouldering Difficulty Progression:
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jb2100
Jul 3, 2013, 10:10 PM
Views: 8320
Registered: Oct 10, 2010
Posts: 20
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Funny looking back on this three years later and wondering what the fuck I was talking about. I believe when I posted this I was climbing that hard in the gym (on crimp problems of all the same style), most of the 5, 6's and 7's I had done were put up by a V11/12 Hueco Tanks local named Travis Vincent who likely couldn't tell the difference between a V4 and V8, to him it was just Veasy.
None of these problems I had done were outside. Fast forward 3 years. I've sent a few outdoor V5's at local area's but most of the bouldering I've done has been at Hueco Tanks. To date I've done 3 V6's and 1 V7 (which I think needs to be downgraded to V6) outside. According to my original post it would seem like I've gotten worse (though in reality I've gotten much better I was just too much of a noob back then to realize that gym grades don't mean anything). Granted I spend most of my climbing time sport climbing these days and not bouldering I still don't think I've ever pulled a V8 move (whether on a boulder or a route) in my life. If I could answer my original questions I would say "Start bouldering outside. Get a tick list, when you've flashed 5 of the last 7 outdoor V5's you've gotten on you can say you "consistently flash V5" same goes for the V6's, how many have you sent outdoors? What different styles? What about V7? Confirm where you at with outdoor boulders. Secondly, a lot of people can rush through boulder grades in the first year and get past V5, most people don't get very far past though, but your progress will slow down. This doesn't mean you're getting worse, just that bouldering is not a linear progression. V6 isn't x points of difficulty more than V5 which is x points of difficulty more than a V4. Have fun with your climbing, push yourself as hard as you can, don't worry about the numbers. You might find that you'll be stuck for 3 years at V5 even though you've certainly gotten stronger, or you could have a year where you jump up from V6 to V8, in the end the grades don't mean that much, you know how hard you climb, you know how much you've progressed compared to where you were. That's the only scale that matters.
(This post was edited by jb2100 on Jul 3, 2013, 10:13 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jb2100
() on Jul 3, 2013, 10:12 PM
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Post edited by jb2100
() on Jul 3, 2013, 10:13 PM
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