Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [Gmburns2000] Labour Day Weekend: Edit Log




losbill


Sep 7, 2013, 8:47 AM

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Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416

Re: [Gmburns2000] Labour Day Weekend
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Geez Greg! Get you butt out and do something! Your going to turn into a lard ass! Currently in California. Headed back today after 11 straight days of climbing in Tuolumne. This is a view of The Meadows from the Top of Fairview Dome.



On the way down from the Reno area things were pretty smokey from the Aim Fire. Definitely had some concerns. But we had a back up plan. Head south if necessary down to the Bishop area. So no worries. Right. Been thinking and dreaming for a year about climbing in the Meadows. No worries. Right.



However things cleared as we made our way south. Worries dissipated and spirits soared. By the time we started up the hill at Lee Vining it was beautiful!



Had a great time. I was out with 7 other Boston area climbers. Despite the Aim Fire we were chased out of the Meadows only one day. That day we went to Clark Canyon and had a wonderful day clipping bolts and climbing Tuff. Here is John clipping up at Clark Canyon



Due to road closures and threat of smoke the Meadows was like a ghost town. Felt bad for all the climbers who were not able to get there. But their loss was our gain. Most days we had the area we were in all to ourselves.

Here I am on the first pitch of Isotacy on Dozier Dome. I am relishing the first piece of gear I was able to get in for awhile and the last I will be able to get in for another awhile!



Here is Ed on Plutonics on Dozier Dome. It was a great lead. It is way steeper and harder than it appears in the photo!



Highlights included South Crack on Stately Pleasure Dome. Spectacular climbing on absolutely beautiful granite! Brad took the first pitch, an awesome, testy fingers to finger tips 5.9 crack. I took the second a 5.8 fingers to hands with great moves and rhythm. Here is Brad coming up to the second pitch belay.



The next two pitches eased off but were fun. My pitch featured some very substantial runouts, 40'+. You have to love those knobs!!!!

The other highlight was the Regular Route on Fairview Dome. Another terrific climb. I took the first pitch and ran it 200' to optional belay, 5.9 160' and 5.8 40'. Harder than other similarly graded pitches I had climbed in the Meadows. Plus although the face was dry the crack was wet from the previous afternoon's thunder storm that chased us off West Cottage Dome. Note to those using SuperTopo's topo for rack recommendation and planning to take the first pitch up 200' throw another one or two extra #2 or #3 BD cams on the rack. Here is Ed approaching the crux on the first pitch. The team waiting to start were YOSAR. Nice to know help was so close if needed!!!



Ed ran the rope out 215' for the next pitch requiring some simulclimbing. Topo characterizes the main part of this pitch as "incredible sustained 5.7 fingers/hands". Given the 5.9 rating for the first pitch I have concluded that this is code for 5.10a. It was tough! Definitely sustained and felt harder than the 5.9 and 5.8 bits I had done below.

The climbing eased off at this point and we moved upward with pitch after pitch of fun climbing on beautiful clean granite with great spacious belay ledges. I was totally worked from our first 420' and handed the rope to Ed to bring us to the top after leading the 5th pitch (our 4th). The man is a machine! Here he is up high on Pitch 6 (our 5th).



We were rewarded with a great summit with spectacular 360 degree views. A great way to end my trip to the Meadows.

Here is Ed with the Grand Canyon of The Tuolumne behind him. You can see it filling with the smoke from the Aim Fire.



Here I am with what I believe to be Mount Conness over my right shoulder. Yes it was a bit windy on top.



Looking forward to the Gunks for fall. See you soon Gail!


(This post was edited by losbill on Sep 26, 2013, 7:30 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 25, 2013, 6:02 PM
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 25, 2013, 6:15 PM
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 25, 2013, 6:25 PM
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 26, 2013, 4:58 AM
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 26, 2013, 5:14 AM
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 26, 2013, 5:16 AM
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 26, 2013, 5:24 AM
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 26, 2013, 6:54 AM
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 26, 2013, 12:05 PM
Post edited by losbill () on Sep 26, 2013, 7:30 PM


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