Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [onceahardman] Crimping evidence: Edit Log


Nov 2, 2013, 5:49 PM

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Registered: Sep 28, 2010
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Re: [onceahardman] Crimping evidence
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onceahardman wrote:
There are some studies which have given evidence that pulley injuries happen almost entirely during crimps
Please post links quickly to those multiple published studies.

When I carefully went through several papers about climbing grip forces, to follow up on that paper referenced in the Purdue lecture notes, I don't think I noticed any mention of or references for such a study -- and I think I then would have been very interested to follow up on anything like that (but perhaps I somehow missed it) -- and I'm still interested now.

I believe I own and have read thoroughly pretty near all the English-language books on climbing technique and training published in the last ten years, and I don't remember mention of any such studies. And while most of those books do recommend training the open grip as an alternative to the habit of crimping anything, I don't recall any suggestion that climbers could prevent almost all pulley injuries simply by avoiding crimping.

(This post was edited by kenr on Nov 2, 2013, 5:50 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by kenr () on Nov 2, 2013, 5:50 PM

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