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cchaliens


Jan 4, 2006, 11:09 PM
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CCH response to alleged defect
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The Silver brazed connections on Aliens are made by experienced ,skilled people who take great care in the quality of the braze. The accusations being made on this site are quite serious .
An examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims made regarding alleged failure of the brazed connection. Without an actual report by a lab we will assume this is a staged hoax.
The cable on a 1.5 orange alien will hold over 3500 pounds, far more force than a falling climber could ever generate. When tested on a machine the cable will break ,not pull out of the cable eye.
David Waggoner at CCH


tradklime


Jan 4, 2006, 11:15 PM
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Dave,

Did the cam in question from the "Feb. 2" allegation ever get examined by a metallurgist? If so, what was the result?


fishercrack


Jan 4, 2006, 11:18 PM
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The axle holes? Do you belive they were also a hoax?


anson


Jan 4, 2006, 11:46 PM
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In reply to:
An examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims made regarding alleged failure of the brazed connection. Without an actual report by a lab we will assume this is a staged hoax.

You appear to be implying that you are going to ignore your customer complaint unless the customer coughs up the dough to analyze your product for you. If you do indeed mean it that way, you deserve the massive loss of customers that will naturally result. Companies that pick fights with their customers, even with just a small fraction of those customers, inevitably fail.

As an alternative, if you were to request the Alien in question, get it analyzed in a lab on your nickel, and communicate to the climbing community what happened, regardless of whether it was a hoax or a product defect, you might actually earn some new customers out of respect for your demonstrated desire to learn more about your product from real-world incidents.

And should your product turn out to be defective, (never rule out the unlikely,) you might be able to recall its batch-mates in time to prevent being sued for criminal negligence by the bereaved family of some other climber who was not lucky enough to fall cleanly after the next failure. From what I have heard about the size of your business, a suit like that would probably kill CCH outright.

I'd suggest thinking about all these things before adopting a 'not my problem' stance, and if you're not, you might want to re-word your statement.

-aB


healyje


Jan 4, 2006, 11:52 PM
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In reply to:
The Silver brazed connections on Aliens are made by experienced ,skilled people who take great care in the quality of the braze. The accusations being made on this site are quite serious .
An examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims made regarding alleged failure of the brazed connection. Without an actual report by a lab we will assume this is a staged hoax.
The cable on a 1.5 orange alien will hold over 3500 pounds, far more force than a falling climber could ever generate. When tested on a machine the cable will break ,not pull out of the cable eye.
David Waggoner at CCH

A hoax? David, wake up and smell the coffee, dude! That can't really be your response. You think he dug out a torch and undid the head of one of his Aliens to f#ck with you? You're kidding right? Did you even respond to the original poster? Did You arrange for an independent lab test of the cam such that original poster would send it directly to the lab for a truely independent test. Hell, I'd be willing to help arrange and pay for such a test. So are you serious? And as was just asked, what about the axle hole problem? Just how did that get out the door? How come when I and others send a cam in for repairs it takes months of badgering to see it come out the other end? I for one am positively shocked by your response and I do know about manufacturing so consider taking a few deep breaths, think it all over a bit more, and come back here with a credible response to this and the other issues that shows you have some remaining grip on reality...


epic_ed


Jan 4, 2006, 11:53 PM
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Dave, many of us have been ardent and loyal CCH customers for years. As stated, I myself own 36 of your cams and cherish them dearly. Over the past year there have been accusations by at least three different individuals about the head failing during a fall. If you've followed any of these discussions, you'll note my response has always been to give you the benefit of the doubt and I've urged everyone to consider that even the best of manufacturing processes can't guarantee a defect free, fail-proof product every time and all the time. Sometimes gear fails and that's how it goes.

However, your response to this latest controversy baffles me. A one-in-a-million failure shouldn't happen three times in one year. Maybe this is a hoax and the accusations are entirely false, but I would hope that you could do a little more to reassure your customers that you are pursuing this accusation/problem to the ends of the earth. We have supported you over the years with our dollars, our loyalty, and by word of mouth. It shouldn't be very hard to get us to ralley in your defense, but you really need to do better than what appears to be complete denial of any problem. Dave -- the fucking sky is falling. Snap out of it.

How about if you explain for us what is being done to acquire the supposedly defective cam, and assure us that this and the other accusations are being investigated? If the original poster who is making these accusations is unwilling to cooperate and it turns out this is a hoax it would be very easy for you to publically discredit this guy and, believe me, the troops would rally and come to your defense.

Here's an example of what would be reasonable -- it seems there are a couple of "defects" that I'd like to see you address:

- How many cams went out with faulty-drilled lobes for axle insertion?
- Was it limited to just the Orange Alien? Or were other production models affected?
- What dates do you think these were produced and when/where were they distributed?
- What are you doing about these cams? Replacing them as customers complain seems like a really poor way to address the issue.
- What is the expect outcome of using one of these cams? Is the strength weakend, or does this just cause problems with the range?
- Out of the three accusations of the cam head failing at the braze that have occured in the past 12 months, how many of these cams have you been able to acquire for inspection?
- Have you been able to substantiate any truth to the claims, and if so, what is being done about it?

These aren't unreasonable questions, Dave. Please step to the plate, allow us to come to your defense by presenting yourself in a more credible and proactive light. I don't want to distrust my gear, especially not my Aliens. But I need more than the explanation you have offered above as an assurance to know you are doing everything possible to investigate the accusations of faulty production.

Thanks,

Ed


flamer


Jan 4, 2006, 11:56 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
An examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims made regarding alleged failure of the brazed connection. Without an actual report by a lab we will assume this is a staged hoax.

You appear to be implying that you are going to ignore your customer complaint unless the customer coughs up the dough to analyze your product for you. If you do indeed mean it that way, you deserve the massive loss of customers that will naturally result. Companies that pick fights with their customers, even with just a small fraction of those customers, inevitably fail.

As an alternative, if you were to request the Alien in question, get it analyzed in a lab on your nickel, and communicate to the climbing community what happened, regardless of whether it was a hoax or a product defect, you might actually earn some new customers out of respect for your demonstrated desire to learn more about your product from real-world incidents.

And should your product turn out to be defective, (never rule out the unlikely,) you might be able to recall its batch-mates in time to prevent being sued for criminal negligence by the bereaved family of some other climber who was not lucky enough to fall cleanly after the next failure. From what I have heard about the size of your business, a suit like that would probably kill CCH outright.

I'd suggest thinking about all these things before adopting a 'not my problem' stance, and if you're not, you might want to re-word your statement.

-aB


You should talk to Black Diamond....their attitude is much worse, on very similiar subjects.

I think I'ts been shown in the discussion on this site that the person making these accusations had an alterier(sp?) motive.

In my personal dealings with CCH they have been extremely easy to deal with and respectful/appreciative of their customer base.
I, for one ,will continue to use the quality product that CCH provides.

josh


crimpstrength


Jan 5, 2006, 12:00 AM
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are you guys at cch going to run out of money soon, so you will get back to work?


pdx_climber


Jan 5, 2006, 12:04 AM
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This forum is ridiculous sometimes.

Did the people who experienced this malfunction go direclty to CCH with the issue, or just post about it here? If it's only the latter, I'd call their motives and intellgence into question.

And what's up with the troll by crimpstrength? Doesn't that kind of crap get tossed out by the mods?


healyje


Jan 5, 2006, 12:06 AM
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In reply to:
I think I'ts been shown in the discussion on this site that the person making these accusations had an alterier(sp?) motive.

Josh where - exactly - in this thread has it been shown that the original poster had any ulterior motives whatsoever? So far they have been completely forthright in attempting to present this problem and get it resolved. There is no basis whatsoever for your statement above...


epic_ed


Jan 5, 2006, 12:06 AM
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This forum is ridiculous sometimes.

Did the people who experienced this malfunction go direclty to CCH with the issue, or just post about it here? If it's only the latter, I'd call their motives and intellgence into question.

How 'bout if you puruse the original thread?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=104150&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=0

In reply to:
And what's up with the troll by crimpstrength? Doesn't that kind of crap get tossed out by the mods?

Sometimes. You looking for a job?

Ed


davidji


Jan 5, 2006, 12:10 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I think I'ts been shown in the discussion on this site that the person making these accusations had an alterier(sp?) motive.

Josh where - exactly - in this thread has it been shown that the original poster had any ulterior motives whatsoever? So far they have been completely forthright in attempting to present this problem and get it resolved. There is no basis whatsoever for your statement above...
What you said. I skipped most of the posts (I'm only here to look at the pictures), but this is the first I've heard of an ulterior motive being demonstrated.


healyje


Jan 5, 2006, 12:12 AM
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In reply to:
This forum is ridiculous sometimes.

Did the people who experienced this malfunction go direclty to CCH with the issue, or just post about it here? If it's only the latter, I'd call their motives and intellgence into question.

And what's up with the troll by crimpstrength? Doesn't that kind of crap get tossed out by the mods?

Did you actually read this and the other threads or did you just drop in on this page and decide to be glib...?


davidji


Jan 5, 2006, 12:12 AM
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In reply to:
The Silver brazed connections on Aliens are made by experienced ,skilled people who take great care in the quality of the braze. The accusations being made on this site are quite serious .
An examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims made regarding alleged failure of the brazed connection. Without an actual report by a lab we will assume this is a staged hoax.
The cable on a 1.5 orange alien will hold over 3500 pounds, far more force than a falling climber could ever generate. When tested on a machine the cable will break ,not pull out of the cable eye.
David Waggoner at CCH
Thanks for replying here David.

Of course it's entirely possible it is a hoax. It isn't obvious that any of us knows the OP or his partner who list only each others as partners.

OTOH, you seem to be dismissing the possibility that the device was defective. Not only is it possible for anyone to build defective product, it's nearly impossible to prevent that. Furthermore, even with stringent quality control it's nearly impossible to keep from shipping at least some defective product. With lax quality control, you're likely to ship more.

We've seen enough reports lately of Aliens with defects to question CCH's quality control. And these have come from a variety of users, including people who are known in our community.

I would have expected CCH to want to device to analyze, but at this point I also would prefer to hear what an independent lab has to say.


epic_ed


Jan 5, 2006, 12:13 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I think I'ts been shown in the discussion on this site that the person making these accusations had an alterier(sp?) motive.

Josh where - exactly - in this thread has it been shown that the original poster had any ulterior motives whatsoever? So far they have been completely forthright in attempting to present this problem and get it resolved. There is no basis whatsoever for your statement above...

Josh, I've gotta agree -- no one has established that the OP has any bone to pick with CCH. Aside from the cam head failure problem is the axle/lobe defect with the Orange Aliens which CCH readily admits was a production issue. How many of them are out there is shops right now ready for sale? Where is the accountability? That's really all we're asking for.

Ed


ctclimbz


Jan 5, 2006, 12:17 AM
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The 'official' response to these allegations is pathetic and inadequate. End of story. I had reserved judgment while reading these threads as I, like so many, dig my aliens. After that response, though, the way forward is clear. My money will be spent elsewhere.


CCH - You folks should be ashamed. Very, very sad. Address the issue, don't attack the messanger.


Edit: I will be bringing this issue to the attention of the folks at the local gear shops. Words online may be worth little, but CCH might be a little more attentive if their bottom line suffers.


crimpstrength


Jan 5, 2006, 12:18 AM
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epic_ed:
In reply to:
How many of them are out there is shops right now ready for sale?

none

i just got back from north conway nh and had a great chat with the folks in ime. They expressed extreme dissapointment in their dealing with cch. I am not taking sides, just telling my story from talking to people who know what's up.


roy_hinkley_jr


Jan 5, 2006, 12:19 AM
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Oooh, a good ol' fashion Internet lynching. Proof once more why companies should NEVER respond to BS on lame forums.

Dave, your best bet is to shut up, deal with the situation offline, and never waste time on this site. Good luck!


fear


Jan 5, 2006, 12:23 AM
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Dave,

It might very well be a hoax but I've got a lot of Aliens myself that I'd hate to see become Christmas tree ornaments because of it.

So to what lab should he send this piece? Names/numbers, etc... As most of us have not ordered metallurgical tests, what specifically should he request? Will you agree to pay for the tests? Hell, you have enough people here that would chip in, myself included.

Does anyone know if CCH at least pull tests each cam to a few hundred pounds?

-Fear


md3


Jan 5, 2006, 12:31 AM
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I understand and agree with reserving judgment until the piece is analyzed, but why would you assume it’s a hoax? That is a serious allegation. If it were true the responsible party could face a civil suit if you suffered business losses as a result of their actions and perhaps criminal charges in some places. What motivation would the orange unit poster have for a hoax? They are not, apparently, claiming any injury or loss other than the cost of a new cam, so they are not trying to set CCH up for a law suit. The climber who fell on the orange unit has a picture of himself showing his face in his profile and he has provided his location and his first name – all of which would be inadvisable if he was trying to create a “hoax” for personal entertainment or out of some anti-CCH vendetta.

Flamer wrote:
In reply to:
I think I'ts been shown in the discussion on this site that the person making these accusations had an alterier(sp?) motive.

How was an ulterior motive demonstrated? Seriously, faking gear failure in order to harm someone’s business would be despicable. Don’t suggest it without providing a detailed explanation.


motomagik


Jan 5, 2006, 12:39 AM
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A hoax? And excuse me "Flamer" what gives you the right to claim that this person had an alterior motive!!!! What is wrong with you people? Everyone who I know that owns Aliens loves them, including myself.
What makes you think that someone would stage this sort of thing? Risk their life in a fall and ruin their precious Alien to play a game with someone? To pick a fight with a tiny company? PLEASE!


thrutch


Jan 5, 2006, 12:52 AM
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as i said b4 cch is junk and their response proves so. sack up and admit maybe you are wrong, there is nothing wrong with this. just like the splitter cams this site tried to push a few years back, they were/are junk and the owner/design got all butt hurt. ignorance is bliss.

cch is junk.


davidji


Jan 5, 2006, 1:03 AM
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In reply to:
What makes you think that someone would stage this sort of thing? Risk their life in a fall and ruin their precious Alien to play a game with someone? To pick a fight with a tiny company? PLEASE!
I don't think this is a hoax, although we can't rule it out. I think it was a real failure, and I'm glad no one was injured.

Aliens are the preferred small cam. A hoax designed to instill Fear Uncertainty and Doubt (FUD) could change that. OTOH so could the results of shipping too many defective cams.


ksolem


Jan 5, 2006, 1:05 AM
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I never liked aliens much. The manufacture always seemed a bit cluged. Of course when I voiced my opinion before this whole situation many people (mosly nubies) would call me a nut. For me this is just another case which proves I should trust my instincts.


davidji


Jan 5, 2006, 1:09 AM
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You should talk to Black Diamond....their attitude is much worse, on very similiar subjects.
Dunno about them lately, but when Chris Harmston was their QA manager, they seemed responsive. He was an active participant in the online community (rec.climbing then) and provided lots of info on gear testing and gear failure.


Partner tattooed_climber


Jan 5, 2006, 1:21 AM
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david better make another response cus everyone is assuming he/cch are ignorant #&*(#%(@*%^(*%@%@'s....

fuck, cus of all the shit lately (and due to the latest, cam fucked up ness) i'm holding back on buying two sets of aliens for my aid rack...thats some serious cash for me....i'm lookin at zeros and offset friends now

as a steel fab/welder/fitter, i know where david is sort of coming from...Brazing is FUCKING STRONG, ....look at the surface area involved, though brazing isn't a weld...still is very unlikely for a braze to break before the cable....and he's too proud/confident to say there is/was any unknown bosched brazings....after all, look at it from HIS point of view, THIS IS THE FUCKING INTERNET!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BULLSHIT DOES EXIST ON THE INTERNET...and a photo isn't 100% proof....taking the fucked up cam to a metallologist is....AS WELL, david didn't say if he's talked/mailed the dude(or dudes) with the fuckedup cams yet AND he didn't specify that the DUDE should take it to a lab himself or if CCH will, he was speaking in general terms...


NOW EVERYONE, smoke some ganja and calm down abit....


codhands


Jan 5, 2006, 1:21 AM
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David, you're a ding-dong.


dingus


Jan 5, 2006, 1:41 AM
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My how things would be different if he said,

'never happened before. Please send us the cam ASAP, we'll investigate and report our findings.'

If it was a hoax, cam never shows up.

If its for real, CCH gets a chance to deal with it.

When I seel guys like Malcom engage, share info, and by gawd stick up for CCH too while he's at it, and used to see Chris Harmston do the same for BD, I realize how much opportunity other manufacturers are missing out on; community service, customer support, fostering good will.

I don't think it is wise at all for a vendor to be taking the 'dismissive' approach.

DMT


davidji


Jan 5, 2006, 1:45 AM
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In reply to:
When I seel guys like Malcom engage, share info, and by gawd stick up for CCH too while he's at it, and used to see Chris Harmston do the same for BD, I realize how much opportunity other manufacturers are missing out on; community service, customer support, fostering good will.
Those two guys came to mind for me too when reading the CCH response.


iamcolinslack


Jan 5, 2006, 1:55 AM
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love my tcus! 8^)


kpalsson


Jan 5, 2006, 1:57 AM
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What's chris doing these days? I miss him. When chris was around, if you had questions, chris answered them. And if it was novel, he ran tests, and then answered them. BD these days seems a lot more handsoff.


davidji


Jan 5, 2006, 2:06 AM
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In reply to:
What's chris doing these days? I miss him. When chris was around, if you had questions, chris answered them. And if it was novel, he ran tests, and then answered them. BD these days seems a lot more handsoff.
When he left BD in 2001, he didn't say what he'd be doing, although I think it was mentioned later. He did say BD would keep monitoring rec.climbing. If anyone from Black Diamond posted after I sure don't recall. Likely they still watch or at least search rockclimbing.com and supertopo from time to time.


woutdoor


Jan 5, 2006, 2:17 AM
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FLAMER Wrote
In reply to:
( had an ulterior(sp?) motive.

In my personal dealings with CCH they have been extremely easy to deal with and respectful/appreciative of their customer base.
I, for one ,will continue to use the quality product that CCH provides. )
b]you must have a ulterior motive. Because everyone knows CCH is slow and hard to deal with.


dynosore


Jan 5, 2006, 2:49 AM
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I bought my first couple aliens from tradrack just a few weeks ago and was looking forward to using them. I have some serious questions now, and won't be buying anymore until this is resolved and the resolution is made known. Hit em in the pocketbook.

joe climber


clippedclimbing


Jan 5, 2006, 3:44 AM
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I gotta say, you folks are a bunch of whining sniveling gerbals. CCH does have the utmost intention to manufacture very safe gear. It is not that Dave does not care, he is just not big city/corporately polished. His head is in making you your beloved aliens, not fighting hypotheticals on the internet.


cortezmachine


Jan 5, 2006, 3:47 AM
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just a quick observation...


if the cable should break before it pops out of the eye then how did he get it out, and why didnt his cable break when (if its a hoax) he was pulling it out?


edit:

another thing, the axle and eye look to be unscathed, how would he have pulled the cable out without damaging anything ? only way i can think of is if he heated it with a torch. but even then there would be scorch marks


dingus


Jan 5, 2006, 3:53 AM
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In reply to:
I gotta say, you folks are a bunch of whining sniveling gerbals. CCH does have the utmost intention to manufacture very safe gear. It is not that Dave does not care, he is just not big city/corporately polished. His head is in making you your beloved aliens, not fighting hypotheticals on the internet.

Good thing he's got you to carry his water for him.

But I'm afraid I'll have to write you off as a hoax.

DMT


dudemanbu


Jan 5, 2006, 5:05 AM
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I rate CCH's reply a T-6.

:wtf:


skinner


Jan 5, 2006, 5:59 AM
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In reply to:
My how things would be different if he said,

'never happened before. Please send us the cam ASAP, we'll investigate and report our findings.'

If it was a hoax, cam never shows up.

If its for real, CCH gets a chance to deal with it.

When I seel guys like Malcom engage, share info, and by gawd stick up for CCH too while he's at it, and used to see Chris Harmston do the same for BD, I realize how much opportunity other manufacturers are missing out on; community service, customer support, fostering good will.

I don't think it is wise at all for a vendor to be taking the 'dismissive' approach.

DMT

dingus said it best, he screwed up an opportunity here.

If you have actually READ the thread(s), you will see that the majority of posters are (were) die hard alien fans and not a lynch mob. We own and trust our lives to aliens, so yes.. we are looking for answers.
(I.. like ed, have 36)

Even a *pinch* of concern.. would have gone a long way with all of us I am sure.
He could of at least said that he is glad everyone was OK ? :shock:

:roll: *shaking head*


Partner csgambill


Jan 5, 2006, 7:01 AM
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Alright, from the perspective of a business owner CCH's response was not adequate relative to the severity of the issue. Many of us climbers, myself included, trust our lives with CCH's product. As we all know our gear is what physically separates us from life and death in a sport that is inherently dangerous. We want to know that we are purchasing a product that will eliminate as much of that inherent risk as possible. Basically, we want a product that will function as it is intended. Dave, you stated that the claims on this site leveled against your company are serious. You talk the talk, now walk the walk and show your customers that their lives matter to you. This situation has either the potential to be disastrous for your company, or if handled properly could result in an even greater windfall for you have already seen. CCH has many loyal customers who would stand fast through a manufacturing defect, so long as CCH displays the proper attitude and action. Your customers' concerns should be your concerns, and right now your customers have some serious concerns which you need to address to their satisfaction. I know that it is impossible to satisfy all the people all the time, but from the perspective of a fellow business owner I'll make a few suggestions in quelling the concerns of your customers with minimal financial hindrance to CCH.

Don't state that you believe this to be a hoax . It sounds far too much like you're trying to sweep the issue under the proverbial rug. I'm sure that if you have not already done so you are trying to identify if there is a problem to begin with, but you must let your customers know you're doing some internal auditing of your brazing procedures. I'm extremely good at my job, but even I make mistakes, your brazers are human and will also make an occasional mistake. If there is a problem figure out a solution that will improve the situation. The solution could be a very simple procedural change that barely effects anyone but results in massive improvements to your quality control. Finally, inform your consumers that you have investigated the problem and communicate the results of your findings with them.

I suggest that CCH offer to reimburse the owner of the cam in question for the cost of examination by a certified metallurgical lab. The lab should then post the results of their findings on the web in .pdf format on their letterhead. I can guarantee the cost of this examination will be far less than the revenue you stand to loose from mishandling the situation. If handled properly this situation could be a great marketing device, regardless of the results of the lab exam, in that it's a superb opportunity to let your customers know CCH is dedicated to making a quality product that will perform as intended.

Dave, you have a product that has, over the years, gained a very loyal base of supporters, but due to the speed at which information travels, via this site, word of mouth etc., you're running the risk of losing that base of support. You do have some strong competition. I hope for my own sake and the sake of other Alien users out there that CCH is producing a quality product. Regardless of whether or not this is a "hoax" you cannot treat it as such since the majority of people who know about this alleged defect do not believe it to be a hoax. If you mishandle this situation, this New Year may not be very happy for you.

-Chris

- I don't intend this post as a sales pitch, but if you're interested in my consulting services, PM me and we can discuss further.


horseonwheels


Jan 5, 2006, 8:55 AM
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csgambill, you must be in marketing, and in a marketing perspective, what Dave said is about as ill-advised as it comes.

After thinking about buying another set of small cams, and originally deciding on them being Aliens based on previoius use of others', I've all but completely rejected Aliens at this point. We're not buying toilet paper here!!! If I make a poor decision there I might end up with an itchy asshole, which as bad as that is, I'm not going to die.

When a company (CCH) that makes life-saving equipment shows a complete lack of concern and interest in all customer complaints, not only would I look to CCH's competition, but I would take pleasure in seeing them lose business.

I like to buy products from companies that I respect and respect me as a customer. Not from morons that blame their customers for complaints, when they have had a recent history of product issues.

That said, I would still like to buy a set of Aliens, but that isn't going to happen unless the company takes a different attitude, fully stands behind their product, is humble enough to admit that they can potentially make mistakes, and address all concerns legitimately.


healyje


Jan 5, 2006, 10:17 AM
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I'd like to reiterate that we are a small sport and need all the brave innovative souls we can get making cool gear. We particularly don't need another company going the down tube the way Chouinard did. Dave and CCH add to the diversity of gear that's available to us and at this point no one is talking about legal action - I think we as community just want to see a more consistent, rational, reasoned, and empathetic response to quality and service issues from CCH then we've seen of late. This CCH response from Dave is not that and again I hope he sees fit to reconsider his approach to both this customer and incident, but also to what are obvious and manifest issues with quality and service at CCH.

Dave,you have a lot of very loyal folks out here rooting for you and folks that want to buy more of your product (and hell, I personally paid a high premium for both sets of my hybrids). We're your customers, it might just be worth stepping back and considering treating us as well as most of us would like to continue treating you...


reg


Jan 5, 2006, 2:11 PM
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W0W! what an inconsiderate response from cch! even if this is a hoax - which i don't believe it is - cch has stuck their foot in it. i 've read elsewhere on this site that some folks believe that companies making climbing gear are more concerned about ethics than money. i never believed that and cch's response proves it to me. also this statement by clippedclimber:
"It is not that Dave does not care, he is just not big city/corporately polished. His head is in making you your beloved aliens, not fighting hypotheticals on the internet"
does not ring true in that davids response is that of a slick corporate dude not that of a caring manufacturer/climbers friend.


reg


Jan 5, 2006, 2:14 PM
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W0W! what an inconsiderate response from cch! even if this is a hoax - which i don't believe it is - cch has stuck their foot in it. i 've read elsewhere on this site that some folks believe that companies making climbing gear are more concerned about ethics than money. i never believed that and cch's response proves it to me. also this statement by clippedclimber:
"It is not that Dave does not care, he is just not big city/corporately polished. His head is in making you your beloved aliens, not fighting hypotheticals on the internet"
does not ring true in that davids response is that of a slick corporate dude not that of a caring manufacturer/climbers friend.


reg


Jan 5, 2006, 2:15 PM
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00PS! sorry bout posting twice! :oops:


Partner happiegrrrl


Jan 5, 2006, 2:20 PM
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I would like to ask the person with the cam problem - has he yet made telephone contact with CCH? Not has CCH called him - hs HE made contact?

It doesn't seem to me that CCH has an "RC.com representative who is monitoring this and the other thread and reporting back to HQ..... Whether any of us think they should, whether "we would if it were our business," is not relative.

I think that it is possible that the OP might have had a *better experience* if he had gotten on the phone and spoke directly. And there is still that opportunity. Again - it doesn't MATTER if any of us thinks the onus for customer service has now shifted to CCH. Unless, of course, what we really are interested in in the blather of an internet forum.....

What matters, I think anyway, is to come to a conclusion on the mechanical/design/manufacturing questions that have ben introduced, and that isn't going to happen over the internet.

I think the OP has to take some initiative on this one. Call Dave and speak to him.

I know that from my own business crap that email, though handy, can casue communciation problems. You'd think that not to be the case, but my experience tells me otherwise.


dingus


Jan 5, 2006, 2:59 PM
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In reply to:
It doesn't seem to me that CCH has an "RC.com representative who is monitoring this and the other thread and reporting back to HQ..... Whether any of us think they should, whether "we would if it were our business," is not relative.

Its entirely relevant when we walk into REI to make a cam purchase. This is a customer base. If a vendor wants to make a dismissive statement and then walk away, that is their right (and at least they're being consistent).

But to say that dismissal is not relevant? Relevancy will be reflected in the 2006 year end report I suspect.

DMT


dingus


Jan 5, 2006, 3:03 PM
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In reply to:
It doesn't seem to me that CCH has an "RC.com representative who is monitoring this and the other thread and reporting back to HQ..... Whether any of us think they should, whether "we would if it were our business," is not relative.

Its entirely relevant when we walk into REI to make a cam purchase. This is a customer base. If a vendor wants to make a dismissive statement and then walk away, that is their right (and at least they're being consistent).

But to say that dismissal is not relevant? Relevancy will be reflected in the 2006 year end report I suspect.

DMT

post edit - I reread your comment and noted where you said 'relative' not relevant. I'm not sure what you mean by relative so if I misunderstood I apologize (I tried to delete it but the U/I won't let me) Cheers


shakylegs


Jan 5, 2006, 3:03 PM
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^^He did contact CCH.


Partner csgambill


Jan 5, 2006, 3:23 PM
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I've noticed that several people have contacted CCH. I'm curious to hear the results of your conversations. Please post! Thanks!

Also, since we're on the topic of hoaxes, can we validate that cchaliens actually represents CCH?


angelaa


Jan 5, 2006, 3:40 PM
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In reply to:
Also, since we're on the topic of hoaxes, can we validate that cchaliens actually represents CCH?

I too wondered the same thing!!

I am a true lover of the alien, and CCHAliens post was no better than a *poke in the eye with a sharp stick* for all of us Alien loyalist!

Over the years I have praised the Alien at every chance, and have told everyone who will listen to purchase them.
After the supposed CCH post to this thread, I have to hold back. I need to find out what is going on with this situation - good or bad - before I can praise, suggest or even purchase more aliens myself (which I had plans on doing).

If CCH doesn't follow up with this issue (and past issues) off and online they will loose a LOT more than just the business of the 3+ posters on this board who have already said they are looking at different small cams.

They will lose the loyalists that most of us seem to have been. Hopefully CCH understands that because they are such a small company, climbers that use and love their products ARE there Marketing and PR departments.

Please CCH do something and do it quick . . . I don't ever want to have give up my Aliens because I cannot trust them . . . . :(


A~


fear


Jan 5, 2006, 3:51 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Also, since we're on the topic of hoaxes, can we validate that cchaliens actually represents CCH?

....
If CCH doesn't follow up with this issue (and past issues) off and online they will loose a LOT more than just the business of the 3+ posters on this board who have already said they are looking at different small cams.
....

A~

Yeah, close to 25,000 views and counting on these two threads....

At least take a swing at salvaging your rep CCH! Disprove this "hoax". Comon guys....

-Fear


rocamosca


Jan 5, 2006, 4:11 PM
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As far as this situation goes, hoax or not I won't be buying any aliens anytime soon. CCH's apparent lack of interest really bothers me. Thus far they haven't made any efforts I can see to determine whether it is a hoax or not, they havent made any efforts to alleviate customer concerns which should have been top priority IMO, they haevn't done anything except deny any responsibility.

I hope, for their sake, they are doing some investigating in the background, hopefully they are trying to contact the fellow with the broken orange and get that from him. I hope they are doing something, cause I've no interest in purchasing anything from the future. If they give some indication over the coming weeks that they actually care about their customers and our lives then maybe they can win me back.

Its not too late yet CCH, but time is passing and we need to see some kind of response, and no I don't think the OP in this thread is the kind of response were looking for.


roy_hinkley_jr


Jan 5, 2006, 4:19 PM
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In reply to:
As far as this situation goes, hoax or not I won't be buying any aliens anytime soon.

And fourtunately you'll soon be able to purchase the much more expensive yet less than revolutionary C3's soon. Coincidence? You decide.


wjca


Jan 5, 2006, 4:21 PM
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Copied from the other thread in case CCH guy is only following this one:

You want to know how to get CCH to respond and react? Don't complain to CCH, but instead contact their big customers: REI, Mountain Gear, etc. Once these huge retailers smell a potential product defect, they will get a reaction out of CCH. My bet is that, CCH, being a small company, has gotten into bed with these monster retailers and a significant percent of their product goes to satisfy these supply contracts. If those contracts are threatened, CCH will respond. If they don't and the retailers cancel the supply contracts, CCH will fold.

By the way, the reason REI, Mountain Gear, etc. will find such an interest has its roots in product liability law. Generally, anyone (manufacturer, wholesaler, retailer) who sells a defective product is jointly and severally liable for damage suffered as a result of said defect. In other words, if someone takes a fall (and gets injured or worse) on an alien and the cam blows because of a defect, CCH and REI are both equally liable. And REI has the deeper pockets from which a plaintiff could seek damages. Hence, such a vested interest in getting to the root of the problem. I gurantee you that REI does not want to be in the business of selling defective climbing gear.

Chris


billcoe_


Jan 5, 2006, 4:25 PM
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Like everybody, I thought that was a poor response from the company. It sounds like he's basically saying "hoax, not my problem" and walking away. Pretty weak. (That is possible, but appears highly unlikely in this case) I can understand wanting to believe your stuff is the best in the world, but I would have thought a response more along the lines of "I hope this isn't a hoax or a prank, we pride ourselves on the work we do and the products we make and take this very seriously. We will be looking into this immediately to find the facts". That kind of thing would have been more appropriate than "Hoax, not my problem".

My offsets came in from MGear today. I find myself looking and pulling carefully.

It seems clear that CCH does not have the skills or mfg knowledge which we commonly assume companies to have. I suspect that if you were to ask them what 6 sigma is, they would not know what it was, although they may have heard of it because of the advertising that BD does in that they have initiated that quality system, which is a process to 99.99999% eliminate defects. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Six_Sigma

So CCH craftsmen may be the best in the world at brazing, but if somebody doesn't clean or flux the connection, or something gets tossed in the wrong bin, then what can you say.

It seems it's about process's and quality methodology. CCH has obviously not spent the resources (time and or money) to develop them. I don't think we can effect change in that regards by complaining to them.

I suspect it will all workout at some point, however it might workout for us like HB, where although some lawsuit takes them down, a solid company like Metlious, Like DMM, like BD, or Like Trango: buys the mfg rights.

I would urge the CCH folks to think these issues over.

Unlike some, I will continue to use my Aliens (and alien offsets)....abiet more carefully.


clayman


Jan 5, 2006, 4:26 PM
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Dave, you should revisit this thread

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...&topic_view=&start=0

we love Aliens and want to support you, and on many occasions have come to your defense (see above thread) in the face of bogus or unsubstantiated claims of poor quality or failure. But your response to this serious and credible situation is unfortunate and disappointing, in light of how much support we've given you in the past. This is in no way a threat, but the manner in which this get handles will certainly be a factor in deciding whether Aliens stay on my rack (and whether I continue to recommend them to others building a rack). cheers

cl

Damn, I'm glad this is happening during the winter!


bobruef


Jan 5, 2006, 4:28 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
As far as this situation goes, hoax or not I won't be buying any aliens anytime soon.

And fourtunately you'll soon be able to purchase the much more expensive yet less than revolutionary C3's soon. Coincidence? You decide.

I'll definately agree that this incident is well timed from Black Daimond's prospective, but if it were a hoax, it was an ingeniously excecuted one.

But the fact that this isn't the first time seems to indicate otherwise.

http://static.flickr.com/...67420_e602e34e99.jpg


mjroche


Jan 5, 2006, 4:31 PM
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WJCA is right. If REI Mgear and others get wind of this thread, and of CCH's response to the allegations and photos of an apparently defective product, it will (or at least) should cause CCH to take a more serious look at the issues. And, assuming the "response" by CCH is truly from CCH, the "we think it's a staged hoax" comment on this thread is something any decent attorney will use to gut CCH in court. That comment is so outrageous, I find it hard to believe it is legitimate. It strikes me as much more likely that CCH would respond directly to the person whose cam failed directly, and not on a website known for lots of trolling.


reg


Jan 5, 2006, 4:55 PM
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maybe: nvrsmr14, insainio & chhaliens ( david W.) are all in on the hoax to dis chh! well, i will say that if that be the case ( and i don't believe it to be ) i would never again buy anything from BD. the hoax angle is :lol:


texplorer


Jan 5, 2006, 5:03 PM
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Consensus is that CCH is a terrible company and their cams are not to be trusted.

Coincidentally, I am going to do a special big wall testing regimen on aliens this summer. I will be performing lifetime durability test on aliens. If you would like to contribute to this testing I am willing to buy your aliens for 5 dollars a cam. I will use them until failure or retire them at the 30 year point in the study. I will send results to CCH at the end of the 30 year study.

Pm me to enter your cams into this study.


Partner happiegrrrl


Jan 5, 2006, 5:10 PM
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^^He did contact CCH.

Shaky - I do NOT see anywhere, a spot where Insainio posts that he called and spoke with ANYONE at CCH. I understand that he sent an email. I said that.

Though one might ASSUME that "got the ball rolling"......IT MAY NOT BE SO!

Insainio - I don't think it is too much too ask, since these threads have generated quite a bit of intrigue, that you take some more effort from your day. And CALL and SPEAK with Dave at CCH.

I understand that people might think I am off the mark here. I don't really care. Let's go with the "McDonald's coffee scenario"(loosely). Had the person who got burnt with the coffe posted the incident on a "We Love Fast Food Website".....in what manner would McDonald's reply? Even if someone called the CEO of McDonalds and said "Hey! there's a post over on....." (Yes - I KNOW this is *not the same thing.*"

Insainio says "the ball's in their court" but I disagree. The ball is STILL in his court, unless he doensn't care to address the situation any further. Why CCH didn't respond to his email - I don't know. I can make guesses, but it's conjecture.

Instead of all this vague communication....why doesn't he GO THROUGH THE EFFORT of calling CCH?

If he did - I absolutely apologize. I do not see that statement made in any of his posts, but I admit, I am rushed right now and rc.com sometimes loads very crappily on my compuetr, thus straining my patience with my ability to research posts.


veganboyjosh


Jan 5, 2006, 5:14 PM
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maybe: nvrsmr14, insainio & chhaliens ( david W.) are all in on the hoax to dis chh! well, i will say that if that be the case ( and i don't believe it to be ) i would never again buy anything from BD. the hoax angle is :lol:

cchaliens has two posts, total.

the first being almost a year ago, when there was another thread about crappy aliens. if it's a bd hoax, it's almost a year in the making.


ronolsen


Jan 5, 2006, 5:21 PM
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Phoning CCH is probably the best bet; here is contact info:

Colorado Custom Hardware
115 East Lyons Street, Laramie, WY 82072
(307) 721-9385

I emailed them once about sending in an Alien for repair and never got a response.

-- Ron


clayman


Jan 5, 2006, 5:22 PM
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[
I understand that people might think I am off the mark here. I don't really care. Let's go with the "McDonald's coffee scenario"(loosely). Had the person who got burnt with the coffe posted the incident on a "We Love Fast Food Website".....in what manner would McDonald's reply? Even if someone called the CEO of McDonalds and said "Hey! there's a post over on....." (Yes - I KNOW this is *not the same thing.*"

If it's not the same thing, then why use it in your argument? At any rate, I do agree that the OP (if he hasn't already) should (repeatedly)call CCH. Whenever I have course to contact a company I always call first, I mean damn, I want to talk to a person! things get handled better (& quicker) that way, than with communicating via email (too much is lost this way, especially on something of great importance).

cl


sixleggedinsect


Jan 5, 2006, 5:34 PM
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Whenever I have course to contact a company I always call first, I mean damn, I want to talk to a person! things get handled better (& quicker) that way, than with communicating via email (too much is lost this way, especially on something of great importance).

cch has a track record on the phone similar to a lot of bad-service-companies via email. all calling them does, in my experience, is make you feel angrier that they never respond than if you'd emailed them. da*ned if you do..

as was posted on the other thread, can someone in the know merge these two? there is a lot of redundant posting, and quite a few posts where people get upset because they haven't read the other thread and think someone is jumping to conclusions, etc.

the other thread is called 'orange alien cch" or something similar, if anyone hasnt found it yet.


davidji


Jan 5, 2006, 5:43 PM
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cchaliens has two posts, total.

the first being almost a year ago, when there was another thread about crappy aliens. if it's a bd hoax, it's almost a year in the making.
Good point. I looked at his other thread and the discussion it referred to.

Apparently the same thing happened to quietmonk at the beginning of 2005.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/....php?p=991387#991387

Users were pretty hostile to quietmonk then. I think they've since been deprogrammed...


Partner happiegrrrl


Jan 5, 2006, 5:48 PM
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In reply to:
Let's go with the "McDonald's coffee scenario"(loosely). Blaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh, as only Halppigrrrl can do....." (Yes - I KNOW this is *not the same thing.*"

If it's not the same thing, then why use it in your argument? ...cl

I felt it was close enough to allow those with an intermediate level of reading comprehension skills to make a connection. That was why I wrote it. I realize not everyone has that competent abiltity, and apologize to anyone who "didn't get it."

As well, I should have added a bit about "if the person emailed mcdonalds.com(don't know it that is correct addy...it's for demonstrational purposes only) directly, he probably would have gotten an auto-generated response."

Anywa - again, I ask Insanio to make the call and contact. I think it behooves him to do so, at this point. And I see he hasn't been in on this thread, so I think, with a click of the mouse, I'll head over and tap him on the virtual shoulder.....


shakylegs


Jan 5, 2006, 5:52 PM
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Speaking of reading comprehension, as I pointed out, he did contact CCH.
What part are you not comprehending?


boku


Jan 5, 2006, 6:02 PM
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Speaking of reading comprehension, as I pointed out, he did contact CCH.
What part are you not comprehending?

At issue is the difference between calling and emailing CCH. Happiegrrrl seems to think that calling is more direct and immediate than email; her query was specifically whether insaine _called_ CCH, and specifically not whether he contacted them by other means.

Adopting a snarky 'tude about it contributes nothing to this exchange.


Partner happiegrrrl


Jan 5, 2006, 6:07 PM
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...and you know I can, at times, wear the Miss Snarky banner and crown quite regally, Shaky, when i sense the pageant is about to begin - don't tempt me to don my regalia!!!

Thank you boku


pdx_climber


Jan 5, 2006, 6:11 PM
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Consensus is that CCH is a terrible company and their cams are not to be trusted.
You need to look up the definition of the word "consensus".


tradgal


Jan 5, 2006, 6:14 PM
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The squeaky wheel gets the oil. And, the telephone is a hell of a lot squeakier than email. Insainio, if you could be more proactive by calling CCH, that would help out a lot! Thanks.

Analogies seem to be wasted on this topic for whatever reason.

Disappointing response from CCH, though I would guess it was fueled by not only Dave, but his attorney as well. I am sure he had to maintain some type of professionalism and obscurity in his response to protect CCH and allow for further investigation.


dynosore


Jan 5, 2006, 6:18 PM
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Based on the cam lobe drilling problem and now this, I take it that the qwalitee control program at CCH is non existent. That puts serious doubts into my mind about the product they are putting out. If the poster here really is Dave @CCH, his attitude says it all. "each one is brazed by experienced people..". I don't care if it was brazed by Mother Theresa, if they don't pull test em to some reasonable force before they go out the door, they are negligent IMO and get no more of my $$$. If Joe Brazer or Lana Lobedriller has a bad day, there needs to be measures in place to catch it! Based on the pictures of the fall that decapitated the orange alien, not that much force was needed to do the deed. :shock:


dynosore


Jan 5, 2006, 6:21 PM
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Based on the cam lobe drilling problem and now this, I take it that the qwalitee control program at CCH is non existent. That puts serious doubts into my mind about the product they are putting out. If the poster here really is Dave @CCH, his attitude says it all. "each one is brazed by experienced people..". I don't care if it was brazed by Mother Theresa, if they don't pull test em to some reasonable force before they go out the door, they are negligent IMO and get no more of my $$$. If Joe Brazer or Lana Lobedriller has a bad day, there needs to be measures in place to catch it! Based on the pictures of the fall that decapitated the orange alien, not that much force was needed to do the deed. :shock:


veganboyjosh


Jan 5, 2006, 6:22 PM
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to protect CCH and allow for further investigation.

he mentioned no such investigating, which i think is what the uproar is about mostly.


shakylegs


Jan 5, 2006, 6:23 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Speaking of reading comprehension, as I pointed out, he did contact CCH.
What part are you not comprehending?

At issue is the difference between calling and emailing CCH. Happiegrrrl seems to think that calling is more direct and immediate than email; her query was specifically whether insaine _called_ CCH, and specifically not whether he contacted them by other means.

Adopting a snarky 'tude about it contributes nothing to this exchange.

Sigh, aren't you the kee-nigget in shining armor? Read the following:
In reply to:
Actually, I did e-mail CCH before posting this. I e-mailed instead of called because 1. they were closed and 2. I had pictures which could better explain what happened than I could over the phone. I then wanted to post this to warn other climbers.

And as of yet, they have not responded to my e-mail.

Kevin

So, while it's all sweet and dandy to get on a high horse and determine how the OP in the original thread should post, read the fucking post in question. Because I highly doubt he needs a "virtual tap on the shoulder," no matter how condescending that may be.


clayman


Jan 5, 2006, 6:24 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Let's go with the "McDonald's coffee scenario"(loosely). Blaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh, as only Halppigrrrl can do....." (Yes - I KNOW this is *not the same thing.*"

If it's not the same thing, then why use it in your argument? ...cl

I felt it was close enough to allow those with an intermediate level of reading comprehension skills to make a connection. That was why I wrote it. I realize not everyone has that competent abiltity, and apologize to anyone who "didn't get it."

So'K, how're you supposed to know that I'm well below the intermediate level? :D


Partner happiegrrrl


Jan 5, 2006, 6:31 PM
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Shaky, I think that what we have hear is a miscommunication.....

YES, I am aware he emailed, and though I didn't cut and paste the quote, and yes, I am aware he emailed "because of...."

I am not on a high horse. More like trotting the lead pony up alongside the jockey on the racer, with a riding crop in hand and a suggestion of "Here, sir. You might want this."

My use of the phrase "virtual tap on the shoulder" was not meant to be condescending. Though I can see it has succeeded rather well in annoying you! Ahhh, the Laws of Unintentional Consequences....

Signed,

Miss Snarky



(and I promise I will stop now, as I understand I am not positively contributing to the thread by going in this direction. So, in hopes that I may at least walk away with the Miss Congeniality title - Shakey, you may have the last word, if you care to.)


bobruef


Jan 5, 2006, 6:39 PM
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In reply to:
Shaky, I think that what we have hear is a miscommunication.....

YES, I am aware he emailed, and though I didn't cut and paste the quote, and yes, I am aware he emailed "because of...."

I am not on a high horse. More like trotting the lead pony up alongside the jockey on the racer, with a riding crop in hand and a suggestion of "Here, sir. You might want this."

My use of the phrase "virtual tap on the shoulder" was not meant to be condescending. Though I can see it has succeeded rather well in annoying you! Ahhh, the Laws of Unintentional Consequences....

Signed,

Miss Snarky



(and I promise I will stop now, as I understand I am not positively contributing to the thread by going in this direction. So, in hopes that I may at least walk away with the Miss Congeniality title - Shakey, you may have the last word, if you care to.)

With the merits of phone communication vs. email aside, insano did contact CCH, and based on their response to that thread, they are aware of his attempt to communicate with them.
By this line of reasoning, there is no excuse for their failure to contact him.

Should he call too?

You bet, but it is his prerogative, not his responsibility.

The ball is in their court


mgear_pres


Jan 5, 2006, 6:41 PM
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I've followed this thread for a day and believe that as both a user of Aliens and as a reseller, Mountain Gear should weigh in.

Climbing Gear is "mission critical” and as such any concern about its safety should be taken seriously and resolved quickly. Take the past examples of BD, Metolius and other vendors putting out recalls for products where just a very small number of units were found to have flaws.

We believe a manufacturer should act proactively to ensure the quality of their product. It's certainly better to be safe now, than sorry later.
Though we do not believe the retailer should be responsible for a manufacturer’s quality control, there are instances where we believe it is in the best interest of climbing and our customers to be proactive.

To this end Mountain Gear has sent an orange alien from each batch that we have in stock (1105 and 1205), as well as another alien of each size from any batches we have, for testing. We should have pull test results back early the week of Jan 9th and I commit that we will post our findings here.

We do not have any cams stamped 805 but if you purchased an orange 805 stamped cam from Mountain Gear and would like us to exchange it we would be happy to do so.

Let's try to get this resolved so we can all go back to trusting and using some of our favorite gear.

Paul Fish
President
Mountain Gear, Inc
paulf@mgear.com


bobruef


Jan 5, 2006, 6:41 PM
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by the way, nice analogies happiegrrrl :lol:


mistertyler


Jan 5, 2006, 6:42 PM
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Not that it matters or counts, but my vote is for Insainio to *call* CCH on the phone. A cursory look at their basic website and the fact that CCH's rc.com account only has 2 posts should make it entirely clear to everyone here that they couldn't give two sh!ts about the 1nterweb and would prefer to deal with this issue the traditional way.

Just because most of us are technologically savvy and use the Internet on a daily basis, it doesn't mean that everyone else is, does, or should. Also, as someone else pointed out somewhere in one of these threads, rc.com (and the internet in general) is *not* the place for them to be resolving this issue.


reg


Jan 5, 2006, 6:45 PM
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ok - so that's about all that can be said till insainio speaks with chh and reports back! whew i thought this would go on and on but alas it's over.


murf


Jan 5, 2006, 6:46 PM
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In reply to:
I've followed this thread for a day and believe that as both a user of Aliens and as a reseller, Mountain Gear should weigh in.

Climbing Gear is "mission critical” and as such any concern about its safety should be taken seriously and resolved quickly. Take the past examples of BD, Metolius and other vendors putting out recalls for products where just a very small number of units were found to have flaws.

We believe a manufacturer should act proactively to ensure the quality of their product. It's certainly better to be safe now, than sorry later.
Though we do not believe the retailer should be responsible for a manufacturer’s quality control, there are instances where we believe it is in the best interest of climbing and our customers to be proactive.

To this end Mountain Gear has sent an orange alien from each batch that we have in stock (1105 and 1205), as well as another alien of each size from any batches we have, for testing. We should have pull test results back early the week of Jan 9th and I commit that we will post our findings here.

We do not have any cams stamped 805 but if you purchased an orange 805 stamped cam from Mountain Gear and would like us to exchange it we would be happy to do so.

Let's try to get this resolved so we can all go back to trusting and using some of our favorite gear.

Paul Fish
President
Mountain Gear, Inc
paulf@mgear.com

Fully quoted, fully impressed!!!


epic_ed


Jan 5, 2006, 6:48 PM
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Paul, thanks for stepping up and being proactive. I hope some of the other larger retailers will do the same.

Ed


epic_ed


Jan 5, 2006, 6:51 PM
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OK -- we have two topics going that are covering similar issues. I'd like to keep both open for further commentary since they do have enough difference to merit more discussion.

**For this thread** -- please add you comment there if you have anything to say about how CCH is handling/responding to the situation.

**For the "Orange Alien" thread** -- please keep comments focued on the failure of the cam and the analysis of the failure.

With your help, I think we can keep these two topics seperate and have good discussion on both issues.

Thanks,

Ed


bobruef


Jan 5, 2006, 6:53 PM
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In reply to:
Not that it matters or counts, but my vote is for Insainio to *call* CCH on the phone. A cursory look at their basic website and the fact that CCH's rc.com account only has 2 posts should make it entirely clear to everyone here that they couldn't give two sh!ts about the 1nterweb and would prefer to deal with this issue the traditional way.

A cursory look at their basic website provides their email address under the Contact CCH tab.

It is not insano's obligation to figure out how they prefer to resolve such issues.

Their preference is moot.

He is obligated only to establish contact with them, which he did.


roy_hinkley_jr


Jan 5, 2006, 6:53 PM
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We believe a manufacturer should act proactively to ensure the quality of their product. It's certainly better to be safe now, than sorry later.
Though we do not believe the retailer should be responsible for a manufacturer’s quality control, there are instances where we believe it is in the best interest of climbing and our customers to be proactive.

Pity that the American Alpine Club does *nothing* to help ensure safe gear. It's shameful that there is no organization in the US that works to protect cliimbers.


jt512


Jan 5, 2006, 6:55 PM
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In reply to:
To this end Mountain Gear has sent an orange alien from each batch that we have in stock (1105 and 1205), as well as another alien of each size from any batches we have, for testing. We should have pull test results back early the week of Jan 9th and I commit that we will post our findings here.

I'm not a quality assurance engineer, but it seems to me that if the results come back negative (ie, the pieces tested ok), that no conclusion about the batches can be made, because a sample size of 1 per batch would be insufficient to catch a manufacturing defect that affected only part of the batch.

Clearly, it isn't Mountain Gear's responsibility to canabalize its stock of Aliens for purposes of destructive desting; nevertheless, it seems to me that we have to be aware of the limitations of testing such a small sample size.

Jay


shakylegs


Jan 5, 2006, 6:55 PM
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(and I promise I will stop now, as I understand I am not positively contributing to the thread by going in this direction. So, in hopes that I may at least walk away with the Miss Congeniality title - Shakey, you may have the last word, if you care to.)

My last word? That was a great, intelligent, and intelligible reply on your part.
No hard feelings?


chronicle


Jan 5, 2006, 6:57 PM
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Gold tropy to Paul Fish.

CCH should take lessons on how to represent themselves to the public.


tradgal


Jan 5, 2006, 6:59 PM
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RECAP:

In reply to:
In reply to:
to protect CCH and allow for further investigation.

he mentioned no such investigating, which i think is what the uproar is about mostly.

In the CCH response "examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims", I consider that a form of investigation. Though a concise plan of action has not been determined as of now.

Insaino--while you don't HAVE to call CCH, in terms of the safety of all Alien users and anyone following this thread, please call so that the safety of these devices can be determined as soon as possible.

MGEAR--Very well said!!! Thank you for being proactive in testing these cams. It's too bad you don't have any from the poorly drilled axle batch or the possible "exploding cam" batch which is currently in question.

Happie--Apparently not all analogies are lost on this topic :)


bill413


Jan 5, 2006, 6:59 PM
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In reply to:
Climbing Gear is "mission critical” and as such any concern about its safety should be taken seriously and resolved quickly.
Very well put!

In reply to:
Take the past examples of BD, Metolius and other vendors putting out recalls for products where just a very small number of units were found to have flaws.
I remember the first climbing gear recall I saw, and how impressed I was at the effort the company went to in order to stand behind their product.

Thank you.


Partner csgambill


Jan 5, 2006, 7:22 PM
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Repeat of my post from last night for any who haven't seen it but may have opinions:

Alright, from the perspective of a business owner CCH's response was not adequate relative to the severity of the issue. Many of us climbers, myself included, trust our lives with CCH's product. As we all know our gear is what physically separates us from life and death in a sport that is inherently dangerous. We want to know that we are purchasing a product that will eliminate as much of that inherent risk as possible. Basically, we want a product that will function as it is intended. Dave, you stated that the claims on this site leveled against your company are serious. You talk the talk, now walk the walk and show your customers that their lives matter to you. This situation has either the potential to be disastrous for your company, or if handled properly could result in an even greater windfall for you have already seen. CCH has many loyal customers who would stand fast through a manufacturing defect, so long as CCH displays the proper attitude and action. Your customers' concerns should be your concerns, and right now your customers have some serious concerns which you need to address to their satisfaction. I know that it is impossible to satisfy all the people all the time, but from the perspective of a fellow business owner I'll make a few suggestions in quelling the concerns of your customers with minimal financial hindrance to CCH.

Don't state that you believe this to be a hoax . It sounds far too much like you're trying to sweep the issue under the proverbial rug. I'm sure that if you have not already done so you are trying to identify if there is a problem to begin with, but you must let your customers know you're doing some internal auditing of your brazing procedures. I'm extremely good at my job, but even I make mistakes, your brazers are human and will also make an occasional mistake. If there is a problem figure out a solution that will improve the situation. The solution could be a very simple procedural change that barely effects anyone but results in massive improvements to your quality control. Finally, inform your consumers that you have investigated the problem and communicate the results of your findings with them.

I suggest that CCH offer to reimburse the owner of the cam in question for the cost of examination by a certified metallurgical lab. The lab should then post the results of their findings on the web in .pdf format on their letterhead. I can guarantee the cost of this examination will be far less than the revenue you stand to loose from mishandling the situation. If handled properly this situation could be a great marketing device, regardless of the results of the lab exam, in that it's a superb opportunity to let your customers know CCH is dedicated to making a quality product that will perform as intended.

Dave, you have a product that has, over the years, gained a very loyal base of supporters, but due to the speed at which information travels, via this site, word of mouth etc., you're running the risk of losing that base of support. You do have some strong competition. I hope for my own sake and the sake of other Alien users out there that CCH is producing a quality product. Regardless of whether or not this is a "hoax" you cannot treat it as such since the majority of people who know about this alleged defect do not believe it to be a hoax. If you mishandle this situation, this New Year may not be very happy for you.

-Chris


chossmonkey


Jan 5, 2006, 7:29 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
To this end Mountain Gear has sent an orange alien from each batch that we have in stock (1105 and 1205), as well as another alien of each size from any batches we have, for testing. We should have pull test results back early the week of Jan 9th and I commit that we will post our findings here.

I'm not a quality assurance engineer, but it seems to me that if the results come back negative (ie, the pieces tested ok), that no conclusion about the batches can be made, because a sample size of 1 per batch would be insufficient to catch a manufacturing defect that affected only part of the batch.

Clearly, it isn't Mountain Gear's responsibility to canabalize its stock of Aliens for purposes of destructive desting; nevertheless, it seems to me that we have to be aware of the limitations of testing such a small sample size.

Jay

I would agree.

While it is admirable of MGear to do the testing it really won't prove or disprove anything unless they get really lucky and happen to pick the one bad cam out of 1000.

In house partial load testing by CCH seems like the only way to prevent another occurrence. I would think people would be willing to pay an extra dollar or two to know that the gear they are climbing on has passed a minimum safety test.

There are far to many things that could go wrong when making piece of gear that can't be visually inspected.


davidji


Jan 5, 2006, 7:29 PM
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In reply to:
MGEAR--Very well said!!! Thank you for being proactive in testing these cams. It's too bad you don't have any from the poorly drilled axle batch or the possible "exploding cam" batch which is currently in question.
"exploding cam" batch?

Many of the imporperly drilled orange Aliens seem to be from the same batch.

As for the "exploding cams", that's a different thing altogether. We have two reports of the main cable pulling out of the end cap in a fall, which is a catastrophic failure of the cam. These were with different sizes of Alien.

If these reports are correct, the failure mechanism is apparently a bad braze. We would expect that type of defect to have some random distribution. It's possible there was a bad batch here too, but we have no reason to think so. Even if there was a cluster of bad brazes, you would expect to find some elsewhere as well.

edited to improve the content


ctclimbz


Jan 5, 2006, 7:31 PM
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We believe a manufacturer should act proactively to ensure the quality of their product. It's certainly better to be safe now, than sorry later. Though we do not believe the retailer should be responsible for a manufacturer’s quality control, there are instances where we believe it is in the best interest of climbing and our customers to be proactive.

Let's try to get this resolved so we can all go back to trusting and using some of our favorite gear.

Paul Fish
President
Mountain Gear, Inc
paulf@mgear.com

Hear, hear. THIS is an example of a company that wants to keep customers instead of alien-ating them.


wjca


Jan 5, 2006, 7:35 PM
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The squeaky wheel gets the oil. And, the telephone is a hell of a lot squeakier than email. Insainio, if you could be more proactive by calling CCH, that would help out a lot! Thanks.

Analogies seem to be wasted on this topic for whatever reason.

Disappointing response from CCH, though I would guess it was fueled by not only Dave, but his attorney as well. I am sure he had to maintain some type of professionalism and obscurity in his response to protect CCH and allow for further investigation.

If his response was fueled by an attorney, he needs to retain new counsel. NO attorney is his/her right mind would "okay" CCH's response as it was made.


flamer


Jan 5, 2006, 7:36 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I think I'ts been shown in the discussion on this site that the person making these accusations had an alterier(sp?) motive.

Josh where - exactly - in this thread has it been shown that the original poster had any ulterior motives whatsoever? So far they have been completely forthright in attempting to present this problem and get it resolved. There is no basis whatsoever for your statement above...


Now that this has gone like 7 pages it may be too late to clarify my statement.


When I made it I had not seen the current thread about the current failure....i was refering to the previous thread from awhile back where the poster was a former(and short time) employee who did have ulterior motives....My mistake for not looking through every thread on the site.


josh


wjca


Jan 5, 2006, 7:37 PM
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I've followed this thread for a day and believe that as both a user of Aliens and as a reseller, Mountain Gear should weigh in.

Climbing Gear is "mission critical” and as such any concern about its safety should be taken seriously and resolved quickly. Take the past examples of BD, Metolius and other vendors putting out recalls for products where just a very small number of units were found to have flaws.

We believe a manufacturer should act proactively to ensure the quality of their product. It's certainly better to be safe now, than sorry later.
Though we do not believe the retailer should be responsible for a manufacturer’s quality control, there are instances where we believe it is in the best interest of climbing and our customers to be proactive.

To this end Mountain Gear has sent an orange alien from each batch that we have in stock (1105 and 1205), as well as another alien of each size from any batches we have, for testing. We should have pull test results back early the week of Jan 9th and I commit that we will post our findings here.

We do not have any cams stamped 805 but if you purchased an orange 805 stamped cam from Mountain Gear and would like us to exchange it we would be happy to do so.

Let's try to get this resolved so we can all go back to trusting and using some of our favorite gear.

Paul Fish
President
Mountain Gear, Inc
paulf@mgear.com


This is what will cause action on the part of CCH.

Paul, regardless of the test results, as a mgear customer and attorney, I would strongly encourage you to consult with your own counsel before releasing any results of your testing here or in any other public fashion or forum.

Chris


davidji


Jan 5, 2006, 7:51 PM
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In reply to:
[When I made it I had not seen the current thread about the current failure....i was refering to the previous thread from awhile back where the poster was a former(and short time) employee who did have ulterior motives....My mistake for not looking through every thread on the site.
I think (but I could be wrong) that boadman who contributed to that thread was a former CCH Summer employee, but quietmonk--the OP--had never worked there. At least I didn't see any mention of him having been employed there. I didn't look especially hard though.


iamthewallress


Jan 5, 2006, 7:53 PM
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FWIW,

I had one of the incorrectly drilled orange aliens. I e-mailed CCH about it and heard nothing back from them.

I returned it to REI where I purchased it. I'm glad to hear that they've taken them off the shelf.

Aliens have outperformed everthing else when it comes to fitting in certain places and holding in odd aid configurations. I don't fall much, although I have fallen on aliens two different times. I've always taken for granted that they would be as strong as claimed, and I believe that in general they probably are.

That the CCH's response here (in conjunction with being totally ignored re: my defective item) has been to assume that the complaint was bogus rather than to err on the side of caution and look to correct a possible serious defect is really troubling to me.


brianinslc


Jan 5, 2006, 7:54 PM
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Pity that the American Alpine Club does *nothing* to help ensure safe gear. It's shameful that there is no organization in the US that works to protect cliimbers.

Not true. The AAC supports the Safety Commision of the UIAA.

Mission of the UIAA Safety Commission:

To minimise accidents in mountaineering and climbing by:

- Developing standards for mountaineering and climbing equipment to minimise accidents caused by equipment failure or unsafe design.
- Analysing the market for mountaineering and climbing equipment to determine if the existing standards should be revised.
- Reviewing mountaineering and climbing accidents to determine if existing standards are at a high enough level and, where necessary, to modify them.
- Accrediting laboratories that tests mountaineering and climbing equipment to ensure that the test results are in accordance with UIAA standards.

AAC also publishes ANAM. They also have a Safety Committee and a Medical Committee.

AAC doesn't need your pity, but they could use your help...(how's that for a sales pitch? Ha ha...).

FYI.

Paul, hope to see you in NH at the annual meeting (that flask you put out has been a big hit, pun intended). Cheers!

Brian in SLC


clayman


Jan 5, 2006, 8:11 PM
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Pull testing one cam per batch is nice, but probably won't tell us much. I think visual inspection of all aliens is more important. I'd expect most--but not all--of us could spot an improperly brazed device.

maybe this has been stated already, but is the silver brazing material put into the "female" end of the cam first and then brazed or is the material added after the "male" end is inserted. If the former, it seems as if a visual inspection would reveal nothing. You'd have to use some non-destructive diagnostic test (ie ultrasound) to determine the quality of the braze. Again I have no idea how these things are put together.

cl


daithi


Jan 5, 2006, 8:15 PM
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What happens when technical people dabble in public relations....

In reply to:
The Silver brazed connections on Aliens are made by experienced ,skilled people who take great care in the quality of the braze. The accusations being made on this site are quite serious .
An examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims made regarding alleged failure of the brazed connection. Without an actual report by a lab we will assume this is a staged hoax.
The cable on a 1.5 orange alien will hold over 3500 pounds, far more force than a falling climber could ever generate. When tested on a machine the cable will break ,not pull out of the cable eye.
David Waggoner at CCH

Considering someone could have potentially died, because one of your products failed to match its specification, maybe a bit more sensitivity was in order. This is regardless of whether this turns out to be a hoax or not. You are expressing the opinions of your company not just you as an individual. I'm afraid it cast your company in a very bad light.


tradgal


Jan 5, 2006, 8:28 PM
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Edited because I may have misunderstood CCH's website wording...


dudemanbu


Jan 5, 2006, 8:33 PM
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Trad girl, in my interpretation, the main cable is brazed, and the other connections (trigger wires/ loop connecting to the sling) are swaged.


nuts_r_us


Jan 5, 2006, 8:37 PM
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In reply to:
The Silver brazed connections on Aliens are made by experienced ,skilled people who take great care in the quality of the braze. The accusations being made on this site are quite serious .
An examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims made regarding alleged failure of the brazed connection. Without an actual report by a lab we will assume this is a staged hoax.
The cable on a 1.5 orange alien will hold over 3500 pounds, far more force than a falling climber could ever generate. When tested on a machine the cable will break ,not pull out of the cable eye.
David Waggoner at CCH

Fine, dickweed. No more Aliens for me. Good luck with your business.


dirtineye


Jan 5, 2006, 8:38 PM
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Once upon a time I ran several businesses, including some of my own, and even manufactured tools & parts for a national distributor.

If I had handled a customer problem the way CCH has with their response, I would have lost business or been fired or both.

Maybe the CCH guy will notice that he had the backing of aliens lovers at the beginning of hte other thread, but since the CCH response, some of that backing has dissipated.


nuts_r_us


Jan 5, 2006, 8:40 PM
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In reply to:
The Silver brazed connections on Aliens are made by experienced ,skilled people who take great care in the quality of the braze. The accusations being made on this site are quite serious .
An examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims made regarding alleged failure of the brazed connection. Without an actual report by a lab we will assume this is a staged hoax.
The cable on a 1.5 orange alien will hold over 3500 pounds, far more force than a falling climber could ever generate. When tested on a machine the cable will break ,not pull out of the cable eye.
David Waggoner at CCH

Okay Dave. Your inappropriate response has cost you one customer. My guess is it has cost more than one, but I only speak for myself. There are plenty of cam companies and your cams are not *that* unique. Good luck with your business. Post up again if you wish to alter your response and I will read it and decide whether forgiveness is in order.


qulith


Jan 5, 2006, 8:44 PM
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In reply to:

According to CCH website, the connection is swaged. That is my interpretation anyway. Anyone else take that differently? The eye fitting is brazed to the braided wire and that is swaged to the female part???

The swage is where the wire is connected back to itself (at the top of the thunb loop).

Brazing is used to connect the wire into the head of the cam.

In reply to:
Brazing is a method of joining two pieces of metal together with a third, molten filler metal. The joint area is heated above the melting point of the filler metal but below the melting point of the metals being joined; the molten filler metal flows into the gap between the other two metal pieces by capillary action and forms a strong metallurgical bond as it cools.

From: http://www.inductionatmospheres.com/brazing_overview.html

I have been trying to learn a little about brazing and its strengths and weaknesses due to these discussions. Can someone knowledgeable please let us know how to inspect a brazed joint? Also how easily can this process be done improperly? Is it a pretty straight forward procedure for a trained person or is there a high chance for operator error if they are not focused?


clayman


Jan 5, 2006, 8:47 PM
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In reply to:
Trad girl, in my interpretation, the main cable is brazed, and the other connections (trigger wires/ loop connecting to the sling) are swaged.

Can someone explain the difference between brazing and soldering?
Also, I still don't see how you're going the visually check these things out, the part that needs checking is hidden, right? Strength testing would seem more appropiate.

cl


roy_hinkley_jr


Jan 5, 2006, 8:59 PM
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Not true. The AAC supports the Safety Commision of the UIAA.

AAC also publishes ANAM. They also have a Safety Committee and a Medical Committee.

"Supports" as in the AAC has one unpaid volunteer who occassionally goes to the meetings in Europe. They do no testing. They do no work on the behalf of companies or consumers. They publish no articles on gear safety. But they have a sweet library that nobody uses and a good annual party.

ANAM has its own sets of problems (weak reporting, heavily biased editing) but that's a different issue.

Agree with other comments that random sampling by MGear is a nice jesture but won't prove/disprove anything and may come back to bite them.


dirtineye


Jan 5, 2006, 9:03 PM
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In reply to:
I have been trying to learn a little about brazing and its strengths and weaknesses due to these discussions. Can someone knowledgeable please let us know how to inspect a brazed joint? Also how easily can this process be done improperly? Is it a pretty straight forward procedure for a trained person or is there a high chance for operator error if they are not focused?

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/gsearch.php?q=induction%20brazing


qulith


Jan 5, 2006, 9:15 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I have been trying to learn a little about brazing and its strengths and weaknesses due to these discussions. Can someone knowledgeable please let us know how to inspect a brazed joint? Also how easily can this process be done improperly? Is it a pretty straight forward procedure for a trained person or is there a high chance for operator error if they are not focused?

http://www.uncoverthenet.com/gsearch.php?q=induction%20brazing

Thanks. I still can't find a good source for detailed information about silver brazing. Most of the information that is returned by search engines is for contractors and businesses selling equipment.

Still the best site I found was the one I posted earlier that was a very basic overview of brazing.

I am still looking for more information on the subject if anyone can provide it.


fear


Jan 5, 2006, 9:24 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Trad girl, in my interpretation, the main cable is brazed, and the other connections (trigger wires/ loop connecting to the sling) are swaged.

Can someone explain the difference between brazing and soldering?
Also, I still don't see how you're going the visually check these things out, the part that needs checking is hidden, right? Strength testing would seem more appropiate.

cl

I've done a bit of welding and brazing for a few years. As a hobby though...

Brazing is essentially soldering at a much higher temperature. In both brazing and soldering the bond between the two pieces is relying on the capillary action of the solder/braze material which is sometimes an alloy with silver in it. Hence "Silver brazed".... Properly brazed materials are VERY strong and can be stronger than the two metals that are joined.

The problem is, just like welding, that joint prep is key. In brazing you want a VERY thin layer of braze filler in the joint. Too "thick" and the braze will be crap. Too thin isn't good either although that's less of a problem. You also don't want too much or too little flux. With no tiny hole on top of the piece the cable is seated in I'd imagine that you could have too much flux and end up cooking it, trapping it, creating those odd looking voids that are evident on the soldered end of the cable in the pictures....

There would be no way that I know of to inspecting a suspect alien since you can't see a thing....

But I'm just a hack. We need a pro for this....

-Fear


fear


Jan 5, 2006, 9:29 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Trad girl, in my interpretation, the main cable is brazed, and the other connections (trigger wires/ loop connecting to the sling) are swaged.

Can someone explain the difference between brazing and soldering?
Also, I still don't see how you're going the visually check these things out, the part that needs checking is hidden, right? Strength testing would seem more appropiate.

cl

I've done a bit of welding and brazing for a few years. As a hobby though...

Brazing is essentially soldering at a much higher temperature. In both brazing and soldering the bond between the two pieces is relying on the capillary action of the solder/braze material which is sometimes an alloy with silver in it. Hence "Silver brazed".... Properly brazed materials are VERY strong and can be stronger than the two metals that are joined.

The problem is, just like welding, that joint prep is key. In brazing you want a VERY thin layer of braze filler in the joint. Too "thick" and the braze will be crap. Too thin isn't good either although that's less of a problem. You also don't want too much or too little flux. With no tiny hole on top of the piece the cable is seated in I'd imagine that you could have too much flux and end up cooking it, trapping it, creating those odd looking voids that are evident on the soldered end of the cable in the pictures....

There would be no way that I know of to inspecting a suspect alien since you can't see a thing....

But I'm just a hack. We need a pro for this....

-Fear


timm


Jan 5, 2006, 9:48 PM
Post #119 of 246 (40685 views)
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To this end Mountain Gear has sent an orange alien from each batch that we have in stock (1105 and 1205), as well as another alien of each size from any batches we have, for testing. We should have pull test results back early the week of Jan 9th and I commit that we will post our findings here.

We do not have any cams stamped 805 but if you purchased an orange 805 stamped cam from Mountain Gear and would like us to exchange it we would be happy to do so.

I had recently purchased 4 sets of aliens from two different retailiers (not mgear and not rei) and all are at present unused. The manufacture dates on them range from 0605 to 1105 with about half being marked 0805 (just my luck).

Since I'm sure as heck not going to climb on them now, I am willing to donate some of the 0805 aliens to someone that has access to a pull machine for further testing as long as they are willing to share the results publicly.

mgear_pres or maldaly, if you are interested, PM me.

Up to my a@@ in useless aliens,

Tim


gyngve


Jan 5, 2006, 9:51 PM
Post #120 of 246 (40685 views)
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Pity that the American Alpine Club does *nothing* to help ensure safe gear. It's shameful that there is no organization in the US that works to protect cliimbers.

You mean Accidents in North American Mountaineering is purely for the dark humor?

Do you suppose that Americans don't participate in the UIAA?

I hear that ASCA organization just eats donuts all day long.


Partner csgambill


Jan 5, 2006, 10:14 PM
Post #121 of 246 (40685 views)
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In an earlier post I had asked people who have contacted CCH to post the results of their conversations. I've been keeping a fairly close eye on these threads and have not seen any posts conveying such information. So, I decided to contact CCH myself. I just got off the phone with Dave at CCH who verified that cchaliens does in fact represent CCH.

I've also read some reports that CCH has poor customer service. When I initially contacted CCH Dave was unavailable, so I left a message and was told that Dave would call me back within an hour. Lo and behold, 1/2 hour - 45 min later, he called me back. He believes strongly in his product and has confidence in his brazer. I believe that it is possible for even the best of us to make the occasional mistake. Dave also gave me some other interesting information. He stated that he has NOT been contacted by the person who made the claim that the cam failed. Dave also stated that if the OP were to contact him and pursue this issue with CCH, CCH would basically take the action I stated they should in my prior post. -He did not cite my post-

I have to run to catch a train at the moment, but will post more of my thoughts later.


outdoorsie


Jan 5, 2006, 10:19 PM
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I've followed this thread for a day and believe that as both a user of Aliens and as a reseller, Mountain Gear should weigh in.

Climbing Gear is "mission critical” and as such any concern about its safety should be taken seriously and resolved quickly. Take the past examples of BD, Metolius and other vendors putting out recalls for products where just a very small number of units were found to have flaws.

We believe a manufacturer should act proactively to ensure the quality of their product. It's certainly better to be safe now, than sorry later.
Though we do not believe the retailer should be responsible for a manufacturer’s quality control, there are instances where we believe it is in the best interest of climbing and our customers to be proactive.

To this end Mountain Gear has sent an orange alien from each batch that we have in stock (1105 and 1205), as well as another alien of each size from any batches we have, for testing. We should have pull test results back early the week of Jan 9th and I commit that we will post our findings here.

We do not have any cams stamped 805 but if you purchased an orange 805 stamped cam from Mountain Gear and would like us to exchange it we would be happy to do so.

Let's try to get this resolved so we can all go back to trusting and using some of our favorite gear.

Paul Fish
President
Mountain Gear, Inc
paulf@mgear.com

This has greatly impressed me. I agree the sample size is small, but at least they are concerned and doing something about it! Hooray MGear!

I also wanted to add my name to the list of people who had been planning on supplementing my set of tcu's with aliens, and is now probably just going to buy C3s ... hopefully from Mountain Gear. 8^)


scrapedape


Jan 5, 2006, 10:34 PM
Post #123 of 246 (40685 views)
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The plot thickens...
In reply to:
he has NOT been contacted by the person who made the claim that the cam failed.

The OP should probably call CCH as a number of folks have been suggesting already. Evidently his email has not been received. It would be pretty brazen of Dave to be telling folks he hasn't heard from this guy if he really has.


bobruef


Jan 5, 2006, 10:40 PM
Post #124 of 246 (40685 views)
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In reply to:
The plot thickens...
In reply to:
he has NOT been contacted by the person who made the claim that the cam failed.

The OP should probably call CCH as a number of folks have been suggesting already. Evidently his email has not been received. It would be pretty brazen of Dave to be telling folks he hasn't heard from this guy if he really has.

will somebody please give scrapedape a trophy for the most cheezy, bad taste joke of the day?

...and the velveeta award goes to...


clarki


Jan 5, 2006, 11:05 PM
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Dave also gave me some other interesting information. He stated that he has NOT been contacted by the person who made the claim that the cam failed. Dave also stated that if the OP were to contact him and pursue this issue with CCH, CCH would basically take the action I stated they should in my prior post. -He did not cite my post-

PTHBTHBTHBPTHBPTHB and a HIIIIIIYAA!! Looks like y'all been trolled something fierce.

I give the OP a solid T8 with a two point bonus for saying nothing while you tools ranted on for 8 pages in 2 days :lol:

Total: T 11 Congratulations sir, you rock.


clarki


Jan 5, 2006, 11:07 PM
Post #126 of 246 (40727 views)
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Apparently I need to sharpen my pencil a bit. I still give the OP a T11 though even if I can't add.


:roll:


clayman


Jan 5, 2006, 11:15 PM
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Troll? You got to be kidding me! If this is true, the OP needs to be kicked off this website.

cl


Partner cracklover


Jan 5, 2006, 11:20 PM
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No question, the jury is still out on this whole sordid business.

As for me, I'll rigorously bounce test *all* new cams from *all* makers in the future before I place one IRL.

GO


sixleggedinsect


Jan 5, 2006, 11:26 PM
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As for me, I'll rigorously bounce test *all* new cams from *all* makers in the future before I place one IRL.

yeah. are you an aid climber whose placements never fail?

then that'll work great. otherwise you still won't know diddly.


Partner happiegrrrl


Jan 5, 2006, 11:30 PM
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Well.....I suppose we should give Insanio the benefit of the doubt here, as some have suggested be given to CCH while the claims against the company were made.....Hopefully we will hear from him soon, becaue....well, you know how things go. Where's that drama emoticon!?


sixleggedinsect


Jan 5, 2006, 11:34 PM
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If these reports are correct, the failure mechanism is apparently a bad braze. We would expect that type of defect to have some random distribution. It's possible there was a bad batch here too, but we have no reason to think so. Even if there was a cluster of bad brazes, you would expect to find some elsewhere as well.

im with you here. this is particularly scary to me because it is a mistake that is difficult to detect and probably random in nature, unless the joint-man was completely blasted and turned out a whole batch of bad cams. which is unlikely, to say the least.

if someone told me that all the stem-pullout failures were soldered by the same guy and he stopped working at cch in november, then id feel better about december cams. if someone told me that the failures were soldered with the wrong flux and only certain batches were made when it was lyign around, then id like to know the batches. but if its just one here and one there, then there may be plenty more floating around and pull testing random samples isnt going to rule out the possibility of (lots) more defective cams.

In reply to:
Pull testing one cam per batch is nice, but probably won't tell us much. I think visual inspection of all aliens is more important. I'd expect most--but not all--of us could spot an improperly brazed device.

hm, really? this is new to me, and could be really important. i have done some brazing and soldering and DO NOT feel comfortable looking at my joints and telling whether they are good. i had to actually make the joint myself to tell. it is easy to screw the joint up but still leave a pretty flawless fillet around the edge to confuse all the folks taking a peek. aliens, as a rule, have a pretty flawless fillet.

when i was working with metal, the only way we could truly be sure if a joint was good was to cut it open and check the penetration. xrays might do the same thing, but i woudlnt know. and the orange alien mentioned in this thread appeared to have good penetration, just bad adherance, so perhaps even cutting an alien open or xraying (or whatever) it might not prove conclusive. i believe this is the root of the expensive three sigma testing. its hard to feel solid that your gear is defect free without breaking a lot of it.

if you do believe that most, 'but not all', of us could spot an improperly brazed alien (with its impeccable fillet) please post. use technical terms if necessary. i would love to know this.


sixleggedinsect


Jan 5, 2006, 11:40 PM
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In reply to:
If these reports are correct, the failure mechanism is apparently a bad braze. We would expect that type of defect to have some random distribution. It's possible there was a bad batch here too, but we have no reason to think so. Even if there was a cluster of bad brazes, you would expect to find some elsewhere as well.

im with you here. this is particularly scary to me because it is a mistake that is difficult to detect and probably random in nature, unless the joint-man was completely blasted and turned out a whole batch of bad cams. which is unlikely, to say the least.

if someone told me that all the stem-pullout failures were soldered by the same guy and he stopped working at cch in november, then id feel better about december cams. if someone told me that the failures were soldered with the wrong flux and only certain batches were made when it was lyign around, then id like to know the batches. but if its just one here and one there, then there may be plenty more floating around and pull testing random samples isnt going to rule out the possibility of (lots) more defective cams.

In reply to:
Pull testing one cam per batch is nice, but probably won't tell us much. I think visual inspection of all aliens is more important. I'd expect most--but not all--of us could spot an improperly brazed device.

hm, really? this is new to me, and could be really important. i have done some brazing and soldering and DO NOT feel comfortable looking at my joints and telling whether they are good. i had to actually make the joint myself to tell. it is easy to screw the joint up but still leave a pretty flawless fillet around the edge to confuse all the folks taking a peek.

if you do believe that most, 'but not all', of us could spot an improperly brazes device please post up. use technical terms if necessary. i would love to know this.


davidji


Jan 6, 2006, 12:30 AM
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hm, really? this is new to me, and could be really important. i have done some brazing and soldering and DO NOT feel comfortable looking at my joints and telling whether they are good. i had to actually make the joint myself to tell. it is easy to screw the joint up but still leave a pretty flawless fillet around the edge to confuse all the folks taking a peek.
I think I was wrong. It was only my expectation, fueled largely from wishful thinking that looking for obvious cold-solder or no solder joints is enough. I was hoping we could neglect internal voids, and whatever else you'd miss that way. If the reports are correct, it sounds like this recent Alien failed under pretty low forces, and I was hoping that kind of thing would have to be an obvious problem.

I don't know if this is common practice, but there's a mil-std that specs on a blind end joint like this one, to start with the filler materiel in the blind end. If you get a good fillet, then you've got a lot of solder in there. That same standard requires radiographic or ultrasound inspection of critical joints such as this. Just looking at it isn't good enough for them.


ctclimbz


Jan 6, 2006, 12:52 AM
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[quote="clarki"] Looks like y'all been trolled something fierce.
In reply to:

Not quite...

Whether or not THIS particular thread is a troll, there are several serious and valid questions that have been raised in the last six months about the quality control of Aliens. Period. Try the supertopo thread for examples if you're a disbeliever.

And the response from CCH? Still pretty much speaks for itself. They ARE losing customers while this nonsense continues.


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 1:02 AM
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The OP is not a hoax or troll, but I suspect Kevin has only emailed them at this point and I would also encourage him to phone Dave and let him address the issue directly with Kevin. However, that doesn't address the general issues around CCH's manufacturing/QA/Service processes manifest by the several incidents and problems we've seen over the past year. Again, I want Dave, CCH, and Aliens to keep on going - we simply need to see some sign that Dave understands the scope and gravity of the problems we've been discussing and that he is willing to take responibility and ownership of then and then simply proceed on to whatever steps are necessary to correct them. There is no reason he still can't get his relationship with all these loyal and patient customers back on track if he does. He should take this as an opportunity for positive change and a chance to strengthen his relationship with his customers instead of proceeding down the exact opposite path as he has apparently chosen for the moment...


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 1:10 AM
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I also wanted to extend kudos to Paul of MGear for the forthright approach he and his company is taking in this matter. Climbing as an industry hasn't been "innocent" since Chouinard when down under the weight of it's unfortunate legal troubles and problems like these can affect all gear manufacturers over the long haul. But at this time the industry has no organized trade group / technical committee which might help a member company through a problem like this and possibly that is one thing all the gear manufacturers might want to seriously consider.

[ Note: I suspect Malcolm Daly ("malday" here) would never tout his own horn here but I did want to repost this Trango recall notice he bravely posted on alt.rec.climbing back in 1999. It is a model example of someone taking a hit in the most positive way possible... ]

=============================
Trango Captain Hook Pick Recall

Malcolm Daly
Mar 16 1999, 12:00 am

Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: "Malcolm Daly"
Date: 1999/03/16
Subject: Trango Captain Hook Pick Recall

Dear Ice Climbing Friends,

Sorry to say it, but we've come to the conclusion that we have to replace
all of the picks for the Captain Hook and Claw ice tools. We've had a small
percentage (24 broken picks out of more than 800 out there) break suddenly under typical circumstances that don't seem to have anything to do with
bitter cold temps, hard ice or relentless torquing.

So we're going to make it easy on you. Don't send us anything--go to the
store where you got the tool to get your pick(s)replaced, or let us know
what tools you have and we'll send you new picks and bolts. Most shops
should have the new picks by 3/15. The new picks are waaaay bomber; check out the JPEGs attached and official Recall notice posted on our site at www.trango.com

Please be specific about the model of tool you have. For me to replace your picks I need to know if you have the Captain Hook Bent Shaft, Clearance
Shaft or the Claw.

Sorry for any inconvenience this will cause.

Cheers!
Malcolm Daly, President


bigevilgrape


Jan 6, 2006, 1:13 AM
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call 12 for action


sbaclimber


Jan 6, 2006, 1:22 AM
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Just how safe IS your mattress :!: :?:
:lol: :lol:


socalclimber


Jan 6, 2006, 2:18 AM
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Wow, I don't have the time to read EVERY post, but I must agree that CCH's response was "less than optimal".

The one thing I can't figure out, why don't you folks understand that they (CCH) are already lawyered up? They won't be responding to anything at this point. I can assure you they have already spoken with their councel and will not be coming out with any more statements until a carefuly crafted statement can be made.

Me, I'll continue to buy their gear, hell, I just bought some new aliens! I like their stuff, I've been using it for years.

Robert


daithi


Jan 6, 2006, 2:49 AM
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In reply to:
The one thing I can't figure out, why don't you folks understand that they (CCH) are already lawyered up? They won't be responding to anything at this point. I can assure you they have already spoken with their councel and will not be coming out with any more statements until a carefuly crafted statement can be made.

Makes one wonder why they obviously didn't do this in the first place, doesn't it?


greenketch


Jan 6, 2006, 3:15 AM
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In reply to:
Can someone knowledgeable please let us know how to inspect a brazed joint? Also how easily can this process be done improperly? Is it a pretty straight forward procedure for a trained person or is there a high chance for operator error if they are not focused?

Brazed joints are quite difficult to visually inspect without an in process inspection also. As already mentioned it is very similar to soldering just at a differant temperature. If the joint is done correctly it is cleaned, fluxed, then heated to suffiecient temperature and the filler is added from one side. The inflow of alloy displaces the flux. You are left with a solid joint. Inspection is just a case of looking ot see that it is not full of bubbles or flux intrusion, also a smooth fillet on the far side indicating enough heat and sifficient material. Now if someone is in a hurray they can add a little filler on one side and then the other. It looks great and smooth but there is no alloy in the middle.

The one thing I agree with Dave from CCH with is that a competent metalurgist should examine the failed parts. Once the joint fails it is easy to examine and see why.

Quilth, you have a good question. I would suggest that if you are much concerned about it stop by a local plumbing or metal shop and tell them that you would like to see a few good brazes and maybe an example of a bad one. They most likley could show you one and once you have seen what you are looking for it is not too hard to spot. Another choice would be a local High School. If they have metal shop they will have a few good joints and few bad for sure.

Of course the disclaimer that this is an internet crash course in inspection applies. :wink:


Partner cracklover


Jan 6, 2006, 3:57 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
As for me, I'll rigorously bounce test *all* new cams from *all* makers in the future before I place one IRL.

yeah. are you an aid climber whose placements never fail?

then that'll work great. otherwise you still won't know diddly.

Well, they don't fail due to the piece breaking! Sorry if I'm being obtuse, but I don't get your point. The kind of forces that supposedly caused the orange alien this thread is about to fail could certainly be generated in a bounce test.

GO


insainio


Jan 6, 2006, 4:21 AM
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Hey all,

After not hearing from cch today, I will be calling them tomorrow to discuss what should be done. I believe that I have given them ample time to respond to my e-mails.

I would like to point out that my e-mail address is displayed clearly on my profile. If it is in fact true that my e-mails did not go through, and Dave did take this seriously, he could have responded to me through my profile.

I will let you know what he says,

Kevin


josephgdawson


Jan 6, 2006, 7:22 AM
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I dont believe cchaliens is really CCH. The OP is just too poorly written and no one in his right mind would respond that way. There is even a typo in it. I do not see any proof that it is CCH's account, and if there is proof I would like someone to mention it. Yes, there is one other post by cchaliens, but so what.

I do not think that CCH needs to respond to this orange Alien issue on rc.com, but a mention of it and their response to the issue on their web site would be good.


gyngve


Jan 6, 2006, 7:44 AM
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i hope all you posers stop buying aliens so i can buy them whenever I desire! muahahahaha!


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 8:50 AM
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Joseph, that was Dave and CCH...


bobruef


Jan 6, 2006, 12:51 PM
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In reply to:
I dont believe cchaliens is really CCH. The OP is just too poorly written and no one in his right mind would respond that way. There is even a typo in it. I do not see any proof that it is CCH's account, and if there is proof I would like someone to mention it. Yes, there is one other post by cchaliens, but so what.

In reply to:
In an earlier post I had asked people who have contacted CCH to post the results of their conversations. I've been keeping a fairly close eye on these threads and have not seen any posts conveying such information. So, I decided to contact CCH myself. I just got off the phone with Dave at CCH who verified that cchaliens does in fact represent CCH.

on an unrelated note- If I headed up a company that produced, what I thought to be incredibly consistent, safe and reliable cams...

and someone publicly questioned or disputed this...

I would find it in my own best interests to arange for some method of disproving the accuser and/or finding a way to re-assure my customers.

This is something CCH needs to be pro-active about. Insano is right, even if they lost his email, they have more than what they would need to get ahold of him regarding this.

And they've had more than enough opportunity to right things with the concerned CCH loyalists


daithi


Jan 6, 2006, 1:37 PM
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Can someone please let us know how to inspect a brazed joint? Also how easily can this process be done improperly? Is it a pretty straight forward procedure for a trained person or is there a high chance for operator error if they are not focused?

Although I am no expert in non destructive testing (NDT) techniques I can tell you a few things!

Things to look for in a visual check would be incomplete fillets, recessed fillets (could be due to brazing gaps), excess filler and the overall condition of the joint. Needless to say one would need to be sufficiently trained to know what to look for. Because of the overlap in the joint visual inspection is only of limited use.

Other NDT techniques that can be used for examining brazed joints are ultrasound, radiography, penetrant detection and thermography (will detect unbonded areas). Ultrasound, using direct echo location, is able to detect quite a few of the potential flaws in the joint such as large pores/inclusions, incomplete flow, longitudinal cracks and incomplete wetting. Radiography is only of use if the filler material has a significantly different X-ray absorption coefficient from the parent materials.

If you would like to read more and enjoy reading engineering standards, the non-destructive testing of brazed joints is covered by European standard EN 12799 (I have no idea what the equivalent American standard is). It has lots of good information on it.


Partner tgreene


Jan 6, 2006, 1:51 PM
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..


billl7


Jan 6, 2006, 2:25 PM
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In reply to:
Things to look for in a visual check would be incomplete fillets, recessed fillets (could be due to brazing gaps), excess filler and the overall condition of the joint. Needless to say one would need to be sufficiently trained to know what to look for. Because of the overlap in the joint visual inspection is only of limited use.
Well said. In terms of problem detection, a visual is like the "bump test" of an anchor rigged for rappel - maybe a good sanity check but does not provide very much certainty of soundness.
In reply to:
Other NDT techniques that can be used for examining brazed joints are ultrasound, radiography, penetrant detection and thermography (will detect unbonded areas).
Under the hands of a trained inspector, liquid penetrant inspection is very good at detecting small cracks at the exposed surface: apply brightly colored liquid penetrant, let it soak in, wipe off everything practical with a solvent soaked rag, spray on an extractant (typically white) which tends to draw up penetrant from cracks. Inspect for contamination of the layer of white extractant (typically blurry red blotches and lines show defects that had reached the surface).

Not that was a suggested technique for this problem, but if the brazing is associated with a wire cable (?) then the crevices of the braided cable would interfere (test would tend to "fail" anyway due to crevices in the braided cable).

A lab might follow up Non-Destructive Test with Destructive Test such as sectioning the braze joint and inspecting the internal brazing with a microscope.

In the case of the broken cam, a simple visual inspection by someone who is trained at brazing could reveal whether the braze failed and resolve the "hoax" issue; maybe someone mentioned this. In other words. The cost of having the cam inspected may not be so great and still get pretty close enough to the cause of the problem.

Bill


sixleggedinsect


Jan 6, 2006, 3:22 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
As for me, I'll rigorously bounce test *all* new cams from *all* makers in the future before I place one IRL.

yeah. are you an aid climber whose placements never fail?

then that'll work great. otherwise you still won't know diddly.

Well, they don't fail due to the piece breaking! Sorry if I'm being obtuse, but I don't get your point. The kind of forces that supposedly caused the orange alien this thread is about to fail could certainly be generated in a bounce test.

first off, on re-read, i apologize for my sarcastic response. sorry 'bout that. anyways, bounce testing your cams will tell you that they probably won't fail at dismal ridiculously low loads, but still won't tell you they'll hold a real fall. being a person who sincerely hopes his cams will hold a hard fall, bounce testing wouldn't assuage any of my fears.

i suppose bounce testing cams is better than nothing, but in the big picture, it doesn't tell you anything about the cam except it'll work as a body weight aid placement.


jwood


Jan 6, 2006, 5:19 PM
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In reply to:
cracklover wrote:
sixleggedinsect wrote:
cracklover wrote:
As for me, I'll rigorously bounce test *all* new cams from *all* makers in the future before I place one IRL.


yeah. are you an aid climber whose placements never fail?

then that'll work great. otherwise you still won't know diddly.


Well, they don't fail due to the piece breaking! Sorry if I'm being obtuse, but I don't get your point. The kind of forces that supposedly caused the orange alien this thread is about to fail could certainly be generated in a bounce test.


first off, on re-read, i apologize for my sarcastic response. sorry 'bout that. anyways, bounce testing your cams will tell you that they probably won't fail at dismal ridiculously low loads, but still won't tell you they'll hold a real fall. being a person who sincerely hopes his cams will hold a hard fall, bounce testing wouldn't assuage any of my fears.

i suppose bounce testing cams is better than nothing, but in the big picture, it doesn't tell you anything about the cam except it'll work as a body weight aid placement.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can generate more force with a short static fall (bounce test), than you would during a leader fall on a dynamic rope.


sixleggedinsect


Jan 6, 2006, 5:41 PM
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In reply to:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can generate more force with a short static fall (bounce test), than you would during a leader fall on a dynamic rope.

If you're willing to be really serious about it, then yes, you could generate a lot of force. (hope you don't have back problems!)

However, bounce testing your cams to 10 kN is a bit much. It just isn't going to happen.

I don't know how much force you could generate in a bounce test (three times body weight? about 2 kN? maybe 3?) nor do i think that taking controlled static falls (which could generate a lot more force) is a good idea because you'll start to break things.

anyways, this is silly. even the idea that one should bounce test their cams before using them is utterly and completely ludicrous. any brand for which this starts to seem like a good idea is doing something seriously wrong.


insainio


Jan 6, 2006, 5:51 PM
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OK guys, here is whats happening.

I spoke to David this morning and I will be sending the cam to a lab that he recommended in Denver. David said that we should have the results next week. He also graciously offered to pay for the testing.

I just want to say thanks to David for doing that.

Also, to clear up the communication issue. I asked David if he had checked his email, and he told me that he hadn't. So, for future reference, it is probably better to call or mail if you have any questions.

Kevin


bobruef


Jan 6, 2006, 5:59 PM
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Being one of their biggest detractors throughout this incident, I'd like to say kudos to CCH, and thank you for stepping up to the plate.

I'll be anxious to read the lab's findings.

Thank you for keeping us posted insano.


dudemanbu


Jan 6, 2006, 6:01 PM
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Good: offering to pay for the test.
Bad: not reading the thread to see that you had emailed him
Ugly: not checking his email at all in 4 days.


clayman


Jan 6, 2006, 6:04 PM
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In reply to:
OK guys, here is whats happening.

I spoke to David this morning and I will be sending the cam to a lab that he recommended in Denver. David said that we should have the results next week. He also graciously offered to pay for the testing.

I just want to say thanks to David for doing that.

Also, to clear up the communication issue. I asked David if he had checked his email, and he told me that he hadn't. So, for future reference, it is probably better to call or mail if you have any questions.

Kevin


Well, this is a good start for Dave. Hope he continues in this vein. Can't wait to hear the result of the test too! cheers

cl


crotch


Jan 6, 2006, 6:07 PM
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Props to Dave. Might be worth removing the email address from the CCH website if they don't check it frequently.


clayman


Jan 6, 2006, 6:12 PM
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In reply to:
Props to Dave. Might be worth removing the email address from the CCH website if they don't check it frequently.

yeah I agree with this. Not checking you email (for a company) in this day and age is dangerous business, if you're not going to check it, definitely don't give it out, you're just going to frustrate and anger customers who choose to communicate with you this way.

cl

edit:
To the OP, is Dave's email address different from the official CCH email address? If yes, which one did you use?


antiqued


Jan 6, 2006, 6:15 PM
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For God's sake - please slow down! This forum needs a longer viewpoint.

Remember the last blow up in Feb. (I wasn't on this forum then,) but review shows 12 pages of both complimentary and critical postings, followed by a lack of ANYTHING - no photos, no failed cam, no analysis, no follow up from either the OP, the forum or CCH.

This year, CCH posted a response in under 2 days. If they happen not to read RC.com on a priority basis, that's not bad. Where I work, a contentious commercial (but not legal) email from a customer requires getting 3-4 people together, drafting a response, editing and approving it, and that takes several hours when you can get the right people together.

Their response came 46 hours (and 9 pages of postings) after the OP on the alleged orange alien brazing failure. That response generated 10 pages of posts in 28 hours. No one can respond without being several pages of posts behind.

Last Feb, they responded in 7 days (12 pages of posts were generated in 3 days, then only a half page in the next 4). And what did we learn? Just about nothing, except that the attention span of RC.com is about 12 pages!

I would understand if CCH's response to the second issue was colored by their experience from the first - their experience is not reading post after post questioning the safety of devices they depend on, growing more and more frantic by the minute! Rather it was being slapped in the face with a sudden flood of personal and busness attacks that appear to have been maliciously generated, since it seems that no evidence ever arrived at their doorstep.

So - what did happen?

Quietmonk, CCH - was a cam sent/received?
Moderators - did you check into this at all? - you offered a forum for that allegation. I appreciate your lack of prior censorship, but was no one curious enough to follow up?

And - what is the status of the Shelley rap accident recreation?

Nov 13 Site visit and Recreation
Nov 19 - report written, "will post in few days"
Nov 23 - last post in series (8 pages, 11 pages, 2 pages, almost all in 8 days)


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 6:48 PM
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In reply to:
For God's sake - please slow down! This forum needs a longer viewpoint.
...
I would understand if CCH's response to the second issue was colored by their experience from the first - their experience is not reading post after post questioning the safety of devices they depend on, growing more and more frantic by the minute! Rather it was being slapped in the face with a sudden flood of personal and busness attacks that appear to have been maliciously generated, since it seems that no evidence ever arrived at their doorstep.

antiqued,

Now that wasn't too bad of a take on the situation, but if you have read all the posts in all the threads both here and on SuperTopo you should realized that this has been simmering for a year during which several manufacturing, QA, and service problems have been manifest. Dave and CCH were given more than a benefit of doubt last time around, but with what's occured between these two incidents I believe all this online activity is actually quite a positive turn of events. That said, the Internet is still a young and unruly place and we as a culture of manufacturers and consumers are still finding our way. On the service front with CCH, my own experience was it took a combination of phone, snailmail, and email over months to get a piece repaired and back in my hands. Many others have had the same experience. But that isn't necessarily new, but has pretty much been part of the character of CCH all along. Both consumers and retailers have been expressing frustration with them for years.

Given they put out a product with high demand, CCH has always been in a position to organize and work in a "lifestyle" of their choice which appears to be more that of artisans than manufacturers. And that's fine until they run into problems and then, unfortunately for them and us, they pretty much have to step up to the plate of both acknowledging us as good customers and doing what any manufacturer has to do to insure products with potential problems do not harm consumers. Even a minor application of statistics would suggest there is at least some product sitting in stores and on folks' racks that is less than up to snuff between the brazing and axle hole problems. We are simply looking to Dave and CCH to step up to the plate, take the hit, and deal with it just as BD, Trango, Metolius, Petzl, and everyone else has periodically had to over the years. We need Dave, CCH, and Aliens - we also need them to meet us halfway on these issues and from the look of Kevin's post I think we can say Dave has just taken a first and right step in that direction. Kudos to Dave! And also to Kevin...


bobruef


Jan 6, 2006, 7:04 PM
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In reply to:
but has pretty much been part of the character of CCH all along...

:lol: character :lol:

kind of like that one friend who you always have to explain as:

"Oh that's just ___ " or "Thats just how ___ is"

...which really just means that they are an a-hole.


daithi


Jan 6, 2006, 7:05 PM
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In reply to:
He also graciously offered to pay for the testing.

In reply to:
Props to Dave.
In reply to:
Well, this is a good start for Dave. Hope he continues in this vein.
In reply to:
I'd like to say kudos to CCH, and thank you for stepping up to the plate.

Are you people for real? Neither Dave nor CCH as a company deserve any praise whatsoever on how this has been handled to date. The onus is completely on CCH to have this cam tested and to determine the cause of failure. Did you honestly expect Kevin to have to pay for it or arrange it himself?

In reply to:
Ugly: not checking his email at all in 5 days.

I continue to be astounded by the complete lack of professionalism demonstrated by this company especially operating in such a litigious culture as the US. Knowing that one of your products has potentially failed, and that the person is likely to be contacting you imminently, and not checking your email is negligent in the extreme. For a company whose entire market is dependent on people having complete faith in their ability to manufacture their product correctly, I can't imagine how this could have been handled much worse.


tradgal


Jan 6, 2006, 7:27 PM
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For goodness sake...

People ask for a reaction from CCH. They get it, but aren't satisfied.

People ask for the piece to be tested by an independent lab. It's being tested by a company in Denver. Yet, the crowds still aren't happy.

People ask for Dave to pay for the test, and he is. Yet, we begin to question the lab.

Mgear makes a great statement about their standpoint, and people complain about the number of cams they offered to test.

Insaino emails instead of calling, we complain (myself included).

Dave needs to read every single post on the subject.

Dave needs to check his email.

He needs new PR and law people on his side. Some have even offered services.

He is not professional enough, or polite enough and he probably doesn't eat right, speeds on the highway, brings his dog to the crag, burps in public, doesn't cover his mouth when he sneezes....blah...blah...blah...

It seems as though this man is never going to make anyone happy. What is this? A witch-hunt? We can complain until the cows come home about this was handled, but it's all water under the bridge. Let's all just try to stick to the main concern--safety!!! And, we will know more as soon as the piece in question is tested and as soon as mgear gets their test results from random batch samples.


clayman


Jan 6, 2006, 7:33 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
He also graciously offered to pay for the testing.

In reply to:
Props to Dave.
In reply to:
Well, this is a good start for Dave. Hope he continues in this vein.
In reply to:
I'd like to say kudos to CCH, and thank you for stepping up to the plate.

Are you people for real? Neither Dave nor CCH as a company deserve any praise whatsoever on how this has been handled to date. The onus is completely on CCH to have this cam tested and to determine the cause of failure. Did you honestly expect Kevin to have to pay for it or arrange it himself?

In reply to:
Ugly: not checking his email at all in 5 days.

I continue to be astounded by the complete lack of professionalism demonstrated by this company especially operating in such a litigious culture as the US. Knowing that one of your products has potentially failed, and that the person is likely to be contacting you imminently, and not checking your email is negligent in the extreme. For a company whose entire market is dependent on people having complete faith in their ability to manufacture their product correctly, I can't imagine how this could have been handled much worse.

I do understand your frustration. And maybe I should be more angry at CCH, I guess I really want this to just end in a manner that preserves my Aliens (I love them so). This could be wishful thinking on my part however. I was certainly as shocked as you were, at Dave's initial, very poor, response to all this. But, beyond any problems with communication and turn around time for repairs, what other real credible evidence is there for critically defective Aliens? This situation seems to be the real deal, and surely it gives plenty of ammunition to those who previously claimed Alien failure. Nevertheless, those other cases are still circumstantial, there hasn't been, to my knowledge, any tangible proof of failure except for this case. If I'm wrong... I would like to know. Because at the end of the day, failure like this Orange, is all I f'n care about.

cl


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 7:39 PM
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bobruef and daithi,

I think we can safely say the majority of us, including loyalists, haven't been happy with what has gone down and how. And I agree the onus is completely on Dave and CCH to rectify the situation of both this incident and the longer term issues it raises. But Dave's just taken a long turnaround step from "hoax" to an independent testing lab and I think that is actually a big first step on what we can all hope will be a longer road of positive changes at CCH. If you look at my posts I have been hard after this whole subject all along and not in the "loyalist" camp, but here I simply think that it should be acknowledged that he has taken that step after all the online hurlyburly we've been tossing his way in the process of going over all this here on RC. Is anything a done deal? No, but between CCH, us as consumers, fellow industry manufacturers, and involved retailers like MGear and REI I have high hopes the whole situation can be turned around and confidence can be restored in their product and company.


bobruef


Jan 6, 2006, 7:42 PM
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tradgal, I don't know about you, but I'd like this incident (unlike the other cch incidents) to come to a positive conclusion. People on this site were rightfully concerned that CCH would handle this properly. I never questioned the lab's integrity, on the contrary, I'm sure it is a good lab. Wouldn't you feel better to hear someone say "Hey, I've worked with that lab in Denver, and they are A+++"

I will be thrilled when the exact nature of the problem is identified, and extrapolated upon the population of cams in the hands of consumer. We don't want a fuzzy or inconclusive ending to this. Four of my aliens at home were manufactured in 05, and rather than ebay them and get C3's,

I'd like to see this work out, and when/if it does, I will be the first to cheer "horay for CCH handling this problem".

On the other hand, things like this shouldn't ever recieve this much attention, because the manufacturer should be able to be trusted to handle the situation on their own.


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 7:42 PM
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duped...!


bobruef


Jan 6, 2006, 7:43 PM
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oops duplicates!


bobruef


Jan 6, 2006, 7:43 PM
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oops duplicates!


wings


Jan 6, 2006, 7:44 PM
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In reply to:
It seems as though this man is never going to make anyone happy. What is this? A witch-hunt? We can complain until the cows come home about this was handled, but it's all water under the bridge. Let's all just try to stick to the main concern--safety!!! And, we will know more as soon as the piece in question is tested and as soon as mgear gets their test results from random batch samples.

Not everyone is complaining. Some of us are just watching the show, seeing how it will end.

However, the ending is not always the most important thing. How you get there is also very relevant.

- Seyil


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 7:45 PM
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bobruef and daithi,

I think we can safely say the majority of us, including loyalists, haven't been happy with what has gone down and how. And I agree the onus is completely on Dave and CCH to rectify the situation of both this incident and the longer term issues it raises. But Dave's just taken a long turnaround step from "hoax" to an independent testing lab and I think that is actually a big first step on what we can all hope will be a longer road of positive changes at CCH. If you look at my posts I have been hard after this whole subject all along and not in the "loyalist" camp, but here I simply think that it should be acknowledged that he has taken that step after all the online hurlyburly we've been tossing his way in the process of going over all this here on RC. Is anything a done deal? No, but between CCH, us as consumers, fellow industry manufacturers, and involved retailers like MGear and REI I have high hopes the whole situation can be turned around and confidence can be restored in their product and company.


saxfiend


Jan 6, 2006, 7:50 PM
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I've been reading this saga with great interest; I don't use aliens now, but may add them to my TCUs and Camalots in the future, so the outcome matters to me.

Here's my observation of something that's kind of been lost in the shuffle: the civilized way insainio handled himself. He was called a troll, accused of manufacturing a hoax and assumed to have ulterior motives, but he never got emotional and talked shit about CCH or anyone else. He told us what happened, backed it up with numerous pictures, answered all questions anyone posed to him and made reasonable attempts from the start to communicate with the manufacturer.

Congratulations on your cool head, Kevin. If I could rate posts, I'd give one or more of yours a trophy.

JL


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 7:52 PM
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John, agreed - I'll rate it for you...


bobruef


Jan 6, 2006, 7:54 PM
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In reply to:
I've been reading this saga with great interest; I don't use aliens now, but may add them to my TCUs and Camalots in the future, so the outcome matters to me.

Here's my observation of something that's kind of been lost in the shuffle: the civilized way insainio handled himself. He was called a troll, accused of manufacturing a hoax and assumed to have ulterior motives, but he never got emotional and talked s--- about CCH or anyone else. He told us what happened, backed it up with numerous pictures, answered all questions anyone posed to him and made reasonable attempts from the start to communicate with the manufacturer.

Congratulations on your cool head, Kevin. If I could rate posts, I'd give one or more of yours a trophy.

JL

I'll second that, nice job insano. I'll come back to this thread on a trophy day, and trophy him.

I will say thank you also, insano, for making every one of my posts with a reference to you sound like a monologue from Smackdown.


tradgal


Jan 6, 2006, 7:58 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
It seems as though this man is never going to make anyone happy. What is this? A witch-hunt? We can complain until the cows come home about this was handled, but it's all water under the bridge. Let's all just try to stick to the main concern--safety!!! And, we will know more as soon as the piece in question is tested and as soon as mgear gets their test results from random batch samples.

Not everyone is complaining. Some of us are just watching the show, seeing how it will end.

However, the ending is not always the most important thing. How you get there is also very relevant.

- Seyil

Possibly I should have said "Everyone" instead of "anyone." But I tried to make it a point to call myself out and not include everyone by writing "people." instead.

That beside the point...Everyone makes mistakes, and as demonstrated, CCH has as well. But every time CCH makes a step in the right direction, ei: responding, offering to pay for testing, calling insaino back even though CCH didn't email (and may have never seen email) some people still aren't happy. You can't change the way things have been handled thus far. My point: to stop complaining about how things have been handled up until this point, and wait for the results of testing.

Afterall, this is all about safety, not a witchhunt for a partiular brand or company.

Edited to add: This isn't a witchhunt against Insaino either (though I have questioned him, as well as others).


wings


Jan 6, 2006, 8:17 PM
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In reply to:
You can't change the way things have been handled thus far.

You also can't expect people to forget the way things have been handled thus far.

In reply to:
Did you ever hear the philosophy that once a man admits he's wrong, he's immediately forgiven for all wrong-doings?

In reply to:
Man, get outta my face with that shit! The motherfucker who said that never had to pick up itty-bitty pieces of skull with his fingers on account of your dumb ass.

- Seyil

Edited to add - I don't want people labelling me as "pro-CCH" or "con-CCH". Like I said, I'm waiting to see how this all turns out. However, the actions of the past will not be wiped clean at the end of all this. I'm glad CCH seems to be taking a step in the right direction. They have a lot of damage control to do, in my opinion.


epic_ed


Jan 6, 2006, 8:25 PM
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Dave, thanks for a solid step in the right direction.

In reply to:
Here's my observation of something that's kind of been lost in the shuffle: the civilized way insainio handled himself. He was called a troll, accused of manufacturing a hoax and assumed to have ulterior motives, but he never got emotional and talked s--- about CCH or anyone else. He told us what happened, backed it up with numerous pictures, answered all questions anyone posed to him and made reasonable attempts from the start to communicate with the manufacturer.

Congratulations on your cool head, Kevin. If I could rate posts, I'd give one or more of yours a trophy.

JL

Absolutely agreed.

Ed


Partner cracklover


Jan 6, 2006, 8:44 PM
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In reply to:
anyways, this is silly. even the idea that one should bounce test their cams before using them is utterly and completely ludicrous.

I happen to disagree. In fact, if nothing else comes of this, I'm happy that my complacency has been pointed out to me. When it comes down to it, it's *my* life on the line. Lawsuits don't mean shit. Money won't make being a paraplegic a whole lot more fun.

GO


majid_sabet


Jan 6, 2006, 8:59 PM
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There are always risks involved with mechanical devices used in climbing . Each manufacture after making such a protections and or devices leaves a percentage for comebacks, defect, etc. If a manufacture says that their products are 100% bullet proof, they lie. We all know that. So few % is normal, the only questions remains is this that; which item out of these unknown percentage is going to be in your system.


dudemanbu


Jan 6, 2006, 9:01 PM
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Trophy.

In reply to:
In reply to:
anyways, this is silly. even the idea that one should bounce test their cams before using them is utterly and completely ludicrous.

I happen to disagree. In fact, if nothing else comes of this, I'm happy that my complacency has been pointed out to me. When it comes down to it, it's *my* life on the line. Lawsuits don't mean s---. Money won't make being a paraplegic a whole lot more fun.

GO


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 9:23 PM
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In reply to:
There are always risks involved with mechanical devices used in climbing, especially. Each manufacture after making such a protections and or devices leaves a percentage for comebacks, defect, etc. If a manufacture says that their products are 100% bullet proof, they lie. We all know that. So few % is normal, the only questions remains is this that; which item out of these unknown percentage is going to be in your system.

A "few %" is certainly not normal and the only questions that count are how you prevent bad product from getting not only out the door but from one manufacturing step to the next and how you should react if some do. Fortunately both are actually well understood in today's manufacturing and QA circles...

Look up "Six Sigma"...


daithi


Jan 6, 2006, 9:23 PM
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I think this sums it up beautifully,

In reply to:
any brand for which this (bounce testing) starts to seem like a good idea is doing something seriously wrong.

I am taking a flight out of London tomorrow morning with United Airlines. Will I be performing my own pre flight walk around checks or asking to see the flight log to make sure all the critical snags from the last flight have been repaired and signed off? Absolutely not. I have faith in the checks that are already in place in the industry.

The idea of random people who have absolutely no idea what they're looking for, inspecting brazed joints for their structural integrity or attempting to perform a static pull test on their new cams of a few kN to make sure they are safe is completely ludicrous. Petzl manages to individually test a lot of their products like biners, ascenders etc. The burden of quality assurance definitely should not have to fall on the consumer. From an engineering perspective this is complete lunacy!


davidji


Jan 6, 2006, 9:35 PM
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In reply to:
Look up "Six Sigma"...
The most stringent climbing gear QA claim I've seen is BD who used to claim 3-sigma on their website. Don't know if they still have 3-sigma QA but I didn't see any mention of it lately. While that's seems pretty good for gear manufacturers (and BD seems to have shipped high quality gear for a long time), you can still expect to see defective units.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong (and maybe even if I'm right), but I think with 3-sigma you expect to ship a few defective units per thousand, while with 6-sigma you expect to ship a few defective units per million.


healyje


Jan 6, 2006, 9:41 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Look up "Six Sigma"...
The most stringent climbing gear QA claim I've seen is BD who used to claim 3-sigma on their website. Don't know if they still have 3-sigma QA but I didn't see any mention of it lately. While that's seems pretty good for gear manufacturers (and BD seems to have shipped high quality gear for a long time), you can still expect to see defective units.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong (and maybe if I'm right), but I think with 3-sigma you expect to ship a few defects per thousand, while with 6-sigma you expect to ship a few defects per million.

Six Sigma being the operating rubric, see http://gpsinformation.net/main/errors.htm for an example of 3 sigma...


bobruef


Jan 6, 2006, 9:48 PM
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I believe three sigma refers to three standard deviations from the mean, meaning that in a normal distribution, any failures would occur less than one percent of the time.

My statistics is a bit rough, but I think thats the gist of it.

Best conceptualized viewing a graph with a bell curve normal distribution, and sigma markings


bobruef


Jan 6, 2006, 9:52 PM
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oh, by the way a standard deviation (or sigma) means the amount by which any given number in a set is likely to deviate from the mean (average).

In a normal distribution (natural, or typical), something like 65 percent of the population would fall within one sigma, 95 within two, and 99 within three


brianinslc


Jan 6, 2006, 10:12 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Look up "Six Sigma"...
The most stringent climbing gear QA claim I've seen is BD who used to claim 3-sigma on their website. Don't know if they still have 3-sigma QA but I didn't see any mention of it lately. While that's seems pretty good for gear manufacturers (and BD seems to have shipped high quality gear for a long time), you can still expect to see defective units.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong (and maybe even if I'm right), but I think with 3-sigma you expect to ship a few defective units per thousand, while with 6-sigma you expect to ship a few defective units per million.

Sorta...

BD uses "3 sigma" to set the rating for their gear. In other words, when they make a batch of carabiners, they test to failure a number of them, and then they use those numbers to calculate "3 sigma", ie, three standard deviations from the mean of the testing. Then they rate the biners based on the mean minus "3 sigma". Then, as an added check, they proof test to half of that rated strength.

So, you might expect less than 2 out of a 1000 to be outside the lower 3 sigma rated strength. And, for a "tight" sigma, that might not be a significant amount.

Their 3 sigma explanation is still on their website (I posted it below).

6 sigma, in industry, is typically just 3 sigma on either side of the bell curve. So, a lot of times, when folks are talking "3 sigma" and "6 sigma", they're kinda saying the same thing. They may look at any data points outside 2 or 3 sigma to try to understand the variation in a process, for example. And that's usually assumed to be 2 or 3 sigma on each side of the bell curve of data.

"6 sigma" is also kind of an industry buzz phrase for the method of looking at process variation. Process capability and such.

Brian in SLC

From BDEL:

THREE SIGMA RATING SYSTEM
Make it a point to know as much as possible about your equipment. The strength ratings on climbing gear are there to give you clear and conservative information, but the meanings of ratings given by different companies can vary depending on how manufacturers interpret their data. To rate our climbing gear with a meticulous degree of accuracy, Black Diamond uses a rigorous rating standard called Three Sigma. Here's how Three Sigma works.

Example: Carabiner Ratings
Engineers test a random sample of carabiners under international standards using a machine called a tensile tester, which literally stretches the carabiners until they break. They determine the average, or mean, breaking strength of the batch. From this data they also calculate the average deviation from the mean, called the "standard deviation," symbolized by the Greek letter sigma. The standard deviation represents the variation of breaking strengths within a given group of samples. If the biners are rated three standard deviations less than the average breaking strength, 99.87% of the biners will be stronger than the rating.

So let's say we break 20 biners with an average strength of 6000 lb, and with a standard deviation of 100 lb. The Three Sigma rating would be 6000 - (3 x 100), or 5700 lb. The Three Sigma standard tells us that only 2 in a batch of 1000 biners might not meet the 5700 lb rating.


jt512


Jan 6, 2006, 10:12 PM
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In reply to:
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong (and maybe even if I'm right), but I think with 3-sigma you expect to ship a few defective units per thousand, while with 6-sigma you expect to ship a few defective units per million.

"Defective" is the wrong word to use, IMO. If the mean strength is say 10 kN and 1 SD (ie, 1 sigma) is 1 kN, then using a 3-sigma policy for assiging strenght ratings, the piece would be rated "7 kN", and you would expect 0.13% of units not meet the rated strength. I put "7 kN" in quotations for a reason: it's just an arbitrary rating. The piece will likely be stronger, but there is a 0.13% chance that it won't be. But that's all 3- or 6-sigma really is: an arbitrary policy for assigning a rating, in this case, for strength. Units that don't meet the rating aren't necessarily defective; they're just the ones in the left tail of the curve. Of course, there could be real defectives, too.

Jay


brianinslc


Jan 6, 2006, 10:22 PM
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In reply to:
"Defective" is the wrong word to use, IMO. If the mean strength is say 10 kN and 1 SD (ie, 1 sigma) is 1 kN, then using a 3-sigma policy for assiging strenght ratings, the piece would be rated "7 kN", and you would expect 0.13% of units not meet the rated strength. I put "7 kN" in quotations for a reason: it's just an arbitrary rating. The piece will likely be stronger, but there is a 0.13% chance that it won't be. But that's all 3- or 6-sigma really is: an arbitrary policy for assigning a rating, in this case, for strength. Units that don't meet the rating aren't necessarily defective; they're just the ones in the left tail of the curve. Of course, there could be real defectives, too.

Exactly. Inherent process variation. Expected.

As well, BD is smart to proof test their gear to ensure they don't have any gross defects. Carabiner example from their site posted below.

Brian in SLC

Example:
CARABINER MANUFACTURING & TESTING
Confidence in your carabiners means confidence in your climbing. The last thing you should be thinking about when nearing the crux is whether or not your last clip was bomber or not. To earn your trust in our gear we go to great lengths to produce only the strongest, highest-quality biners possible. All Black Diamond carabiners start as 7075 aluminum alloy, which is delivered in stacks of 12-foot rods. To make our carabiner bodies, we then cut the 7075 stock to length, bend it, cold forge it and stamp the gate ends and gate notches in a two step process that allows us to hold close tolerances. Biner bodies are then heat treated in our state of the art heat-treating ovens to give them the right blend of toughness and strength. The gate material, also heat-treated, is cut, drilled and milled to shape on an automatic gate machine. Both parts are then tumbled and polished to the smoothest sheen. The carabiners are assembled on the assembly line and each one is run through our custom engineered Carabiner Testing Machine (CTM) which tests the gate action, pulls the biner to ½ its rated strength, performs a photo-imaging comparison analysis and stamps a date code. Several carabiners from each batch manufactured are then tested to destruction to allow a statistical analysis to be performed, ensuring that the biners made are meeting the required strength ratings.


davidji


Jan 6, 2006, 10:23 PM
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In reply to:
"Defective" is the wrong word to use, IMO. If the mean strength is say 10 kN and 1 SD (ie, 1 sigma) is 1 kN...
That sounds right. I had forgotten that they were using it for their strength ratings, not for overall defects.


wings


Jan 6, 2006, 10:59 PM
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In reply to:
The carabiners are assembled on the assembly line and each one is run through our custom engineered Carabiner Testing Machine (CTM) which tests the gate action, pulls the biner to ½ its rated strength, performs a photo-imaging comparison analysis and stamps a date code. Several carabiners from each batch manufactured are then tested to destruction to allow a statistical analysis to be performed, ensuring that the biners made are meeting the required strength ratings.

This makes me feel warm and fuzzy.

- Seyil


chossmonkey


Jan 6, 2006, 11:53 PM
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In reply to:
Mgear makes a great statement about their standpoint, and people complain about the number of cams they offered to test.


In reply to:
And, we will know more as soon as the piece in question is tested and as soon as mgear gets their test results from random batch samples.



I don't think anyone is complaining that MGear is going to test some cams. Bad brazes made by competent people should be rare. While it is possible that they will test a bad one, it is far more likely that the cams they test will not be defective.

Most likely nothing will be proved or disproved by testing such a small number.


antiqued


Jan 7, 2006, 12:46 AM
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Healyje

While I can't have really read and studied all of the postings, I agree that the reported cam lobe drilling problems are very, very troubling. This new issue is troubling also - and unlike the Feb post, the OP produces pictures, responds reasonably and repeatedly, and I hope my post didn't impugn his reputation.

But the crowd here obviously spends all of its day on the computer - my job is that way also, but I bet that Dave and his people do not - they spend their time drilling, grinding, packing ...not browsing.

The questions posed here are mostly good and should be answered, but I see a crowd frenzy which feeds on itself, then will probably peak and wash away, in a time scale that can't match the "real world".

I need to go sharpen some picks to remain eligible to contribute here.


insainio


Jan 7, 2006, 4:24 AM
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Hey everyone,

I wanted to let you in on another interesting little factoid that I learned today. The e-mail address listed on cch's website is old and no longer in use.

Their new e-mail address is: cchaliens@aol.com

Thought you might want to know.

Kevin


cruzinsouthoc


Jan 7, 2006, 7:56 AM
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I actually took time to read many of the posts on this thread and am anxiously awaiting the results of CCH's testing. I'm interested to see what they find since I also have CCH's on my rack.

I noticed some recent posts about 3sigma ratings on BD's gear..honestly, being a structural engineer, that is why I started buying BD gear years ago when I got into climbing. I like to get the warm and fuzzies and 3sigma versus "average failure" loads give me the warm & fuzzies.

What I really wanted to find out is whether or not (I may have missed it in the thread) how CCH rates their gear and what quality control standards they use for manufacturing their gear was mentioned anywhere. Do they test each of their cams (or even a percentage of them) before they leave their shop?

I would never accuse any manufacturer, especially one that had such a loyal following as CCH, to have poor manufacturing, but good quality control and testing minimize the number of faulty products that leave the manufacturing line. The truth is there will be some bad products that leave the line, but efforts need to be in place to minimize the number.


majid_sabet


Jan 7, 2006, 8:20 AM
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A "few %" is certainly not normal and the only questions that count are how you prevent bad product from getting not only out the door but from one manufacturing step to the next and how you should react if some do. Fortunately both are actually well understood in today's manufacturing and QA circles...

Look up "Six Sigma"...
I agree with your comment. My background is in Aircraft repairs and I worked on Airplanes and in both Mfg and QA. In many cases especially the engine parts. We used to send the aluminum parts for an x-ray because some of the hair line cracks and defects cannot be detected thru human eyes. Welding, soldering, cutting and making many climbing gears has its own problems and again there should be zero tolerances for defect in climbing and safety equipments but is this truly happening? Anyway, I like to know from a mfg representative that how many thousands of gear they sell every year and how many defects they get back.

Cheers


ronolsen


Jan 7, 2006, 9:12 AM
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In reply to:
I wanted to let you in on another interesting little factoid that I learned today. The e-mail address listed on cch's website is old and no longer in use.

Their new e-mail address is: cchaliens@aol.com

...which explains why people haven't been getting responses to email queries.

Having a bad email address in the "Contact CCH" section of their website isn't the smartest way to run a business. I wonder if the "Send Message" form on http://www.aliencamsbycch.com/contact.html has been fixed to use the new email address?


socalclimber


Jan 7, 2006, 2:37 PM
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Nope, just checked the HTML. Same old address. Might be a good idea if they took the 5 minutes to fix something pretty simple that would certainly help their customer relations.

Robert


dingus


Jan 7, 2006, 2:49 PM
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That would explain the 'never got the email...'

DMT


socalclimber


Jan 7, 2006, 3:55 PM
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In reply to:
That would explain the 'never got the email...'

DMT

That it would.


mheyman


Jan 7, 2006, 4:19 PM
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The problems reported about Aliens and CCH are indeed serious.
I’m an engineer and kind of a gear head. I have been climbing for a bit over ten years. During that time information from CCH has never been easily available. It has been my impression that at least until recently they were a garage manufacturer, and that although their basic design may be very good. CCH has never appeared to be technically savvy in the use of technology. This has not prevented me from buying, owning or using Aliens in the past.

Many of us have seen their web site.
Most of us have seen their responses that include almost no technical information, manufacturing, testing, and product assurance.

Here are my current thoughts:
I am afraid that CCH’s lack of any reassuring informative response may be because good technical information may simply not be available.

Certainly the rest of the manufacturing world has taken note of the importance and rallied around, and even required things like testing, traceabillity, and response to manufacturing problems with programs such as ISO. It is possible that it is only CCH’s marketing and publicity that is suffering, But, at this time I have to wonder whether there is anyone at CCH who is knowledgeable in these technical areas. Virtually all the engineers I have worked with for the past 20 years are familiar with technology and its uses. Most companies are proud of their improvement and make it a point to use their programs in their marketing. I have to wonder strongly at this time why CCH has not done this.

If it is true that CCH has not been manufacturing to modern standards, then I think that it is time for CCH to bring itself into the modern manufacturing world, by using engineering in design and manufacturing to assure quality product, and generally do what is necessary to maintain their reputation. Personally I won’t hold it against them for being decidedly low tech in the past. But I do hope that they use this wakeup call and opportunity to either provide the kind of reassuring information we are looking for, or admit that they have not done this in the past, but and will guarantee that all future product will be manufactured to modern standards.

If CCH cannot or will not do this, then as introduced in this thread, then I hope they do sell the Alien design and rights to a company that can and will.


socalclimber


Jan 7, 2006, 7:39 PM
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Interesting points. One thing I would like to point out, while CCH does have a loyal following (include me), they do produce fairly "niche" gear, i.e., limited market, therfore, limited profits. Heading down the road you are speaking of is expensive. My guess, it's not their unwillingness, but their lack of funds.

With all this said, it does not excuse their pathetic response to the "accusations". Again, they are now all lawyered up and, will not be responding anytime soon. Also, there is no excuse for their lack of an accurate email address on their website to post issues with inquiries regarding their products. Really unfortunate.

Robert


mheyman


Jan 7, 2006, 8:46 PM
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In reply to:
One thing I would like to point out...they do produce fairly "niche" gear, i.e., limited market, therfore, limited profits. Heading down the road you are speaking of is expensive. My guess, it's not their unwillingness, but their lack of funds.

!) I have accepted this reasoning in the past
2) But, it is not that expensive to (if necessary to hire a consultant to set up a program) do a little testing and record keeping.
3) Climbing has become far more popular and CCH has become widely distributed. The truth is that if it becomes apparent that they cannot guarantee their QC they will be dropped from REI in a flash and likely many other distributors as well.

I believe that because of the nature of the product that they offer, they must prove that they have been conforming or change their ways immediately.

Sure many including me appreciate the basic design of their product. But I don’t think any of us wants to worry about gear failure. It is, and always has been part of their job to convince us that gear failure (of their product) is not an issue. We accepted that there was there was reason to worry before. Now there is at least reason to question, and they need to do a better job – at least to convince me.


mheyman


Jan 7, 2006, 8:49 PM
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In reply to:
One thing I would like to point out...they do produce fairly "niche" gear, i.e., limited market, therefore, limited profits. Heading down the road you are speaking of is expensive. My guess, it's not their unwillingness, but their lack of funds.

!) I have accepted this reasoning in the past
2) But, it is not that expensive to (if necessary to hire a consultant to set up a program) do a little testing and record keeping.
3) Climbing has become far more popular, and CCH has become widely distributed. The truth is that if it becomes apparent that they cannot guarantee their QC, they will be dropped from REI in a flash and likely many other distributors too.

I believe that because of the nature of the product that they offer, they must prove that they have been conforming or change their ways immediately.

Sure many including me appreciate the basic design of their product. But I don’t think any of us wants to worry about gear failure. It is, and always has been part of their job to convince us that gear failure (of their product) is not an issue. We accepted that there was there was reason to worry before. Now there is at least reason to question, and they need to do a better job – at least to convince me.


socalclimber


Jan 7, 2006, 8:57 PM
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Again, some interesting points. I'm not exactly sure how to respond. I still believe that the whole process is very exspensive for them. Regardless of the sudden boom in climbing, not everyone finds the same value in aliens that I do, versus BD or Metolius. Bigger names. I guess we will just have to sit back and see what happens to rise from the ashes of this.

Again, CCH's response was really not in their best interests, or their customers.

Robert


cruzinsouthoc


Jan 7, 2006, 11:53 PM
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just because they are a small company and make niche gear doesn't mean they do not have to follow industry standards for quality control or testing.

It seems like many manufacturers rate their gear at 3 standard deviations (3 sigma) which means that less than a percent of the pieces will fail at lower than the rated load. How do we know that they don't rate their gear based on average failure load? Which means that half of all products they make will fail at a load which is lower than the rated load. They may very well use 3 Sigma or a straight safety factor... Nobody seems to know.

For quality control, they may or may not follow ISO standards... That, I don't know for sure. If they don't, then what method do they employ for quality control? Is it a visual check, do they pull test each piece or every other piece before it leaves the factory? or do they have a priest sprinkle holy water on each batch? This is something I'd like to know as well.

So if they have been employing their own method of QC and testing because they can't afford to do it in as much detail as BD or Metolius, then fine, we can't really change what they've already done. However, I still think they should be clear on how they have performed QC and load rating tests so we can all make our own judgement as to the reliability of the products.


Partner tgreene


Jan 8, 2006, 12:51 AM
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Even if this happens to have been a very isolated 1-in-a-million incident of total equipment failure, questions concerning equipment integrity are now on everyones mind, which is the last thing that any manufacturer ever wants to have to endure. -- Right or wrong, the court of public opinion is in session, and it's a capitol case!

Having worked in the manufacturing industry (as well as having invented and manufactured a number of products myself), I know firsthand what's involved in safely putting products on the market.

First off, safety comes in many forms, and in the industry in which I dealt with certifications (commercial gas cooking equipment), the most difficult aspect of receiving certs from ITL or UL was writing the checks, because it costs several thousand dollars per unit, and each and every time a product spec is changed, it has to be re-certified. This includes cosmetic enhancements! We had products that were bother certified and non-certified, as well as a complete lower cost line of equipment that was nearly identical in spec, but with a lessor warranty and no certs. For individually owned "Mom & Pop" restaurants, this was ideal, but most chains, hotels, airlines and all .gov bids required certs, as well as many insurance companies.

It was a stupid process that required sending off a full set of schematics & materials sheet, as well as a full set of diagrams and instructions that the end user would receive. Then the testing agency would make arrangements to send an inspector out to "inspect" and "certify" the equipment. This old guy would drive 5 hours each way from Chicago to spend 30-45 minutes chatting with us and then spend the last 5-10 minutes of his visit to look over the equipment and sign off on it... This cost us roughly $10,000 per SKU# that we either wanted or needed to have that magical little sticker placed on.


With all that said; when it comes to climbing equipment, we've actually been very fortunate that this industry DOES NOT have an oversight watchdog committee, because if it did, we would certainly be paying for it, and in more ways than one!

Rather than spending an average of $35-$55 for cams, we could easily be forced to pay $75-$100 per unit, in order for the manufacturers to be able to maintain the same bottom lines as they currently are (and it isn't a lucrative industry). Insurance companies, lawyers, manufacturing associations and testing labs would be eating up the difference.

To make matters worse, we're a bunch of hard-headed dirtbags that are damn well going to climb anyway, so suddenly there will be a sharp increase in the number of climbing related injuries and deaths, with climbers that will risk run-outs, because they simply couldn't afford the additional cams that were necessary to sew up the route that ultimately cost them their lives.

Due to the rapid increase in injuries and even deaths, access issues will quickly become the main focus of legal battles, insurance will skyrocket and put manufacturers out of business , and climbing will be forced "underground"... At this point the circle will be complete, and we'll be buying gear for garage manufacturers with less certs and testing, as well as sneaking through the underbrush, just so we can climb...................


Anyone that thinks I'm nuts, only needs to look as far as the firearms and tobacco industries. This same thing has devasted the commercial whitewater rafting industry as well, because of the drastic $$$ increase of permits, certs, insurance and lawsuits! :evil:


mheyman


Jan 8, 2006, 1:48 PM
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In reply to:
Anyone that thinks I'm nuts, only needs to look as far as the firearms and tobacco industries. This same thing has devasted the commercial whitewater rafting industry as well, because of the drastic $$$ increase of permits, certs, insurance and lawsuits!

Tim you're not nuts, but I think your figures are a little high. If they were not then all the other major brand cams would already be near the costs you are estimating. EX: BD is ISO, pull tests, and carries the CE mark. Right? Their cams don’t cost over $100 for the sizes that Aliens compete with.

For one thing the testing industry is becoming competitive. I used to use UL. Now I have several testing bodies to choose from which are all faster and less expensive than UL used to be, and as a result UL is trying to keep it's customers by keep pace with them. Once a good lawsuit has occurred, then a climbing companies insurance rates will reflect that too – and it won’t be less expensive than decent QC.

IN CCH’s case there have only been a few changes over the years. I am sure they could get the whole product line approve in on pass and fee. This would have had to be done for each of the changes as you state. What they really need to do is go ISO, and pull test each unit to be sure that no really major defects get out. OK going ISO will cost them a bit, but they need to do it if they haven’t.

For those that don’t know, ISO is a program to which at least ensures traceabillity to at least the batch level, and lays out a program of response to problems.


healyje


Jan 8, 2006, 2:14 PM
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CCH probably doesn't need a full blown ISO / Six Sigma / CE program though one would be nice. It also doesn't have to be rocket science. You could just make a negative jig for each cam size with a axle and every run on the CNC cutting cam lobes you take one of the first ones and see if it fits in the jig befor making a shit load of them. Then after assembling the cams really look at them hard and pull test each and every one so we don't have to bounce test them before climb on them. There are certainly other things they could do and probably should, but even those two simple things woul improve the situation at hand enormously.


Partner tgreene


Jan 8, 2006, 3:33 PM
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Keep in mind, that many of the companies that are already seeking certs and standardization, are owned by huge corporate conglomerates or like Trango, work with a manufacturing partner to defray costs. Quite possibly the best thing for CCH, would be to partner up w/ Trango and their Czech manufacturing partner.

Also, what testing is done at this point, is voluntary, as there are no federal or industry requirements in place. Once this happens (and it's only a matter of time), it will automatically create an industry position for specialized insurances and attorneys, along with "mandatory" costly oversite organizations and peer groups... That's when we'll begin to see the skyrocketing costs of gear, and the negative effects that come with it.

Each and every time I tie in, I unconditionally accept 100% full and total responsibility for what may happen to me at any given moment. I'm also aware that no matter how stringent some manufacturers testing practices may be, nothing is perfect, and rocks fragment and release gear all the time... That's just a part of the game that we play, albeit the very negative part!

Numerous responses have been made in regards to Chouinard's mistakes, but I doubt they really know the truth about what killed the company that will forever be remembered in the form of the Black Diamond logo. Chouinard was sued into oblivion because of some dumbass that untied himself to take a piss, while resting on the ledge of a guided climb. When he was done, he didn't tie back in properly, and eventually fell to his death. The lawyers were fighting each other to get to the family, and eventually everyone but Chouinard and the dead guy won...

The same thing nearly happened to me in 1993, when my own ignorance cost me a 75 foot fall and a broken back. Immediately after being Life Flighted into Pittsburgh, numerous members of the medical staff STRONGLY suggested I get a lawyer immediately to sue Black Diamond and the store where I bought my gear, that happened to be owned by a good friend. To make matters worse, reporters kept calling and trying to visit me while I was in the Neuro ICU ward, and they all said the same thing, to varrying degrees... It seemed that damn near everyone had suggestions on who should be sued, and why. {see RED text above}

FWIW: The NRA was once a small struggling group like the 'Access Fund', but as legislation increased, they quickly become corporate whores themselves. As much as I despise the NRA for what they've become, I had no alternative but to support them when I owned a high-end tactical firearms store, even though our classification was always the first to be sold down the river, anytime the political heat was on.


Now, I'm certainly not dismissing what happened with the CCH Aliens in questions, but I do believe this witch hunt needs to be toned way down. I also feel that it would be in the best interest of all of us, if the climbing industry were to stay away from testing labs and certification standards such as UL/ITE/ISO/etc, and instead work together to devise and adopt their own industry wide system that is based on peer review and ethics. Ths is a very close knit community where most of these guys are friends and/or climbing partners of one another, so it shouldn't be too difficult for them to hold a round table on the subject. We've already seen that Paul Fish and Mal Daly have been following this closely, because regardless of the company in question, this ultimately affects each and every one of us.

Before this incident arose, I was on the fence between Aliens and Zero's for my micros, and to be honest, I shifted to the Zero's, but still would love to have a set of Hybrids because of the tapered cracks that are so common here in the Arkansas sandstone. If one were to lean towards "brand loyalty", it would honestly be difficult to climb anything other than BD, Metolius or WC, because of the ultra-wide ranges of gear they manufacture. This is also why it's virtually impossible (and not wise) to put one company or another on such a high pedestal. Personally, aside from my 2 BD Airlock Screwgates and 6 Metolius Super-ovals, all of my other biners (roughly 60) are Trango Classic wires/locks/straight gates. I love the flat profile, and have modified all of my QD's to be a Classic wiregate on the rope end, and a Classic straight-gate on the bolt side -- {it's actually a shame they don't sell them like this!} My anchor draws are setup as Trango Classic lockers on the bolt side, and the Metolius Super-ovals on the rope end because I like the extra beefy radius for smooth rope feeds that don't create drag. As for belay devices, I own many, but since I bought a B-52, the others have essentially become paper weights. (BTW: my 75' fall was on an ATC while on rap)

My cams are Trango Flexi's (not the newest style), supplimented by Ball Nutz, and I have a set of Zero's on the way (late Christmas gift). I also have a Metolius Supercam to cover a wide range as a last resort. I would love to add another set of Trango cams to double up on the large 5, but due to the lack of funds (the hurricanes fucked us up financially), it will be quite a while before I'm able to do so. :(

If you can get past my rambling, my point is pretty clear.........................!


Partner tgreene


Jan 8, 2006, 3:43 PM
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In reply to:
CCH probably doesn't need a full blown ISO / Six Sigma / CE program though one would be nice. It also doesn't have to be rocket science. You could just make a negative jig for each cam size with a axle and every run on the CNC cutting cam lobes you take one of the first ones and see if it fits in the jig befor making a s--- load of them. Then after assembling the cams really look at them hard and pull test each and every one so we don't have to bounce test them before climb on them. There are certainly other things they could do and probably should, but even those two simple things woul improve the situation at hand enormously.

PRECISELY -- basically a GO/NO-GO gauge

As for a pull testing machine, a simple hydraulic setup could be constructed from nothing more than a modified log splitter with an industrial scale on one side to guage the length of pull up to xxxx pounds. Once a setpoint is reached, a dead-man activates to release the hydraulic pressure. This would make for a very inexpensive yet efficient PASS/FAIL testing system that each and every piece of equipment could be run through. The entire system could easily be constructed for less than $2500 by someone that specializes in this sort of thing, or by anyone else with an ounce of ingenuity, for less than $1000


mheyman


Jan 8, 2006, 4:13 PM
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Don't have time to write, but but the record keeping ISO requires is not that expensive and it need to be done with or without ISO approval.


Partner tgreene


Jan 8, 2006, 4:35 PM
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I agree that accurate safety data record keeping is no more involved than what it takes to create and maintain a bill of materials, and is ESSENTIAL in the event of an investigation or lawsuit, because before anything else, it PROVES a level of proactive awareness is in place...


karlbaba


Jan 8, 2006, 4:40 PM
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Anybody's who's tried to work with CCH in the past probably realizes that they aren't a big fan of being a company, meeting the demand for their product, or responding to customers. That's their style and choice.

It seems to have reached a point where that style might cost them big money and cost somebody else much worse.

Come on CCH license your product to someobody who will produce it in quality and to meet demand. You'll probably make just as much and not have to work cause more will be sold. You can hire out as consultants on the product as well.

Everybody wins. Otherwise, with the lobe and braze defects we're seeing, it's only a matter of time before some lawyer eats you up.

BTW Aliens rule in Yosemite pin scars. I'd love to abandon them, cause they they flaked on my orders two years in a row, but nothing else works where Aliens work in Pin scars

Peace

Karl


Partner cracklover


Jan 8, 2006, 4:43 PM
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In reply to:
Each and every time I tie in, I unconditionally accept 100% full and total responsibility for what may happen to me at any given moment. I'm also aware that no matter how stringent some manufacturers testing practices may be, nothing is perfect, and rocks fragment and release gear all the time... That's just a part of the game that we play, albeit the very negative part!

For the most part, I'm with you 100% on that one.

In reply to:
The same thing nearly happened to me in 1993, when my own ignorance cost me a 75 foot fall and a broken back. Immediately after being Life Flighted into Pittsburgh, numerous members of the medical staff STRONGLY suggested I get a lawyer immediately to sue Black Diamond and the store where I bought my gear, that happened to be owned by a good friend. To make matters worse, reporters kept calling and trying to visit me while I was in the Neuro ICU ward, and they all said the same thing, to varrying degrees... It seemed that damn near everyone had suggestions on who should be sued, and why. {see RED text above}

I agree that most of these lawsuits are complete BS. You get someone who's majorly messed up, thinking "why me" and feeling vulnerable, or you get a family that's searching for answers, and a lawyer approaches them and offers to get them "what they deserve", or "justice". It's human nature - they're going to reach out to those who are reaching out to them when they're feeling hurt and vulnerable. Especially families, who do not really understand the degree of personal responsibility inherant in roping up.

Even worse, some insurance companies may insist that you sue. For example, a few years ago my gf at the time was hit by a car while riding her bike. The health insurance company decided that the guy who hit her was at fault, and insisted on suing. Had she not gone along with it, she would have had to pay much of her medical bills out of pocket.

GO


curt


Jan 8, 2006, 5:35 PM
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...Come on CCH license your product to someobody who will produce it in quality and to meet demand. You'll probably make just as much and not have to work cause more will be sold. You can hire out as consultants on the product as well...

Excellent idea.

Curt


curt


Jan 8, 2006, 6:32 PM
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...your best bet is to shut up, deal with the situation offline, and never waste time on this site. Good luck!

Since you have never contributed or posted anything of value here, perhaps you should take your own advice.

Curt


leapinlizard


Jan 8, 2006, 7:02 PM
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I have a good friend that was wrapped up in a lawsuit similar to this one a couple years ago. The company for which he was a Vp at the time for, manufactured gear for another type of specialized sport. Anyway, one of the tiems that he had manufactured was done in Italy. What happened was someone that was using this particular peice of equipment had gotten hurt while using it, even though he had not used it in the correct way, and probably would have gotten hurt using it anyway this person sought out a lawsuit. The loophole he used is that the owners manual for the item didn't outline the one particular way that he misused it. The responsibility of this was supposed to fall upon the italian manufaturer, but in the long run, because of legal fees, the only company that was bankrupt was my friends, even though this person lost the lawsuit. While it is sad that anyone can be sued at any time for just about anything in this country, there still needs to be some type of accountability. CCH should have not made any statement to anyone, except to tell us that they were doing all that they could to make sure there was no danger for its clients. Beyond that, none of will probably have any consolation about this issue for a little while, since testing takes time. As a devoted Alien user, I hope that the wait is shorter rather than longer, but till then I will inspect my cams, as I usually do every so often anyways, and then I will climb on them. The only other thing I really have to say on the subject is that while I do still love my aliens, I won't be able to totally trust them till this is resolved. Anyway, I am sure there are those of you that feel the same. Cheers


saxfiend


Jan 8, 2006, 7:32 PM
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In reply to:
...your best bet is to shut up, deal with the situation offline, and never waste time on this site. Good luck!

Since you have never contributed or posted anything of value here, perhaps you should take your own advice.

Curt
Haha! Now there's a post that deserves a trophy! As usual, I don't have none . . .

JL


sixleggedinsect


Jan 9, 2006, 1:22 AM
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One thing I would like to point out, while CCH does have a loyal following (include me), they do produce fairly "niche" gear, i.e., limited market, therfore, limited profits.

i fail to see how a company who manages to sell all the stock it can make has a limited market with limited profits. even REI goes on backorder, and every lil' store between SF and boston gets an alien a year and thinks its high times.

sure, you could saturate any market, but they ain't even close. most of the places i climb, people would like an alien-BD rack. you accusing BD of being niche gear too? and then there's the rest of the world. all the import climbers i meet covet the aliens, but they can't get them for love or money on the wrong side of the pond.

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Heading down the road you are speaking of is expensive. My guess, it's not their unwillingness, but their lack of funds.

really? i don't get that impression at all.


sixleggedinsect


Jan 9, 2006, 1:31 AM
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To make matters worse, we're a bunch of hard-headed dirtbags that are damn well going to climb anyway, so suddenly there will be a sharp increase in the number of climbing related injuries and deaths, with climbers that will risk run-outs, because they simply couldn't afford the additional cams that were necessary to sew up the route that ultimately cost them their lives.

were climber injury stats significantly higher before active pro? id guess no (although it woudln't mean either of us are right). are you serious about this forecast?

i think there would be a sharp increase in the number of people toproping;)


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Jan 9, 2006, 2:16 AM
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i fail to see how a company who manages to sell all the stock it can make has a limited market with limited profits.

The limited market are those who use active protection for climbing. There is no other "market segment" that uses the product. Q Tips, for example have a more broad market. Most people stock them at home for personal use, and they can also be use for other things - cleaning nooks and crannies of an item, even as a painting tool.... Those are called "secondary markets." There are no secondary markets for climbing gear....except biners, I suppose. The number of climbers, though growing, is not a very big number, from a commercial perspective. And, thoguh I am guessing....I would say the growth is not as fast in traditional climbing, but more toward sport climbing, gym climbing and bouldering.

That they sell all their stock consistently also "costs" them money because of the added work involved in rpocessing. It's much nier when a company can pack a box, ship, invoice and collect payment. Anything additional...costs money, which comes from the overhead.

And, just because one sells all their product does not mean they are making bucketloads of cash. Everything costs money, and it all comes out of overhead. From the cost of materials to the lease on the office space, to the salary of employees...... And remember, a cam that cost $55 in the store is being shipped from the manufacturer at "somewhere" around half that cost.(I don't know retail markup for gear).

Ot's all very interesting, if you like that sort of thing. But it's pretty amazing, how quickly that $55 dwindles down to a few dollars profit per peiece sold, or even less.......


socalclimber


Jan 9, 2006, 2:23 AM
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I fail to see how a company who manages to sell all the stock it can make has a limited market with limited profits. even REI goes on backorder, and every lil' store between SF and boston gets an alien a year and thinks its high times.

sure, you could saturate any market, but they ain't even close. most of the places i climb, people would like an alien-BD rack. you accusing BD of being niche gear too? and then there's the rest of the world. all the import climbers i meet covet the aliens, but they can't get them for love or money on the wrong side of the pond.

Easy there sister, I never "accused" anyone of anything. I think either you mis-interpreted my statement or I just did a poor job of conveying my message. My point on niche gear is that aliens are not even close to "main stream" by comparison to BD or Metolius. I'm a big fan of Aliens from an aid climbing stand point. Especially the hybrids. I do use them free climbing. The vast majority of racks I see here in Josh and the valley aren't comprised of Aliens. They just are not "main stream". Meaning, I don't believe them to have the same capacity to deliver large quantities of product to a fairly limited, but, hungry following.

Robert


sixleggedinsect


Jan 9, 2006, 2:36 AM
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i fail to see how a company who manages to sell all the stock it can make has a limited market with limited profits.



That they sell all their stock consistently also "costs" them money because of the added work involved in rpocessing. It's much nier when a company can pack a box, ship, invoice and collect payment. Anything additional...costs money, which comes from the overhead.

what? selling all their stock costs money? come on, happiegirl. why are you posting this stuff? sure, reprocessing might cost a buck, but they can choose to pay that buck and reap the additional profit, or not restock and not pay the buck.

In reply to:
And, just because one sells all their product does not mean they are making bucketloads of cash. ... But it's pretty amazing, how quickly that $55 dwindles down to a few dollars profit per peiece sold, or even less.......

sure thing, happiegirl, but you're missing the point i think. im not saying the profit margin is huge. i am saying they should be getting by. plenty of other companies are doing just fine with smaller markets, or larger overhead.

were you the person who repeatedly mentioned their small business in earlier posts? if so, did you consistently sell out of everything you could stock? were people hiring you for every hour you made available? i highly, HIGHLY doubt that you would complain if that were the case.

every manufacturer has to deal with the same markups. its not like cch is the only company which has to sell to retailers at wholesale prices, and they sure aren't the folks with the most overhead.

come to think of it, i wonder why cch (with its low output and high demand) doesnt drop the retailer contracts and sell direct to consumer. they could put an extra ten bucks a cam into quality control, and still have enough left over for imported beer and six salaried co-eds for order processing and PR.


sixleggedinsect


Jan 9, 2006, 2:54 AM
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Easy there sister, I never "accused" anyone of anything. I think either you mis-interpreted my statement or I just did a poor job of conveying my message. My point on niche gear is that aliens are not even close to "main stream" by comparison to BD or Metolius. I'm a big fan of Aliens from an aid climbing stand point. Especially the hybrids. I do use them free climbing. The vast majority of racks I see here in Josh and the valley aren't comprised of Aliens.

sister what?

robert, first off- just becuase people don't have aliens on their rack doesnt mean they dont want them. where have you been for the last few threads? noticed those trends? people can't get them. small stores dont stock, and therefore don't sell them. they dont get pushed in the stores, dont need to take out big ads in the mags, and still the online stores sell out of them, each with their own little "we're sorry, we can't get them, please don't hurt us" pages when you try to order. and like i said before, even REI goes on alien backorder, i dont care what their sweetheart deal is- it happens. and across the country, ive never seen an REI with a full set of aliens in the pro case.

are you saying that if cch ramped up production it just wouldn't move? give me a break.

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They just are not "main stream".

well, i think they *are* mainstream, but they just dont put out. its not like we're talking about freakin' ballnuts here.

In reply to:
Meaning, I don't believe them to have the same capacity to deliver large quantities of product to a fairly limited, but, hungry following.

waht does that mean? you figure its the same 200 climbers replacing their alien rack every year? thats why REI sells out?


mheyman


Jan 9, 2006, 3:27 AM
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Just to note, last two times I bought small cams was at Rock and Snow - New Paltz - Gunks. Last year I bought three Zeros cause they didn't have the Alien I realy needed replaced. Then this fall I replaced one of those Zeroes and again R&S did not have an Alien so I picked up another Zero.


socalclimber


Jan 9, 2006, 3:31 AM
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waht does that mean? you figure its the same 200 climbers replacing their alien rack every year? thats why REI sells out?

Nope. Plenty of people like/want them, but if you go to any climbing area, how many aliens do you see on racks versus BD or Metolius? Not many. CCH makes great stuff, I love them. I will continue to buy them, and yes, I am very aware of the availability problems over the last year or so. My wife works at the local climbing shop, I've heard all about the constant calls to CCH inquiring about order status.

Robert


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Jan 9, 2006, 4:02 AM
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sixleggedinsect, I think you must not have ever been in business. That's fine; it's not something everyone does. But the comments you made indicate that had you ever been, it's likely that it would have been one of those 99 out of 100 that fail in the first year.

You quoted me and "snipped" a paragraph that you felt didn't relate. It was an attempt to explain to you what a"limited market" is, as you mentioned that you couldn't understand how that could be the case.

You wrote:
[q]"what? selling all their stock costs money?"[/q]
Are you being fascetious? I don't catch your drift. What I meant was, once a company is unable to keep up with the demand, then the additional work needed to deal with requests the're unable to fill begins eating away at the profit margin for the inventory they DID sell. It seems to me that it is pretty clear that CCH hasn't been able to keep up with the demand. It's not as always as simple as "You want more? Well, here, let me make more!" A business can suffer heavily when unable to keep up with growth.

You wrote:
[q]"were you the person who repeatedly mentioned their small business in earlier posts? if so, did you consistently sell out of everything you could stock? were people hiring you for every hour you made available? i highly, HIGHLY doubt that you would complain if that were the case."[/q]

I may have been the person you refer to. I do have a small business. I don't stock a product, though; I sell a service. still, it relates. Have I had growth spurts that I could not handle taking on? Absolutely. Weere people hiring me every hour available. Yes, at times. And then some. You might say "well hires someone to help!" But, if the demand is temporary, sporadic and unable to be calculated, it makes the hiring a bit of a dificult proposition. After all, it sucks to be looking for work, get hired and then get laid off in short order because the work wasn't there to sustain the employee. I choose not to hire people and then fire them when I don't need them just so I can hear the sound of more coin jingling in my pocket. You say that you would "HIGHLY doubt" I would complain? Guess what - you would be wrong. It's not always about the money, honey(didn't intend that word to be in offense).

[q]every manufacturer has to deal with the same markups. its not like cch is the only company which has to sell to retailers at wholesale prices, and they sure aren't the folks with the most overhead.[/q]
How do you know? "The most overhead" isn't measured in dollars only. It is a percentage based on many variables.

[q]come to think of it, i wonder why cch (with its low output and high demand) doesnt drop the retailer contracts and sell direct to consumer. they could put an extra ten bucks a cam into quality control, and still have enough left over for imported beer and six salaried co-eds for order processing and PR.[/q]
Selling directly to consumers would INCREASE the cost per unit. Of course, instead of selling the unit to a retailer at $25(estimate), they would be selling it to you and I at $55. But no doubt, that $30 would not be going into their pocket. They would then have to pay a lot of additional costs.

What the fuck is a "salaried co-ed????" Six employees, at what.....$10 per hour, is $60(plus employers portion of SS, and benefits....and additional expenses, etc.). $60, an hour. To deal with a bunch of maroons like you and me. How many cams, exactly, are you imagining each of these six employees are processing....per hour, five days a week, for 35 hours a week?

Why CCH wouldn't do it....well, because it would be....a bad idea, probably.

I didn't write my original post to be nasty. I honestly was simply attempting to explain a concept that a lot of people don't understand. But I found the response you made to it to be depracating, arrogant and an indication of your ignorance.


Partner tgreene


Jan 9, 2006, 4:37 AM
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To make matters worse, we're a bunch of hard-headed dirtbags that are damn well going to climb anyway, so suddenly there will be a sharp increase in the number of climbing related injuries and deaths, with climbers that will risk run-outs, because they simply couldn't afford the additional cams that were necessary to sew up the route that ultimately cost them their lives.

were climber injury stats significantly higher before active pro? id guess no (although it woudln't mean either of us are right). are you serious about this forecast?
i think there would be a sharp increase in the number of people toproping;)
Dead serious, due to the rapid growth of climbing over the past few years... Active gear has been readily available since the early 80's, and the biggest climbing boom ever has been within the past 3-5 years when it first appeared on X-Games. It also seems that lately we have climbing gyms on every corner, and now we even have Jack Osbourne "inspiring" fat drug addicts everywhere to get out and climb.


Partner tim


Jan 9, 2006, 5:24 AM
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sixleggedinsect, I think you must not have ever been in business. That's fine; it's not something everyone does. But the comments you made indicate that had you ever been, it's likely that it would have been one of those 99 out of 100 that fail in the first year.

Your statement above is equivalent to "1 out of 100 businesses survive for a year or more after opening". This has no basis in fact.

The conventional wisdom is that only about 20% of businesses remain in operation after a decade, with more than half closing in the first 4 years. A somewhat recent SBA study indicates that even this conventional wisdom may be overly conservative (the Small Business Administration, as you know, exists to make loans to small business owners, and its existence is predicated upon a reasonably low default rate for its loans).

Unless you're trolling, you might want to revise your figures, as their wild inaccuracy discredits everything else you have said (most of which I happen to agree with based on my own experience).

In reply to:
What I meant was, once a company is unable to keep up with the demand, then the additional work needed to deal with requests the're unable to fill begins eating away at the profit margin for the inventory they DID sell. It seems to me that it is pretty clear that CCH hasn't been able to keep up with the demand. It's not as always as simple as "You want more? Well, here, let me make more!" A business can suffer heavily when unable to keep up with growth.

In terms of opportunity cost, this is clearly the case, but there is no law requiring businesses to fill all demand! Your example of not hiring employees to satisfy high demand illustrates your firm grasp of this.

In all likelihood, CCH would be better off burnishing their reputation for superior small cams at the expense of unfilled orders, than losing distributors or the trust of their customers in an embarassingly public fiasco. You cannot unring a bell, and a reputation for quality, built painstakingly over many years, can be heavily if not irreversibly damaged by a noteworthy example of systematic or semi-systematic neglect for QC. A brand name with a reputation for quality is a very valuable thing -- neglect it at your peril. Raising awareness for a new brand in a crowded market, or re-establishing legitimacy for a tarnished label, is a mighty undertaking.

Unfilled orders for a product in brisk demand are much, much better than a hasty attempt to meet demand, which jeopardizes the long-term value of the brand. The brand can be licensed to another company with better manufacturing facilities if preserved, but if those orders are filled with items of suspect quality, the value of the brand (probably the greatest asset CCH has) is likely to be eroded. That's really bad business.

Given your commentary on not hiring employees cyclically only to lay them off (an H&R Block staple, for example), it's tough for me to figure out why you would seem to support erosion of their long-term asset (brand identity) for a lesser short-term gain. Perhaps I'm not reading your post correctly.


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Selling directly to consumers would INCREASE the cost per unit. Of course, instead of selling the unit to a retailer at $25(estimate), they would be selling it to you and I at $55. But no doubt, that $30 would not be going into their pocket. They would then have to pay a lot of additional costs.

Why do you say this, and moreover, why do you imply the net per-unit cost would be near or above $30? In several other markets (admittedly, smaller or more specialized markets without a 600 lb. gorilla like REI), smaller firms selling Internet-direct have, improbably, survived and even flourished, selling high quality items at somewhat reduced margins by eliminating distributors. Whether it benefits the consumer is an open question (Mgear and REI having the resources to test units is an obvious plus, the expense of those resources, a minus), but the survival of the companies (eg. Hsu subwoofers, the first that comes to mind) indicates that this is not an un-tenable proposition. eBay is another avenue that is increasingly being used by firms with a savvy consumer base, and among climbing gear manufacturers, I would hazard a guess that CCH's may be the most singleminded in their pursuit of the desired product.

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Six employees, at what.....$10 per hour, is $60(plus employers portion of SS, and benefits....and additional expenses, etc.). $60, an hour.

One additional retail-price cam, or two eliminated overheads, per hour. For most widgets this would be a trivial cashflow, but for Aliens, maybe not. When a big company (within the industry) like BD brags about dropping $1 million on a CNC laser-cutting machine, you have to wonder about the market size, but it's possible that multiple Aliens are sold per hour.

I am fairly certain that you know optional employees are better recruited as 1099's (or as a 3rd-party PR firm, call center, whatever) than retained as a $90/hr ($3600/week) salaried unit. Whether the original poster realizes this, I'll bet you do. And I think that given CCH's established brand name and word-of-mouth marketing, they might do better as a result, regardless of whether they decide to hire PR people or customer service reps or whatever. This is clearly a boutique operation, and that's exactly the sort of company that has lately been able to pull off the direct-sales approach.

Unless you are privy to the details of their cash flow, it seems like we are all just speculating, but at least this way we can attach some numbers to it and narrow down a bit to the plausible.

Far more logical would be to outsource the QC to a 3rd party lab and then brag about their independently verified 3-sigma process. If the cash flow permits it, this seems like the easiest way to turn a potential disaster into a PR coup. If not, selling the brand and licensing the patents comes to mind.

In reply to:
Why CCH wouldn't do it....well, because it would be....a bad idea, probably.

Could you elaborate? I'm not saying that you're wrong, but I don't see any evidence one way or the other, and for CCH to lose an REI distribution deal is at least as huge an opportunity cost as to outsource QA/QC to a 3rd party.
See above for the thought process; feel free to point out obvious logical flaws or inaccuracies.

I like Aliens, though they're wider than TCUs and perhaps less consistent than Camalots, Friends, or DMM products. They Just Work. However, my confidence that $45-60 per unit is money well spent has been somewhat shaken by these latest reports, and I would be more than happy to resume placing my trust in CCH cams, if only they'd handle the QA issue a bit more gracefully.

Ed Leeper issued what amounted to a recall on 20 years' worth of bolt hangers. If he can do it, and still retain his loyal (tiny) customer base, then I suspect CCH do so as well, assuming that this is even necessary. Cheaper still would be to determine what units might be defective, and deal with those individually in a limited recall -- again, assuming that a statistically significant sample can be obtained and tested. I suspect it can, and I suspect the cost is minimal compared to the FUD of this debacle.


Partner tim


Jan 9, 2006, 5:37 AM
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Keep in mind, that many of the companies that are already seeking certs and standardization, are owned by huge corporate conglomerates or like Trango, work with a manufacturing partner to defray costs. Quite possibly the best thing for CCH, would be to partner up w/ Trango and their Czech manufacturing partner.

This sure as hell seems like the logical strategy to me. Outsource manufacturing to one party, outsource QA to another, keep the patents and the brand name, and save yourself a lot of work...

Direct distribution (eg. eBay, letting the market equilibrate to the item's value) is another obvious avenue. Every time I see an Alien listed on eBay, used or new, it seems to sell for at or near retail. That's fucking amazing.

Man I hope they don't screw this up. They've got quite a racket if they just make a handful of good decisions; and depending on how long until their patent runs out, they can probably ride the gravy train for plenty long enough to survive.

JMHO


Partner tgreene


Jan 9, 2006, 5:43 AM
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I may have been the person you refer to. I do have a small business. I don't stock a product, though; I sell a service. still, it relates.

I didn't write my original post to be nasty. I honestly was simply attempting to explain a concept that a lot of people don't understand. But I found the response you made to it to be depracating, arrogant and an indication of your ignorance.
There are light years of difference between operating a dog walking service and OWNING and OPERATING and manufacturing company... Unless CCH also runs a baby sitting service on the side, then you're attempting to explain a concept that a lot of people (including yourself)don't understand.

There is a bit of a difference between booking time slots to take Snoopy for a stroll, and having to project sales far enough in advance to be able to order/receive/stock all of the raw materials necessary to manufacture and deliver a finished product. It's even worse when you have orders piling up and suddenly there are issues with your raw materials order (delivery issues, wrong materials received, employee shortages or illnesses, etc.). Now imagine that it has taken a couple months to work the bugs out, but during that time, orders have been canceled due to failure to deliver..? Suddenly you're sitting with inventoriable materials, be it raw or finished product, yet your revenue stream has dried up...

I had to sell a business in the aquatics industry because I was unable to keep up with the cost of production, and it was costing me money in the end. The reason being that I had to maintain adequate stock of materials to produce electronic controllers that retailed for $150, were sold to distributors for $90-$110 depending upon size of order, and cost me $65-$70 to manufacture, depending upon the cost of goods and size of order placed with my suppliers. If I was busting my ass and everything went smooth, I was able to turn out upwards of 20-25 units a week (not bad at all for a part-time home based business). Unfortunately though, my dealers and distributors paid on 30-45 day terms, therefore I was faced with having to burden the expenses, rather than working off of their money. As there was more and more commercial interest in my products, as well as requests for private labeling, I realized that I had to make a serious business decision... Unfortunately I waited too long, and the demand dropped off, thus I walked away with next to nothing, but at least I got out alive without having to dissolve the company, and my products continue to be manufactured (to my original specs) by another company.

I still own the rights to another line of products that I personally designed/manufactured/marketed within the firearms and outdoor industries several years back. Again, I'm no longer in a position to manufacture these, but I refuse to let this line go without substantial compensation. The main focus of this product line costs roughly $15 in raw materials & $10 in man hours to produce, retails for $100, and has been featured in Shotgun News magazine.

Unless you've been directly involved in a small manufacturing company w/ a niche product, you can't possibly begin to have a clue as to what's actually involved! Things like storm-related power outtages tend to render welding equipment and drill presses useless, and when you live in the sticks, it takes hours and even days to get power restored... That equates to costly downtime that customers could care less about! :shock:


leapinlizard


Jan 9, 2006, 7:25 AM
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waht does that mean? you figure its the same 200 climbers replacing their alien rack every year? thats why REI sells out?

Nope. Plenty of people like/want them, but if you go to any climbing area, how many aliens do you see on racks versus BD or Metolius? Not many. CCH makes great stuff, I love them. I will continue to buy them, and yes, I am very aware of the availability problems over the last year or so. My wife works at the local climbing shop, I've heard all about the constant calls to CCH inquiring about order status.

Robert
I don't want to start a fight, but I don't see many metolious cams around, exceot my own, which I like but don't love. BD's on the other hand, yeah I see those everywhere, and almost always with aliens. Honestly, if I had my choice I would climb almost exclusively with BD and aliens and then I would use HB offsets and BD hexes. Throw a couple well placed tricams in and I would be happier than a fly on sh1t.


porcelainsunset


Jan 9, 2006, 8:22 AM
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I personally just bought a set of Aliens from REI, instead of Climb Max (who I have worked for), which boast the Nations largest climbing supply, because Climb Max CAN'T GET ALIENS. PERIOD. The buyer is a friend of mine, and he wants them bad, but simply cant get them because of supply and demand in relation to honoring their previous contracts. REI and Mountain Soles has to strong of a contract, which makes it impossible for local stores to get a hold of them. Even when I went to REI I couldn't pick up every one I wanted because they where out, at both stores in my area.

My point is simply that CCH has the means to test their products more efficiently, their sales are strong enough and consistent enough. They could easily raise their prices to allow for funds to more adequately test their product. I personally would be happy to pay a few more dollars a piece to know that the gear I was buying was sound. Especially when I am paying $450 for a full set. I also think that the market reflects this as well. I don't think that this increased cost would hurt their business at all. They already can't fulfill the demand for their product.


socalclimber


Jan 9, 2006, 2:11 PM
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I don't want to start a fight, but I don't see many metolious cams around, exceot my own, which I like but don't love.

No problems. I should have re-worded that to "I see plenty of other cams on racks, just not that many aliens by comparison."

I really like the Metolius stuff in the small ranges, and BD for the larger ranges.

Robert


Partner happiegrrrl


Jan 9, 2006, 3:57 PM
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Tim:
In reply to:
Your statement above is equivalent to "1 out of 100 businesses survive for a year or more after opening". This has no basis in fact......Unless you're trolling, you might want to revise your figures, as their wild inaccuracy discredits everything else you have said (most of which I happen to agree with based on my own experience).

My bad. Splashing out numbers that I am remembering incorrectly. But I don't see a need to revise the post. You corrected it right away; it just shows my error is all. Not a big issue to me to be sen as being less than pristine.

In reply to:
Given your commentary..... it's tough for me to figure out why you would seem to support erosion of their long-term asset (brand identity) for a lesser short-term gain. Perhaps I'm not reading your post correctly.

I think you do mistake something I wrote. I'm not in favor of the erosion of brand identity. In fact, I sort of wonder if the problems HAVE occurred because the company "rushed" to comply with demand. What I have been adamant about, is my distaste for people from the outside deciding that we know how someone else should run their business, when we have little to no insight into their daily operations. Probably I am reacting this way because I have seen my own similar problems. (Luckily, not in quality problems - I have always been able to do damage control when that occurred, and yes, I ran, not walked, to right any wrongs that occurred in my company - but plenty of problems nonetheless.) And particularly regarding growth and ability to sustain it. It's very tiring, to listen with feigned patience, about how I "should" do things and how simple it all would be, and why don't I such and such. The growth causes a lot of stress, and in the last year it also conflicts with some of my other desires. Yet, I need the income...vicious cycle!

I think I probably put way to much effort into this thread, simply because it reminds me of all the issues tapping at my own shoulder, whispering in my ear, taunting me in my sleep....Calgon - take me away! And I can't help but think(because of the numerous posts and conversations I've heard and read from people in a position to know) that is partially the situation with the company this thread is about.

In reply to:
Why do you say this, and moreover, why do you imply the net per-unit cost would be near or above $30?

If a company sells product both at wholesale and retail, they need to keep the "suggested retail price" the same so they don't injure the business of their wholesale accounts. God, let's HOPE our gear suppliers don't cut out the retail stores, who provide such wonderful assistance. These small mom and pop gear stores are the ambassadors to the climbing community and many barely eek out a living. How many people stop in at Nomads to get the scoop on their first trip to JTree? To Rock and Snow when they're at the Gunks?

In reply to:
Could you elaborate?
You said this is reference to my post that CCH wouldn't "hire 6 co-eds," as sixlegs wrote, because it would be wrong. Maybe I should have inserted "I think" in there, because it really in only my opinion, and not a verifiable fact. I bases the opinion on the things I have heard and read about CCH op(again, from people in a position to know) and things that have come out in this thread. I'm just guessing , for instance, that a company that doesn't have the facility(meaning wherewithal) to update their email addy on the website.....isn't going to be intrigued with the idea of managing a direct to consumer business.

What other gear manufacturer do we know of that does do a direct-to-consumer, and not to retailers, do we know of? Of course, maybe someone will break the mold, go for the gold, and find it is the way to go. I just don't see that it is the case, but I am not the end-all, be-all of knowledge, despite the several insinuations that I see myself as such.

tgreene:
In reply to:
...lots of stuff he said, not needed to requote...
Greenie - my current biz is animal care. I have had other businesses too. A stained glass studio, where the materials, industry wholesale show dates, sales projections and all that need to be part of the equation. A hair accessories situation, very niche market. I also worked with a handbag company as a design/merchandiser/sales representative with an office in NY, but the factory was in China. It was a factory direct to retail sales operation, and not a middleman situation, as most showrooms are. I've analyzed cost sheets that include data down to the three cents for thread used to stitch together a handbag. I also worked in a capacity to have some insights into daily operations at other companies. And I grew up seeing the daily operations, and helping out with the company, in my father's business. And, I spent a few years volunteering for a group called WIBO (Workshops In Business Opportunity), which is a pretty cool nonprofit dedicated to helping people learn the things they need to know about starting and operating a small business.

So.....I'm not talking completely out of my butt. Now I admit - I am not a business school-educated person; what I know, I learned from experience and interaction with others. And I know I tend to stat things very....adamantly... and this irritates people sometimes. Humility is a concept sometimes lost on me, I guess, and it comes out in posts, in spades, doesn't it!? But, I am okay with the occasional repartee. I'm not stating any of the things I say as an absolute, with regards to this thread. I just am putting out my opinion. Others have made cases for the opinions of QC, PR and...umm..I am lost for the word - when you retain the idea but someone else makes it - God, I hate getting old! And they have done so quite well, so I feel no compulsion to post about those topics. It doesn't mean I don't have an opinion....but, if I DID post on them, it would still boil down, for me, to "it's not OUR business(meaning the actual company) to be deciding these things!" That seems to be the issue that is speaking 'to me' about this whole fiasco.

Anyway - I should really step away from the keyboard now.....


nuts_r_us


Jan 9, 2006, 4:30 PM
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Anyway - I should really step away from the keyboard now.....

Yes please. :wink:


Partner tim


Jan 9, 2006, 4:47 PM
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In reply to:
If a company sells product both at wholesale and retail, they need to keep the "suggested retail price" the same so they don't injure the business of their wholesale accounts.

Aside from REI, whose margins are unlikely to be eroded by this sort of thing (they still carried Boreal until very, very recently; Boreal is now legendary for their mistreatment of mom & pop shops), who would be hurt?

Nomad will stay in business till the bitter end. So will Rock & Snow, the Yosemite Mountain Shop, and Neptune's. But I'm afraid that the mom & pop shop is mostly doomed if they fail to adapt (case in point: Gear Express/Starved Rock, GearX/Burlington Gear Exchange, etc... all adapting).

CCH won't change that. It's not their responsibility to change it. Their only responsibility is to make money -- although it would be nice if the cams that they made bore some resemblance to the specifications ;-)

In reply to:
I'm just guessing , for instance, that a company that doesn't have the facility(meaning wherewithal) to update their email addy on the website.....isn't going to be intrigued with the idea of managing a direct to consumer business.

Maybe they ought to license the brand if they don't want to do the whole "company filling orders" thing. Their patent and name is the real value of the company, and we all know it.


In reply to:
What other gear manufacturer do we know of that does do a direct-to-consumer, and not to retailers, do we know of?

Black Diamond, for starters, does a direct-to-consumer model in addition to their usual distribution chain. Wild Things does it. So does Pika (bad example) and Vermin, with even smaller markets. I'm not saying it's the ''right'' model, but it does exist.

In reply to:
...if I DID post on them, it would still boil down, for me, to "it's not OUR business(meaning the actual company) to be deciding these things!" That seems to be the issue that is speaking 'to me' about this whole fiasco.

Amen. We're all just speculating; most of us out of genuine concern for a company whose products we believe in. It would suck for Aliens to go away.


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Jan 9, 2006, 5:47 PM
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In reply to:
...lots of pertinent small biz info...
Please accept my apology. :oops:


Partner happiegrrrl


Jan 9, 2006, 5:56 PM
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No apology needed!

And for what it's worth....I really need to not to write any more posts in this thread......


goob3r


Jan 10, 2006, 8:55 PM
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He was rather defensive in response... you'd think, knowing full well that people bought Alien products because they TRUST and KNOW them, that no one would be out to just ruin their rep.. unless of course we're talkin commercial competition here or something, in which case i'm in way over my head.. but.. for any other situation.. my god, dude from CCH needs to chill out and see that no one's attacking his company.. just giving rc.com a heads up on a possible product defect.


pico23


Jan 11, 2006, 7:20 AM
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My how things would be different if he said,

'never happened before. Please send us the cam ASAP, we'll investigate and report our findings.'

If it was a hoax, cam never shows up.

If its for real, CCH gets a chance to deal with it.

When I seel guys like Malcom engage, share info, and by gawd stick up for CCH too while he's at it, and used to see Chris Harmston do the same for BD, I realize how much opportunity other manufacturers are missing out on; community service, customer support, fostering good will.

I don't think it is wise at all for a vendor to be taking the 'dismissive' approach.

DMT

Chris Harmstom was an amazing source of info, especially on Usenet.

I learned a lot from his post. One thing I learned most of all is all this SHITOLA about climbing gear is meant to never fail because someones life is on the line is BULLSHITOLA. He always was clear to state that climbing gear can and will fail and that it is just a tool to be used properly and aid in climbing safety. Furthermore, he added that no piece in the system should be relied upon solely.

I always laugh when people go "whats the point of having a rack of 16Kn cams if you don't fall on them" that 16Kn cam is my last resort to be used as rarely as possible. Staying on the rock or ice is your first margin of safety in the system, the gear is a last resort before hitting the ground.

But Dingus hit the nail on the head. Chris, Malcom and other gear designers, engineers, and even local retailers taking a proactive approach in this modern world is a good thing. These boards might be lame but they do offer an instaneous outlet for real advice and sometimes make you think about things beyond what you might have otherwise. I've learned a lot on these boards but never felt they were the word of god and don't blindly believe anything, but CCH's approach seems awful. Sadly I like CCH cams and own a few. I've never felt BD gear was the greatest but I was more apt to gravitate towards it when in doubt because of the great informative, no nonsense post by Chris Harmstom. Same thing with Rock and Snow in New Paltz because of Rich Gottliebs involvment on Gunks.com (and the fact that I find the shop to be amazingly honest when it comes to advice). CCH needs to either ignore these boards or do a better job with reacting to them. They also need to do a better job addressing if there is a hoax or a problem with the cam.

With that said I don't feel bad for the bashing CCH has gotten. On the flip side I feel like they've taken some abuse and possibly some hoaxes because they are a small but well admired company with a cultish following.


porcelainsunset


Jan 12, 2006, 1:38 AM
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So I just emailed REI today to try and get ahold of their buyer. I did this after I called and talked to the manager of my local store who knew nothing of the events. I wanted to post this so that you all can see what REI is doing about this, it is on all three forums relating to the issue. I was also wondering what any of you thought about what I am asking of REI. I typically am not their greatest fan, but figured that they would have the best bet of whipping CCH into shape. I hate to see their product go downhill. Anyway, this is what the email said.

Hello,

I am trying to get a hold of the buyer in charge of dealing with CCH and their product Aliens. They make a rock climbing cam that you sell.

Recently on Rockclimbing.com there has been an issue of strong concern regarding aliens. A person posted that he had one of his Aliens (Orange) fail on him at a very low impact. The cam cables separated at the point of the braze. This caused the cam to pretty much break. The customer posted this alarming incident online at the following thread.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=104150&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=0

This is how CCH responded to the claim.

The Silver brazed connections on Aliens are made by experienced ,skilled people who take great care in the quality of the braze. The accusations being made on this site are quite serious .
An examination by a certified metallurgical lab on the device in question is necessary in order to prove or disprove the claims made regarding alleged failure of the brazed connection. Without an actual report by a lab we will assume this is a staged hoax.
The cable on a 1.5 orange alien will hold over 3500 pounds, far more force than a falling climber could ever generate. When tested on a machine the cable will break ,not pull out of the cable eye.
David Waggoner at CCH

The thread where that post is made is http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=104279&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=0

Following the post made by Dave, there is 16 pages of outrage and concern made largely by CCH supporters who where offended at the response to the troubling situation.

In response to the post, Mountain Gear, who was following the thread, said that they decided to do a test of their own. After their test they found that 33% of the cams from random batches and sizes failed at a rate below the standard given to them by CCH.

The link to that thread is below
http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/104768

The reason why I am writing is to try and get a hold of the buyer from REI to see if these issues have been brought to your attention.

I recently bought over $300 worth of CCH Aliens from your Portland Oregon, and Tualatin Oregon stores. I was wondering if you had the batch numbers that both of these stores have received so I could figure out what batch number my cams belonged to. Please check my account to see when I bought them if you need to, I don’t have the receipts, but it was about a week ago. I bought all of them except the blue and the yellow at Portland, and the blue and yellow I bought at Tualatin because Portland was out.

I was also wondering about your return policy on these items. REI dose have a 100% guarantee, but I am not positive that the guarantee applies to rock Protection, or climbing ropes and harnesses. This would be good to know.

I was wondering if you could look into the fiasco and see if a re-call is needed. Although I am a loyal member of the CCH cult (I love their cams) I do not feel safe with my purchase because of the recent failures. CCH has a history of not issuing recalls of defective gear even when the problems where brought to their attention. For an example, a few months ago there was an issue with the drilling of the Orange cam lobes. This resulted in the cams strength being compromised at best, and rendered useless at worse. There still has been no recall of these cams.

CCH currently dose not individually test their cams, and I hold the burden to pressure CCH into a policy of doing so in the hands of REI. It is not your responsibility to test their product, nor is it mine. (I do understand that my life is in my own hands while climbing and I will test my own gear before I use it, however, one should feel safe and assured that they are being sold quality product from a store as professional as yours. Asking CCH to test their product through the use of NDT (Non Destructive Testing) to make sure that it holds under reasonable situations would fulfill this requirement.)

I ask that the situation be looked into fully, and that REI plays a part in assuring its customers that the cams purchased from their stores are safe to climb with. If there is any compromise to safety through cam strength I ask that a recall be put into action.

I would also recommend that REI monitor the threads that I listed above. I would find it wise of you to make a post on each of these forms letting your customers know that you are doing everything in your power to assure your customers of their safety and the quality of the products that you are selling. Much like Mountain Gear has, and unlike CCH. I understand that these forms are not the arena for these proceeding to take place, however they are a great resource for communicating to the climbing community. Many are concerned, and there is talk of a massive boycott of CCH, possibly resulting in its termination.

I urge you to play a part in the forthcomings of these events, for the interest of yourself, climbers, and the community as a whole.

Sincerely,

Taylor Anderson


REI should respond by the end of tomorrow, and I will let you know what they have to say about it. They are still selling possibly defective cams, and their store managers are not aware of these issues.


subtle


Jan 12, 2006, 4:20 AM
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I just sent an e-mail to REI's generic gear question address via their website. I got the following response within 1/2 hour. I'll just re-post the meat of the thing, in the interests of brevity:

"Thanks for contacting REI about your cams.

REI is currently investigating these cams but we do not have any specific details at this time. Please contact us in a couple of days, we should have an update from CCH at that time."

So, they seem to be aware and working on it, which is positive.

Allez. Homard.


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Jan 13, 2006, 1:44 AM
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CCH Alien recall notice [In reply to]
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/104853

Please refer to this thread for the official recall notice.


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