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domu888


Aug 3, 2007, 6:25 AM
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Aliens: Current Situation?
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Just wondered what the latest info was on Aliens, since most of the posts specifically on the subject are a bit dated. CCH seem to have started doing more quality control according to their website (http://www.aliencamsbycch.com/testing.html) and I wondered what people have to say on the specific subject.


crackers


Aug 3, 2007, 1:16 PM
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My distributor in the UK, http://www.apexdistribution.co.uk says that he sent a bunch of them to the TUV labs and had them pull tested. He told me that they all tested fine, and that CCH has radically changed their QA/QC procedures...


shockabuku


Aug 3, 2007, 1:37 PM
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Anyone know if CCH is still in business? I hadn't seen an Alien in stock anywhere until I was up in Estes Park over the weekend and saw they had a pretty sizable stash of new ones behind the counter.


Partner hosh


Aug 3, 2007, 4:16 PM
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you can still find them online. Try

www.tradrack.com

They usually have lots.

hosh.


healyje


Aug 3, 2007, 4:58 PM
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Re: [crackers] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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crackers wrote:
My distributor in the UK, http://www.apexdistribution.co.uk says that he sent a bunch of them to the TUV labs and had them pull tested. He told me that they all tested fine, and that CCH has radically changed their QA/QC procedures...

Well, at this point we're back to whether pull testing 10, 1000, or 10000 makes any difference at all if the next one is bad and doesn't get pull tested.

At the heart of the matter is consistency and the fact that there have been a number of well-documented post-recall, post-new-QA/QC failures is simply a staggering indictment of CCH's inability to execute any QA/QC protocol faithfully.

At this point I suspect climbers in the EU are woefully unaware of this entire fiasco so while some EU distributor might pull test a few that fact should bring no comfort to anyone. The facts in this matter are unchanged and on a statistical basis alone it's my opinion they should simply retire from making cams.

As far as I'm concerned, anyone still purchasing these cams is either uninformed, ill-informed, or an idiot.


shimanilami


Aug 3, 2007, 5:40 PM
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healyje wrote:
As far as I'm concerned, anyone still purchasing these cams is either uninformed, ill-informed, or an idiot.

Hysterical, a little? If you don't trust them, don't buy them. But don't call me and everyone else who swears by Alien cams "uninformed, ill-informed, or an idiot". They are, hands down, the best designed cams in the world.

The source of CCH's problems is not their QA/QC process (or in their design). It is the fact that they make their cams by hand, and that they clearly had an incompetent operator at some point. But if they corrected that situation, and then validated their process, then there is no need to pull test any of their products.

I work with medical products that will almost certain kill you if they are not manufactured correctly. Do we do 100% QC? Hell no. We focus on controlling the manufacturing process and especially those critical operations within it. Training, calibration, maintenance, etc. is the way to build quality into one's products, and that is what the CE-mark is all about. CCH is pursuing that CE-mark, and for anyone who is well-informed, that is all they need to know in order to have confidence in their products.


healyje


Aug 3, 2007, 6:00 PM
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shimanilami wrote:
healyje wrote:
As far as I'm concerned, anyone still purchasing these cams is either uninformed, ill-informed, or an idiot.

Hysterical, a little? If you don't trust them, don't buy them. But don't call me and everyone else who swears by Alien cams "uninformed, ill-informed, or an idiot". They are, hands down, the best designed cams in the world.

No, not a shred of hysteria in what I said above - it is simply the current reality borne of standard manufacturing quality statistics. Not a single word of what I just said commented on the design of Aliens. That they may or may not be the "best designed cams in the world" (and who's hysterical?) is wholly irrelevant - it's manufacture of the design which is the problem.

In reply to:
The source of CCH's problems is not their QA/QC process (or in their design). It is the fact that they make their cams by hand, and that they clearly had an incompetent operator at some point. But if they corrected that situation, and then validated their process, then there is no need to pull test any of their products.

You clearly know little about manufacturing, CCH, and not closely followed this whole saga from the beginning - I have and early on also spent no small amount of time and effort attempting to help Dave and CCH get past these problems - all to no avail.

In reply to:
I work with medical products that will almost certain kill you if they are not manufactured correctly. Do we do 100% QC? Hell no. We focus on controlling the manufacturing process and especially those critical operations within it. Training, calibration, maintenance, etc. is the way to build quality into one's products, and that is what the CE-mark is all about. CCH is pursuing that CE-mark, and for anyone who is well-informed, that is all they need to know in order to have confidence in their products.

The CE-mark folks have been notified about the deficiencies in Aliens manufacture and QC execution. Again, you have some pretty strange notions of manufacturing and QC from your comments above. I fully stand by my statements above - the design is not in question, their ability to safely manufacture the design is. The statistics of failed cams - both pre and post recall - clearly dictate they should retire from the business as far as I'm concerned.

Also, note I said, "buy" versus "climb on" in my original statement. I have two sets of pre-recall hybrids I tested myself and still occasionally climb on. No one should buy these cams anymore, however, and anyone climbing on any of them - tensile test stamped or not - should personally test them before climbing on them.


tradklime


Aug 3, 2007, 6:09 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
The source of CCH's problems is not their QA/QC process (or in their design). It is the fact that they make their cams by hand, and that they clearly had an incompetent operator at some point. But if they corrected that situation, and then validated their process, then there is no need to pull test any of their products.

I'm as big a fan of aliens as anyone. No other cam ever made works as well as aliens. However, if you have post recall "tensile tested" cams failing, you have a problem. The recent failures prove that CCH's process has not been "validated".

In my arbitrary opinion, any alien made after '03 is suspect. Which is a complete shame. I have one that I don't climb with, and my girl friend has several. All of my older aliens, a couple over 10 years old, I still fully trust. I'm trying to work out a way to test the suspect ones myself, so that I can be confident in them. I just haven't yet fully figured out something I'm happy with, and I certainly won't trust any testing that CCH does. Again, a complete shame.


shimanilami


Aug 3, 2007, 6:40 PM
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Re: [healyje] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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I suspect that our views are actually more alike than our argument would suggest.

We agree that the problem is not in the design, but in CCH's ability to control their manufacturing process. Where we disagree is our confidence in CCH's ability to do just that.

In my view, these products are really simple, and it shouldn't be difficult to correct whatever deficiencies exist in production. From what I gather, however, you have direct experience with Dave and CCH and still have doubts. (I must admit, I have worked with people who also seem incapable of getting things right no matter how hard we try, and I generally fire those people.)

But this is why the CE-mark is so important. If CCH is able to achieve this 'certification' despite clear evidence that they were out of control in the past, then they are good by me. If they can't ... well, then they deserve to go out of business.

In the meanwhile, I continue to climb on my 2001 Aliens. I've already done enough informal QC (i.e. whippers) to know that they are good.


bandycoot


Aug 3, 2007, 7:22 PM
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shimanilami wrote:
The source of CCH's problems is not their QA/QC process (or in their design). It is the fact that they make their cams by hand, and that they clearly had an incompetent operator at some point. But if they corrected that situation, and then validated their process, then there is no need to pull test any of their products.

I work with medical products that will almost certain kill you if they are not manufactured correctly. Do we do 100% QC? Hell no. We focus on controlling the manufacturing process and especially those critical operations within it. Training, calibration, maintenance, etc. is the way to build quality into one's products, and that is what the CE-mark is all about. CCH is pursuing that CE-mark, and for anyone who is well-informed, that is all they need to know in order to have confidence in their products.

Well, you are obviously not well informed. I work in QC for a company that has CE approval. We test a very significant percentage of our product for each lot produced. When there is a problem with the process (some steps are manually performed) then we catch it. "There is no need to pull test any of their products." Wow are you ignorant to be speaking like an expert on the subject. Any manufacturing process can have something go wrong, be it malfunction or an operator error. Thus QC testing.


pug


Aug 3, 2007, 7:48 PM
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healyje wrote:
At the heart of the matter is consistency and the fact that there have been a number of well-documented post-recall, post-new-QA/QC failures is simply a staggering indictment of CCH's inability to execute any QA/QC protocol faithfully.

Have there actually been "a number of well-documented post-recall...failures?" I saw an rc.com post some time ago claiming that a non-dimpled alien had failed. I looked for that post recently to see if there was ever any follow-up on it, and could not find it. CCH's site seems to claim that the only cams with documented failures are the dimpled cams as originally asserted. I would think that, if there were further confirmed failures, there would have had to be further recalls. Perhaps, that is ignorant, but it seems like to do otherwise would be negligent, on CCH's part.

That said, as an owner of a set of mostly 2004-2005 aliens, I just picked up some C3's. The amount of uncertainty surrounding aliens right now is enough to make me uneasy.

So, if anyone can point to reliable sources documenting these alleged post-recall failures, I would be very interested to see it. I'd like to know if there are facts behind the FUD.


shimanilami


Aug 3, 2007, 7:50 PM
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bandycoot wrote:
Well, you are obviously not well informed. I work in QC for a company that has CE approval. We test a very significant percentage of our product for each lot produced. When there is a problem with the process (some steps are manually performed) then we catch it. "There is no need to pull test any of their products." Wow are you ignorant to be speaking like an expert on the subject. Any manufacturing process can have something go wrong, be it malfunction or an operator error. Thus QC testing.

I didn't say they shouldn't do any QC. I said that if their manufacturing process is validated, then they don't need to do pull tests on their products. And that is an accurate statement.

I am a big proponent of LEAN and Six Sigma practices. No offense to QC, but it is my goal to eliminate the need for having you guys around. (You're overhead, frankly.) And with a manufacturing process as simple as the one at CCH, it shouldn't be too hard to do.

Now, Marketing may want to state, "100% QC inspected", but that is more a matter of perceived value than real value. And if that increases sales, then I'm all for it.


jakedatc


Aug 3, 2007, 9:56 PM
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BD is 3 sigma and still pull tests batches (at least they describe with biners) every biner to 1/2 rated strength.. and a few per batch to failure.

you are putting a lot of faith on the IF CCH can pull this shit off.. They have not done a very good job lately of inspiring that much confidence. He claimed they had the issue fixed.. then multiple non dimpled cams have had the heads pop off. They haven't put stuff up on their website admitting to many of them.

It still cracks me up that their official Email addy is at AOL haha

i have 2 post recall pre TT that i need to bounce or pull test


shimanilami


Aug 3, 2007, 10:16 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
BD is 3 sigma and still pull tests batches (at least they describe with biners) every biner to 1/2 rated strength.. and a few per batch to failure.

I'd be willing to bet that they never find faulty 'biners. Pull testing every 'biner is a marketing ploy that works really well ... worth their investment, I'd say.

jakedatc wrote:
You are putting a lot of faith on the IF CCH can pull this shit off. They have not done a very good job lately of inspiring that much confidence.

I don't disagree. But as far as I can see, the root cause of each of the failures is a bad braze. Fixing that process (i.e. "pulling this shit off") shouldn't be difficult (as long as their not stoned while they're doing it.) That is the my biggest gripe with CCH. This isn't rocket science. They just need to focus on the issue at hand.

In the meanwhile, they're losing market share, which is sad. CCH could dominate the micro-cam market, but they're just letting it slip away.


sspssp


Aug 3, 2007, 10:27 PM
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tradklime wrote:

I'm as big a fan of aliens as anyone. No other cam ever made works as well as aliens. However, if you have post recall "tensile tested" cams failing, you have a problem. The recent failures prove that CCH's process has not been "validated".

I have heard talk of non-dimpled failures. Has there been reports of "tensile tested" cams failing?

I was not aware of any. If so, that would certainly raise the red flag even higher.


sspssp


Aug 3, 2007, 10:33 PM
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Re: [healyje] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
As far as I'm concerned, anyone still purchasing these cams is either uninformed, ill-informed, or an idiot.

Because there might still be some added danger even if buying aliens that are marked "tensile tested"?

I can't image that the risk is any greater than the other risks associated with gear climbing (lead falls, rock falls, mistakes in the belay chain...).

Or is taking any risk in climbing either uninformed, ill-informed, or idiotic?


musicman1586


Aug 3, 2007, 10:42 PM
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sspssp wrote:
tradklime wrote:

I'm as big a fan of aliens as anyone. No other cam ever made works as well as aliens. However, if you have post recall "tensile tested" cams failing, you have a problem. The recent failures prove that CCH's process has not been "validated".

I have heard talk of non-dimpled failures. Has there been reports of "tensile tested" cams failing?

I was not aware of any. If so, that would certainly raise the red flag even higher.

I second wanting proof of post-recall and TT cams failing, everyone keeps saying its happened, but I havne't "seen" it, read that one thread which was never cleared up to my knowledge, so please someone show me where is the proof that non-recall cams have failed (I'll admit my ignorance here, I don't get on much anymore, too busy with work, school, and climbing)


bobruef


Aug 3, 2007, 10:43 PM
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Re: [sspssp] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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sspssp wrote:
tradklime wrote:

I'm as big a fan of aliens as anyone. No other cam ever made works as well as aliens. However, if you have post recall "tensile tested" cams failing, you have a problem. The recent failures prove that CCH's process has not been "validated".

I have heard talk of non-dimpled failures. Has there been reports of "tensile tested" cams failing?

I was not aware of any. If so, that would certainly raise the red flag even higher.

Yes. Here's the list I was keeping, but I don't think it's complete:


In another thread, I compiled a list of Alien failures documented here and on supertopo (from a quick search and memory). I'm reposting it here for those who've not been following the whole messy saga from the begining. For those of you counting, that brings the number of documented failures/faulty cams to 11 (by my count... please someone correct me if my info is wrong or incomplete). I don't want to be alarmist, but I believe this is important information for those who are not aware of the previous failures/production mistakes.

The list:

Again, If the threads I linked here aren't the best sources, or my descriptions are innacurate, somebody please post up a correction.

Two Tensile tested Aliens fail 1100 and 1200 lbs (at the braze)
http://www.supertopo.com/...id=379659&tn=220

Resivoir Wall non-dimpled post recall Purple Alien Failure
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=1593796;#1593796

5/15/7 Non-dimpled Blue Alien fails at 900lbs when tested by Russ Walling http://www.rockclimbing.com/...2;page=unread#unread

Souders Crack 11d groundfall (broken cable, non dimpled, post recall)http://www.rockclimbing.com/...=groundfall;#1585733

Faulty Swage (post recall)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n%20failure;#1316820

Dimpled Orange Alien Braze Failure at Indian Creek (the cam that started the recall)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n%20failure;#1277756

Gray Alien braze failure (2005, pre-recall)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Non dimpled Paradise Forks Orange Alien bodyweight braze failure (post-recall)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Misdrilled Axle Holes (rei recall thread)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Tradrenn's oddly sized alien (deleted post)
tradrenn wrote:
Just the other day I was inspecting my gear ( OK I was bored and had nothing better to do with my time ) and after looking at my Aliens I have discover a little problem with my Yellow ones ( I have to of them ) The problem is that one Yellow Alien has a proper range of Yellow Alien, like it should. Second Yellow Alien has a range of Grey Alien.
Difference between Yellow and Grey size range is not that much so it is just a minor inconvenience ( got to get some grey electrical tape )

Here are some picks for you people.

The height of good lobe on yellow alien ( 0.508" )

The length of good lobe on yellow alien ( 0.709" )

The height of lobe on grey alien ( 0.553" )

The length of lobe on grey alien ( 0.774" )

The height of lobe on "bad" yellow alien ( 0.553 )

The length of lobe on "bad yellow alien ( 0.773" )

Range of yellow alien ( 0.698" ) (notice the yellow sling )

Range of grey alien ( 0.760" ) (notice the grey sling )

Range of "bad" yellow alien ( 0.761" ) (notice the yellow sling )


So, here is a little heads up for some of you that are getting into Aliens or buying more Aliens.

And in case the above didn't convince you, maybe this will

Well that about sums it up doesn't it? This cam survived a 1750lb pull test, and broke at 1200?... Right.


(This post was edited by bobruef on Aug 3, 2007, 10:53 PM)


jakedatc


Aug 3, 2007, 10:46 PM
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That i agree with.. it shouldn't be that hard.. but they seem to be stubborn and making it that way.

i like their new Drop tower videos are pretty funny.. who cares if one cable set up doesn't break.. actually show the numbers.. show a consistency of quality.. then maybe people will come back. but "yuk that there's the 3rd drop on that there cable there and it ain't broke yet" such inspiring words from a guy who builds devices that are supposed to keep people safe Crazy


stymingersfink


Aug 3, 2007, 11:56 PM
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shimanilami wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
BD is 3 sigma and still pull tests batches (at least they describe with biners) every biner to 1/2 rated strength.. and a few per batch to failure.

I'd be willing to bet that they never find faulty 'biners. Pull testing every 'biner is a marketing ploy that works really well ... worth their investment, I'd say.

IF they (BD) were to find dangerously faulty 'biners at the QC point, the assembly line would immediately get shut down (and stay that way), until they got to the root cause of the problem. I would guess that if a biner in destructive testing (QA) failed in a unique manner the same thing would occur.

My statement is based only upon having been somewhat familiar in the past several of the people doing the QA testing, the protocols in place within the organization, and how seriously KP takes his job and your climbing.


That said, the only somewhat-serious failure I've seen in their manufacture protocols of 'biners was an incident in which one side of the hinge rivit was not properly finished, such that the hinge pin could work its way free and cause the gate to disassemble itself (no reports of such happening in the field, IIRC).

In the case just mentioned above, biner shipment was shut down, while EVERY biner in the warehouse was visually inspected to ensure every biner which could be caught before sale, was. I'm talking on the order of 40,000+ biners in the warehouse, IIRC.

Also, notices were made to the retailers who had purchased biners from the date ranges which were in question, asking them to inspect their stock. People on the assembly line were re-trained and protocols were adjusted to ensure such a thing could be prevented in the future. There was also a voluntary recall notice issued through the CPSC. (Metolius had a similar incident a couple years ago too. They probably responded in a similar manner, but IDK. I would expect them to, however, because I perceive that they take their business seriously.)

In other words, some companies take their reputation for safety seriously. Others don't. BD+Metolius would be good examples of the former, CCH might be a prime example of the latter.

When you've got to twist the arms of a company producing potentially faulty product to get them to act in a responsible manner, that's not a good indicator for the long term viability of the company in question... Especially when the company manufactures trinkets which are designed to protect your life.


That said...

CCH has gotten exactly what they've asked for IMO. The links posted above are simply validation of not only my opinion, but sadly enough, many climbers opinions from around the world.Frown


shimanilami


Aug 4, 2007, 12:08 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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It seems we all basically agree that the design of CCH Aliens is sound. I am wondering how people feel about the following possibilities:

If CCH farmed out production to an outside party - BD or Metolius, for example - would this eliminate your quality concerns? Would you buy "made by BD/Metolius" Aliens?

If there was a third party who could perform QC (e.g. pull testing), would you take advantage of this service, even if it cost you a few bucks? And would you then buy Aliens again?


jakedatc


Aug 4, 2007, 12:18 AM
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They don't need to be associated with Alien.. BD made C3's, WC has Zero's metolius seems to have made something new that we might know about next week from the OR show. If they are reasonably priced then CCH is doomed. people are just waiting for alternatives.


stymingersfink


Aug 4, 2007, 12:37 AM
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jakedatc wrote:
If they are reasonably priced then CCH is doomed. people are just waiting for alternatives.
PRECISELY!


rocknice2


Aug 4, 2007, 1:30 AM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
If there was a third party who could perform QC (e.g. pull testing), would you take advantage of this service, even if it cost you a few bucks? And would you then buy Aliens again?

No!!!
CCH has proven it's inabilaty to produce consistant quality. I don't care if they or anyone else test every cam I still wouldn't buy them.
QC is used as a tool to insure that everything is running without problems not as a de-weeder to filter out bad parts.
Do you actually believe that when a QC department [of a small company] finds some bad parts that the head dirtbag can't override his emplyees. What's to stop him/her from plucking the bad part out of a control batch and them saying "Their OK just ship them".
There's no Q-SWAT team busting down the doors to a company.
What you do get is a bad reputation with your customer as not being able to manufacture a product to their specifications.
Bottom line CCH may have been a quality manufacturer but now it's a TURD.
You can't polish a turd You just gotta flush.


Why are you so hell bent on Aliens? Seems that you need justification from the climbing community to continue to climb on and/or purchase new Alien cams.


shimanilami


Aug 4, 2007, 6:55 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
Why are you so hell bent on Aliens? Seems that you need justification from the climbing community to continue to climb on and/or purchase new Alien cams.

Quite simple - they work better than everything else. And they have saved my ass more times than I can count.

I'm not looking for any sort of "justification" to keep using them. I've got 3 sets and I know every single one of them is solid. C3's? Tried 'em and they're just OK. Ultralights? Too small for my fingers. Zeros? They're the closest to the Aliens, but they still don't place as well.

I just don't want to see the backlash against CCH put them out of business, especially if they are able to get their act together. (That is why I asked whether people would buy "made by BD/Metolius" Aliens.)


healyje


Aug 4, 2007, 7:21 AM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
I just don't want to see the backlash against CCH put them out of business, especially if they are able to get their act together...

I had the same sentiment and as an ex-ISO Auditor I tried to do what I could - but - after my experience and if you followed all the threads for that past several years examining the range and time span of failures you'd realize we are well past that point. They are not going to get their act together and it is simply time they were shut down in my opinion. And as far as I'm concerned, any retailer still carrying them should be stoned - and not the good kind. No one in the business can afford to have these guys still in operation - it will cause problems for them all sooner or later - problems none of us need.


billcoe_


Aug 5, 2007, 3:17 AM
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Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
....the root cause of each of the failures is a bad braze. Fixing that process (i.e. "pulling this shit off") shouldn't be difficult

You said that 3 times dude, in 3 separate posts. Duhhh, we all get that. Duhhh. Duhhh. Duhhh. SHOULD be easy to fix it. Duhh. We all agree with you.

What we don't get is AFTER all the faulty crap they cranked out, CCH moves to a "better system" with QC checks and ACTUAL (alleged) TESTING EACH and EVERY CAM before it goes out the door in an attempt to fix this issue and then we get 2 actual failures on new cams, and 2 more failures of 10 new cams tested on a machine.

Go read that Soulders crack fall where dude eats dirt, breaks more bones than a person has a right to break: because of a new, "TESTED BEFORE IT WENT OUT THE CCH DOOR" yellow Alien failure.

Maybe you think it "should" be easy to fix this issue, but you are not making this gear shimanilami and for them it isn't.

So what I got to say is that they can and I hope they do: FUCK OFF AND DIE as a company before some poor innocent actually dies and has to be scraped off the dirt with a snowshovel because although it SHOULD have been easy to fix this issue, CCH DID NOT do it.

Oh, I have a lot of Aliens. I got in 7 pitches today and used them on most of them. I'll still use them. But I'm praying they go out of business before somebody dies and then the survivors sues them out of business.

Cause then EVERYBODY looses.


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...;;page=unread#unread


stymingersfink


Aug 5, 2007, 4:35 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
.

Maybe you think it "should" be easy to fix this issue, but you are not making this gear shimanilami...

Hmm. perhaps we are basing our responses on a false assumption.

Maybe?


Banks


Aug 5, 2007, 5:08 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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stymingersfink wrote:
billcoe_ wrote:
.

Maybe you think it "should" be easy to fix this issue, but you are not making this gear shimanilami...

Hmm. perhaps we are basing our responses on a false assumption.

Maybe?
I've felt this way all along. It seems shimanilami is trying a little too hard to forget all of CCH's problems and pretend everything is fine.

All is not forgoten and all is not fine.


stymingersfink


Aug 5, 2007, 9:31 AM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
It seems we all basically agree that the design of CCH Aliens is sound.

no, not really. there is obviously an issue with the brazing process such that it cannot be performed by a trained monkey, therefore should not be attempted by an assembler in Chighna. Or Wyoming.

find another way to attach the cable to the head which CAN be performed by a trained monkey and you might have a new patent, but I doubt THAT's gonna happen.


sspssp


Aug 5, 2007, 10:26 PM
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Re: [bobruef] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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bobruef wrote:
sspssp wrote:
tradklime wrote:

I'm as big a fan of aliens as anyone. No other cam ever made works as well as aliens. However, if you have post recall "tensile tested" cams failing, you have a problem. The recent failures prove that CCH's process has not been "validated".

I have heard talk of non-dimpled failures. Has there been reports of "tensile tested" cams failing?

I was not aware of any. If so, that would certainly raise the red flag even higher.

Yes. Here's the list I was keeping, but I don't think it's complete:


In another thread, I compiled a list of Alien failures documented here and on supertopo (from a quick search and memory). I'm reposting it here for those who've not been following the whole messy saga from the begining. For those of you counting, that brings the number of documented failures/faulty cams to 11 (by my count... please someone correct me if my info is wrong or incomplete). I don't want to be alarmist, but I believe this is important information for those who are not aware of the previous failures/production mistakes.

The list:

Again, If the threads I linked here aren't the best sources, or my descriptions are innacurate, somebody please post up a correction.

Two Tensile tested Aliens fail 1100 and 1200 lbs (at the braze)
http://www.supertopo.com/...id=379659&tn=220

Yes, I would say that is another red flag.

However, the cams that failed in lead falls concern me much more. In those cases, whatever sort of forces are actually generated by lead falls was enough to cause the cam to pull apart.

The "tensile tested" failure is one guy (who sounds like he has his own ax to grind with CCH), was able to pull a cam apart at what he claims was 1100 lbs. Which, without cofirmation/replication by some other independent testers, it is hard to have too much faith in the accuracy of this report and whether or not this cam really would have failed under the loads that actual falls generate.

I would certainly by happy, though, to see CCH sell out to a large, mainstream company. For Yosemite granite, I sure prefer them to any other small cam I have tried.


healyje


Aug 5, 2007, 10:37 PM
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Re: [sspssp] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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sspssp wrote:
The "tensile tested" failure is one guy (who sounds like he has his own ax to grind with CCH), was able to pull a cam apart at what he claims was 1100 lbs. Which, without cofirmation/replication by some other independent testers, it is hard to have too much faith in the accuracy of this report and whether or not this cam really would have failed under the loads that actual falls generate.

If you mean Russ from Fish Products then, as far as I'm concerned, nothing more need be known about it other than as an independent tester he said they failed and failed miserably. And if he has an axe to grind it's probably that someone this out of control is still in the climbing gear business tainting everyone en masse.


medicus


Aug 5, 2007, 10:46 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
They are, hands down, the best designed cams in the world.
IYHO?


bobruef


Aug 5, 2007, 10:51 PM
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Re: [sspssp] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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sspssp wrote:
Yes, I would say that is another red flag.

However, the cams that failed in lead falls concern me much more. In those cases, whatever sort of forces are actually generated by lead falls was enough to cause the cam to pull apart.

The lead fall scenarios above were all very short falls which would not have generated even close to what should be required to dismantle one of those cams. What would be more accurate to point to as concerning would be the fact that if those cams were breaking because of very high forces, the failure mode would be completely different.


sspssp wrote:
The "tensile tested" failure is one guy (who sounds like he has his own ax to grind with CCH), was able to pull a cam apart at what he claims was 1100 lbs. Which, without cofirmation/replication by some other independent testers, it is hard to have too much faith in the accuracy of this report and whether or not this cam really would have failed under the loads that actual falls generate...

Why oh why oh why anyone would continue to give CCH the bennefit of the doubt after so many well documented cases is beyond me. After all, those who've taken it upon themselves to preform services for the climbing community (like Russ Walling has) would be much more deserving of skeptecism.

C'mon now.


dynosore


Aug 6, 2007, 12:37 AM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I am a big proponent of LEAN and Six Sigma practices. No offense to QC, but it is my goal to eliminate the need for having you guys around. (You're overhead, frankly.) And with a manufacturing process as simple as the one at CCH, it shouldn't be too hard to do.

Did you learn your QC methodology off the back of a cereal box!?! Gee, our process works today, and we're "certified" so lets not monitor it anymore since nothing unforseen could change and cause us to start making a defective product Crazy I've heard some stupid things out of the mouths of sick sigma devotees, but this takes the cake.

I pray I never need the medical device you produce Shocked


cfnubbler


Aug 6, 2007, 4:11 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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CCH knowingly and willfully violated the trust of the climbing community. If you're on this forum, that means your community. When we as a community are uneccesarily endangered, then lied too about it, it goes beyond business, and gets personal. I'm not a vindictive person by nature, but I hope they are put out of business fast. Karma, baby. It can be a real bitch.

And this from a formally ardent aliens fan...


shimanilami


Aug 6, 2007, 4:15 PM
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Re: [medicus] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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medicus wrote:
shimanilami wrote:
They are, hands down, the best designed cams in the world.
IYHO?

What's better?


shimanilami


Aug 6, 2007, 4:30 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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dynosore wrote:
In reply to:
I am a big proponent of LEAN and Six Sigma practices. No offense to QC, but it is my goal to eliminate the need for having you guys around. (You're overhead, frankly.) And with a manufacturing process as simple as the one at CCH, it shouldn't be too hard to do.

Did you learn your QC methodology off the back of a cereal box!?! Gee, our process works today, and we're "certified" so lets not monitor it anymore since nothing unforseen could change and cause us to start making a defective product Crazy I've heard some stupid things out of the mouths of sick sigma devotees, but this takes the cake.

I pray I never need the medical device you produce Shocked

I hope you never need any of my company's products, either. But the odds are such that you probably will. (In fact, the odds are such that someone you know already has.)

When I said it is my goal to eliminate the need for having QC around, I meant exactly what I said. From a business perspective, that money is much better spent on positions that grow the top line (e.g. R&D) or improve the bottom line (e.g. automation in manufacturing).

That said, it is virtually impossible to eliminate QC entirely, especially in an industry such as mine. But trust me, we're trying.


shimanilami


Aug 6, 2007, 4:32 PM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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stymingersfink wrote:
shimanilami wrote:
It seems we all basically agree that the design of CCH Aliens is sound.

no, not really. there is obviously an issue with the brazing process such that it cannot be performed by a trained monkey, therefore should not be attempted by an assembler in Chighna. Or Wyoming.

find another way to attach the cable to the head which CAN be performed by a trained monkey and you might have a new patent, but I doubt THAT's gonna happen.

I'll give you that. "Design for manufacturability" is a concept CCH clearly hasn't grasped yet.


(This post was edited by shimanilami on Aug 6, 2007, 4:34 PM)


jt512


Aug 6, 2007, 5:14 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
dynosore wrote:
In reply to:
I am a big proponent of LEAN and Six Sigma practices. No offense to QC, but it is my goal to eliminate the need for having you guys around. (You're overhead, frankly.) And with a manufacturing process as simple as the one at CCH, it shouldn't be too hard to do.

Did you learn your QC methodology off the back of a cereal box!?! Gee, our process works today, and we're "certified" so lets not monitor it anymore since nothing unforseen could change and cause us to start making a defective product Crazy I've heard some stupid things out of the mouths of sick sigma devotees, but this takes the cake.

I pray I never need the medical device you produce Shocked

I hope you never need any of my company's products, either. But the odds are such that you probably will. (In fact, the odds are such that someone you know already has.)

When I said it is my goal to eliminate the need for having QC around, I meant exactly what I said. From a business perspective, that money is much better spent on positions that grow the top line (e.g. R&D) or improve the bottom line (e.g. automation in manufacturing).

That said, it is virtually impossible to eliminate QC entirely, especially in an industry such as mine. But trust me, we're trying.

I seems to me that it is people with attitudes like yours that make the FDA necessary.

Jay


shimanilami


Aug 6, 2007, 5:27 PM
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Re: [jt512] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:

I seems to me that it is people with attitudes like yours that make the FDA necessary.

Jay

Touche!

But I will point out that there is no FDA in the European Community and they seem to get along just fine policing themselves.

I will submit that the FDA is the ultimate "QC Department", filled with people with little understanding of the basic technical, business, or manufacturing principles associated with the products they regulate. The 'clearances' they provide are often rubber stamps that shield the corporations just as much as they protect US consumers.

But, yeah, I hate the FDA. Give me ISO, instead.


shimanilami


Aug 6, 2007, 5:53 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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As much as I love playing devil's advocate (and in defending CCH, I get to do so in more ways than one!), this thread is giving me a headache. I'm trying to goof off at work, but instead I'm bringing my work to RC.com.

No fun. I'm out.


russwalling


Aug 6, 2007, 8:29 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
The "tensile tested" failure is one guy (who sounds like he has his own ax to grind with CCH), was able to pull a cam apart at what he claims was 1100 lbs. Which, without cofirmation/replication by some other independent testers, it is hard to have too much faith in the accuracy of this report and whether or not this cam really would have failed under the loads that actual falls generate.

The above is one of the dumbest things I've heard in a while.... even on the internet.

I have been in contact with the "tensile tested" failure guy. He has no axe to grind and has a background in materials testing. His testing set up is top notch and his results are verifiable and accurate.

As for the loads that climbing falls generate and whether the tested/failed cam would have held such falls..... use your bean man! The cam failed at 1100 lbs. I have had Alien failures from 150lbs to 900lbs. What sort of fall does it take to generate a 150lb load? 900lb? 1100lbs? It ain't much, and to suggest that a cam is good in the real world when these lab style failures are occurring is just idiotic. Look at the math a bit more and then wise up a bunch. CCH cams are a potential timebomb, and someone will die eventually if this failure rate continues.

(This post was edited by russwalling on Aug 6, 2007, 8:38 PM)


sspssp


Aug 6, 2007, 8:52 PM
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Re: [russwalling] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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russwalling wrote:
In reply to:
The "tensile tested" failure is one guy (who sounds like he has his own ax to grind with CCH), was able to pull a cam apart at what he claims was 1100 lbs. Which, without cofirmation/replication by some other independent testers, it is hard to have too much faith in the accuracy of this report and whether or not this cam really would have failed under the loads that actual falls generate.

The above is one of the dumbest things I've heard in a while.... even on the internet.

I have been in contact with the "tensile tested" failure guy. He has no axe to grind and has a background in materials testing. His testing set up is top notch and his results are verifiable and accurate.

As for the loads that climbing falls generate and whether the tested/failed cam would have held such falls..... use your bean man! The cam failed at 1100 lbs. I have had Alien failures from 150lbs to 900lbs. What sort of fall does it take to generate a 150lb load? 900lb? 1100lbs? It ain't much, and to suggest that a cam is good in the real world when these lab style failures are occurring is just idiotic. Look at the math a bit more and then wise up a bunch. CCH cams are a potential timebomb, and someone will die eventually if this failure rate continues.

Perhaps I should have said it differently than ax to grind. From the supertopo link the guy who did the testing said:

"I even tried to buy the company because the design concept is fantastic, but you cannot have cams failing"

So if he was spurned in his attempt I thought he might have a reason to be unhappy with CCH.

But regardless...

What is so dumb about my statement? If I said that I tested an Alien and it failed at 90lbs would you automatically believe me? Of course not. I'm just some dumb dude on the internet spouting off.

It is not that I think 1100 pounds is a safe level. It is that the cams that failed in the field obviously failed at an unsafe level. All the "failures" in the lab are based on "some guy on the internet" reporting something. Now if you personally know him, sure you attitude is going to be different (just like my test/report would be different for people that know me: either as honest guy or as a troll). Or if the report is on a reputable company page etc.

Why would I give CCH any benefit of the doubt? Well, I would think that CCH would have some desire to avoid bankruptcy. They obviously have had a lot of troubles that they didn't deal with in an appropriate manner. However, I didn't think it would be that hard for them to actually do a pull test on every new alien that left the shop. That is why I was so focused/concerned about the "tensile tested" failure versus any of the cams that failed before they [allegedly] started doing test. And obviously I like climbing on them. If so many climbers didn't really like them, CCH would have gone under a long time ago...


russwalling


Aug 6, 2007, 9:04 PM
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In reply to:
What is so dumb about my statement? If I said that I tested an Alien and it failed at 90lbs would you automatically believe me? Of course not. I'm just some dumb dude on the internet spouting off.

RE: the failed cam: If your 90lb cam was presented as his failed cam was, with a picture of a dynamometer, a picture of the failed cams, and other data from the testing, yes I would believe you. Sure, he could be trolling and there could be monsters under the bed and all that, but in this case, not believing him would seem to be more of a troll.

And that stuff about the failed during testing cam maybe holding actual falls in the field..... well, there is no way to make that part of the statement sound intelligent. (unless you really have no idea just how much force actual falls generate)


aerili


Aug 6, 2007, 10:03 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
If CCH farmed out production to an outside party - BD or Metolius, for example - would this eliminate your quality concerns? Would you buy "made by BD/Metolius" Aliens?

I was in a Laramie gear shop recently and the owner mentioned that CCH started having problems when they farmed out work to a third party(ies). I have no idea if this is true or not, or where the involved parties may have been located if this is actually the case.

I followed the Alien discussions for the most part, but it's been a while and I don't remember if anyone confirmed or disspelled this rumor...forgive me if I'm posting useless or already-discussed information.


jakedatc


Aug 6, 2007, 10:10 PM
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The Dimpled cams were brazed by a third party and they marked at least some of them with a dimple. I believe since the recall they are supposed to be doing it all in house again.. but who knows anymore


wb3


Aug 6, 2007, 10:17 PM
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OK, so many folks seem to feel that the old ones they have are OK, but don't buy new ones. I've got a rack full of Aiens in smaller sizes. All produced in '05. I've sent them back and had them pull tested. Now let's suppose CCH's testing procedure is not entirely trustworthy. What to do next? I too love the way they work but want to be confident they're OK. Are there any commercial services to which one can send cams and have them independently tested? And will that suffice, assuming there is not a design flaw at issue?


(This post was edited by wb3 on Aug 8, 2007, 11:59 PM)


billcoe_


Aug 6, 2007, 10:20 PM
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Re: [cfnubbler] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
CCH knowingly and willfully violated the trust of the climbing community. If you're on this forum, that means your community. When we as a community are uneccesarily endangered, then lied too about it, it goes beyond business, and gets personal. I'm not a vindictive person by nature, but I hope they are put out of business fast. Karma, baby. It can be a real bitch.

And this from a formally ardent aliens fan...

yup, what he said.


Shimichanga, BTW, its not about you, OR about QC, or about Lean, 3 Sigma or 6 Sigma, 110 or 220 volts.

At this point, I suspect that if CCH even put a scholastically struggling mentally challenged 4th grader in charge of quality it would be a big improvement over whatever the hell they are (NOT) currently doing.


shimanilami


Aug 6, 2007, 10:48 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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In a couple more days, we'll see what Metolius has up its sleeves, and maybe then all of this will be moot. Let's hope it's not another C3-like disappointment.

"Aliens by Metolius, but with machined cam stops" would be bad-ass.


billcoe_


Aug 6, 2007, 11:47 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
In a couple more days, we'll see what Metolius has up its sleeves, and maybe then all of this will be moot. Let's hope it's not another C3-like disappointment.

"Aliens by Metolius, but with machined cam stops" would be bad-ass.

Absolutley! I don't know why people don't see any Metolius failures as they've been out longer than CCH, including all the different styles including reg. cams must have a shitload more out in the field and I'll bet they get whipped on more.

I heard of the tiniest one, the one for bodyweight only aid placements failing on a whipper and that's been it. One instance, and it should have failed.

I'd just hate to see someone hurt bad, put in a wheelchair as a quad, for no reason. I worked at the VA hospital for 4 years, that shit sucks worse than most people might think.


stymingersfink


Aug 7, 2007, 1:49 AM
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Re: [wb3] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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wb3 wrote:
And will that suffice, assuming there is not a design flaw at issue?
I would have to doubt a design flaw to be the heart of this issue. Perhaps the design could and should be updated a tad, because as I understand it the patent is about to expire, which generally means the patent is almost 20 (or is that 25) years old. A significant upgrade to the patent could extend protection another 20 years perhaps, IDK, as I'm not a patent lawyer or even anything close.

Check here for another post I made in another thread which might be more relevant to this thread even (thought I was posting it here, it fact. oops).


domu888


Aug 7, 2007, 2:09 AM
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Re: [stymingersfink] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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stymingersfink wrote:
wb3 wrote:
And will that suffice, assuming there is not a design flaw at issue?
I would have to doubt a design flaw to be the heart of this issue. Perhaps the design could and should be updated a tad, because as I understand it the patent is about to expire, which generally means the patent is almost 20 (or is that 25) years old. A significant upgrade to the patent could extend protection another 20 years perhaps, IDK, as I'm not a patent lawyer or even anything close.

As I work in the patent field, I can tell you that a US patent lasts for a maximum of 20 years assuming that the holder pays all the appropriate renewal fees. After that anyone can use and manufacture a device using the information disclosed in the patent. Of course, other companies can't go around selling cams also called "aliens": that's a trademark, which is a different thing completely.

Having said that the patent expires soon doesn't mean of course that the design hasn't been upgraded recently, it just means that the underlying technology is protected from use by unlicensed rivals. Of course, the severe competition between companies and their respective patents means that cams cannot often be upgraded using a rival company's patented technology, except under license, which can be extremely expensive, but sometimes worth it: take Wild country for example, who have license agreements with DMM.Smile

I think the expiry of their patent would be a big problem though for CCH: CCH is a relatively small company in the climbing world and they would lose out to bigger competitors without the patent. However hard it might be, it might be time to consider license agreements with a rival and combine technologies. Think how sweet a cam that could be!Laugh All the good points of the best cams combined ... though maybe I'm dreaming.


jaybro


Aug 7, 2007, 5:52 AM
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Re: [wb3] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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wb3 wrote:
Now let's suppose CCH's testing procedure is not entirely trustworthy. What to do next?
-throw them all away before someone actually climbs on them


cellardoor


Aug 7, 2007, 4:02 PM
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Re: [jaybro] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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question,

so i looked at the pictures of the two tensile tested cams that failed at 1.1k and 1.2k. What kind of torque does that method or rigging the head with webbing produce? It seems abit sketch to me to weight it from one side of the head. In the picture of the cam being stressed you can see an uneven line of force as the cam head is bent at an angle.

Does this test seem like a valid one? I noticed on the pull testing picutres that cch posted, the used a metal mount that evenly weights the head of the cam.

Any thought that the method of attachment might have caused premature failure in the above mentioned cams?


mojomonkey


Aug 7, 2007, 4:38 PM
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Re: [cellardoor] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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cellardoor wrote:
question,

so i looked at the pictures of the two tensile tested cams that failed at 1.1k and 1.2k. What kind of torque does that method or rigging the head with webbing produce? It seems abit sketch to me to weight it from one side of the head. In the picture of the cam being stressed you can see an uneven line of force as the cam head is bent at an angle.

Does this test seem like a valid one? I noticed on the pull testing picutres that cch posted, the used a metal mount that evenly weights the head of the cam.

Any thought that the method of attachment might have caused premature failure in the above mentioned cams?

CCH argued against such testing on the May 31st entry on their "news" page:
http://www.aliencamsbycch.com/alien_news.html wrote:
May 31 2007
The UIAA standard for testing frictional anchors(cams) is EN12276. All certification labs test cams to these standards. Testing an Alien by threading a cord under the cams and then applying force is not a valid test and it doesn't simulate use of the cam in a placement. In use, the cable eye can pivot in the direction of the force and also allow the cable stem to take the flex over its entire length With a cord under the cams and around the cable eye, the eye is twisted so that all the bending force is located at just one point: the base of the cable eye. This places undue stress at one point and can cause premature breakage, similar to placing the stem over an edge.

I think I asked about this on one of the other threads here but never heard any feedback on it...

However, the results they posted here looked like they were just looping cord under the lobes. I couldn't see anything else in the low. res photos they provide and there is no descriptions of the attachment


domu888


Aug 9, 2007, 2:13 PM
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Re: [mojomonkey] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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The pictures on their website don't seem to match the setup shown on the UIAA website http://www.uiaa.ch/...rictionalAnchors.pdf.


I think they will just have to make sure the testing is done by an UIAA approved lab as listed on the UIAA website.


(This post was edited by domu888 on Aug 13, 2007, 4:43 AM)


domu888


Aug 14, 2007, 7:13 AM
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Re: [domu888] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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I did some research regarding UIAA certification for another thread http://www.rockclimbing.com/...um.cgi?post=1655445;

Aliens still have a UIAA certificate, but those are valid for 3 years. That means it is possible that the new design is still covered by the old design's certificateMad though i don't know for sure. It would be nice to get the opinion of someone who deals with UIAA more often.


swede


Aug 14, 2007, 8:31 AM
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Re: [russwalling] Aliens: Current Situation? [In reply to]
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russwalling wrote:
yes I would believe you.

This quotation basically says it all about the Alien threads.

I had been trying to follow ALL of this written about Aliens - in the end everything boils down to the abovementioned who you should believe since third party facts are lacking. For example, one thread of much interest was the "Souders Crack", these guys have not been heard of for months - trust or not trust?

There are people (on both side in this issue) to whom I would entrust my life. Wise - probably not since I will most probably never meet them. And even if I met them I will spend to little time with them to really know them.

Since "current situation" will probably remain unclear - each and everyone of us have to make up our minds: does the risk of climbing with cams made by CCH outweight the advantages of the Alien design? I think some people will be seriously hurt because giving up using CCH cams and others will be seriously hurt because of using Alens if the QC is still that bad. Which of the two which will be the worst we might never know.

Clearly, if CCH had had a better QC from the start we would all have been better off. But a few dollars poorer for some extra QC costs.


(This post was edited by swede on Aug 14, 2007, 10:44 AM)


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