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edmontonalta
Aug 18, 2007, 8:09 AM
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The mosquitoes and my fear of heights exhausted me mentally and I made too many mistakes. The climb down into the falls went pretty well. I didnt repell because I had crappy rope. Getting back up was quite hard. The sides of cliff were mossy with no footholds. I had to cam myself up using my back and knees. The rocks that had jammed into the vertical crevace seemed solid but cant forget aron ralston. There were no anchors once I got into the falls. I tied 50 ft of poly pro to one of my ropes I used to get into falls and climbed down a 50 ft waterfall. One of the boulders jammed in the vertical crack I climbed down looked like a good anchor but it was set pretty precariously. Anyway, I managed to retieve one of my lost packs. I still have one lower fall to explore.
Where I found pack. Two waterfalls up from lake.
Swiss seat
Two packs
50 ft climb down waterfall using poly pro
Looking down 50 ft waterfall from top
Found the pack I dropped couple days ago. Small animal ate the plastic bag that held my can of mosquito dope. The buckle of
backpack strap broke.
Climb down into falls. You cant see the top boulder that was hard to climb around.
Anchor. I also tied this rope to another tree in series. I ended up using all 75 ft and it only reached half way down initial cliff.
(This post was edited by edmontonalta on Aug 18, 2007, 8:54 AM)
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edmontonalta
Aug 18, 2007, 9:29 AM
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Are rocks jammed in crevaces ever used as anchors? I realize some are more precarious than others.
(This post was edited by edmontonalta on Aug 18, 2007, 9:48 AM)
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viciado
Aug 18, 2007, 11:20 AM
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A few comments to help you in your exploits:
1) You are close to competing with Majid, but you need more coloured arrows.
2)As for your anchors, it would be good to take some used tires or abandoned truck wheels to jam into the cracks.
3) A few more side references to well known but unfortunate climbers would be a nice touch.
4) You do well to ignore all of the helpful advice previously posted in reply to your questions. Llearning on your own by trial and error is great (in your own death defying way). Keep it up and the annual Darwin Award is yours!
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thomasribiere
Aug 18, 2007, 11:44 AM
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Your anchor is top quality, but the rope's color doesn't match the tree.
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billl7
Aug 18, 2007, 1:07 PM
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If for nothing else, good for you for wading through all the crap of RC.com.
Is this how you protected yourself:
* used one line - or two tied end to end;
* knots in the line for tie-in points;
* anchored one end up at the tree;
* harnessed yourself in at the other end;
* climbed down using the rope as a handline;
Anything else? Did you tie the knots as you went down? What were you planning to do if the climbing got too hard and you needed to weight the rope? Clip into one of the knot-loops? What did you see as your mistakes?
Bill L
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midwestishell
Aug 18, 2007, 3:36 PM
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I agree - good job sifting through the crap on this website. I really can't tell if it was useful to you though. I only ask that if you continue to play around with this stuff to seek some training from a friend. Many of the things you show/describe have been the punch lines for mountaineering accidents. I would prefer not to hear about one more.
Th
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majid_sabet
Aug 18, 2007, 3:52 PM
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he was not troll after all
love the rope attachments
the best ever
good job getting those packs
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
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billl7
Aug 18, 2007, 4:07 PM
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edmontonalta wrote: Are rocks jammed in crevaces ever used as anchors? I realize some are more precarious than others.
For using it to make an anchor, the question is whether the forces in any possible climber fall will cause the jammed rock (chock stone) a) to fail you as in come free or pinch/cut the rope/cord webbing - or b) to just serve to further jam the chock stone in place.
Bill L
P.S. Looking over your posts, your level of questions are far above your level of skill and experience (using nuts, pitons, chockstones - building harness). The question is whether it was natural mechanical sense that allowed you to skip over the bullshit answers and so survive the adventure ... or just luck and/or lack of money.
(This post was edited by billl7 on Aug 18, 2007, 4:22 PM)
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edmontonalta
Aug 18, 2007, 9:39 PM
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billl7 wrote: If for nothing else, good for you for wading through all the crap of RC.com. Is this how you protected yourself: * used one line - or two tied end to end; * knots in the line for tie-in points; * anchored one end up at the tree; * harnessed yourself in at the other end; * climbed down using the rope as a handline; Anything else? Did you tie the knots as you went down? What were you planning to do if the climbing got too hard and you needed to weight the rope? Clip into one of the knot-loops? What did you see as your mistakes? Bill L
-To get down waterfall, I had to tie 50 ft of poly to my 75 ft marine rope.
-Figure 8 knots for tie-in and grip
-I had to weight the ropes several times.
-I was always tied in to rope(figure 8 to biner and swiss seat)
-Knots were made as I went.
Mistakes:
-I was harassed by mosquitoes and was not thinking clearly. I wasnt thinking things out. My knots were suspect.
-I tied my second 75 ft rope to a small uprooted tree that was horizontal. This was a redundancy anchor. However , I ended up tying my 50 ft of poly to this rope forgetting that it was anchored poorly.
-by the end, I was in full panic mode. I was frantic to get out of the situation.
-Forgot my knife I was using to cut bush to get to parallel fall. Evidence that i was not thinking clearly.
-Became entangled in rope when coming up waterfall.
-dropped reverso (I was hauling up one pack on rope)
-I had to leave one pack behind as it was getting late. There was a headlamp in that pack but I just didnt have time or mental energy to remember that. Ended up with 2.5 hrs of hiking in dark. I had brought a flashlight.
(This post was edited by edmontonalta on Aug 18, 2007, 9:52 PM)
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billl7
Aug 18, 2007, 10:10 PM
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Wow. I won't even address this in the context of traditional rock protection. You should just know that you are missing out on a lot of protection techniques that are tried-and-true-and-much-safer under the guidance of someone with experience.
Still, two fundamental things jump out to me. First is the suspect anchor which you recognized after the fact. Second is it appears you had no plan for the real possibility that you could not get back up the waterfall.
There's another pack in the unexplored waterfall - right? Get two experience climbers to go with you to retrieve it. You'll learn a lot, maybe even have some fun, and will more likely live through it ... unless you actually enjoy the feeling of panic and being trapped. Ugh.
Bill L
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stagg54
Aug 18, 2007, 11:53 PM
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YOU ARE GONNA DIE
We are all gonaa die some day, but you are digging you're own grave man.
Take a class or take someone experienced along so they can teach you something. If you're having trouble convincing someone tell them that it would be comedic entertainment. I know I got a kick out of your story and pictures.
Good Luck on that Darwin, cause if you don't change, you're a sure win.
Oh and if you're gonna take the death plunge, don't do it around me, because hauling someone out is a real pain.
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steinmethod
Aug 19, 2007, 2:28 AM
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I guess your amazing posts can continue for now.... When i saw this thread i just laughed..... atleast you have lived another day....
dont push it.... PLEASE GET SOMEONE EXPERIENCED TO HELP YOU.....
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secretninja
Aug 19, 2007, 2:45 AM
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stagg54 wrote: YOU ARE GONNA DIE
Well said
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nepaclimber
Aug 19, 2007, 2:53 AM
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this is one commited troll, those packs look pretty nice for being out in the woods for so long, and now that you dropped your reverso are you going to need to get that because of your OCD? and i thought you lost your camera? my god this has been a unusual bit of posting, and if you are serious about this stuff that you did, you are incredibly lucky you arent dead yet, but i wouldnt push your luck
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edmontonalta
Aug 19, 2007, 3:08 AM
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nepaclimber wrote: this is one commited troll, those packs look pretty nice for being out in the woods for so long, and now that you dropped your reverso are you going to need to get that because of your OCD? and i thought you lost your camera? my god this has been a unusual bit of posting, and if you are serious about this stuff that you did, you are incredibly lucky you arent dead yet, but i wouldnt push your luck
My reverso will be easy to get. I lost my good camera a week ago. I then lost my cheap camera when i dropped my recent pack. When I found my pack I recovered my cheap camera. I'm definitely uncomfortable doing this stuff without someone to go for help. Descending into areas that I cant see clearly from the top adds risk. I wish I could start from bottom.
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billcoe_
Aug 19, 2007, 3:29 AM
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Mom wouldn't let ya borrow the clothsline eh?
Wise woman.
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hiyapokey
Aug 19, 2007, 4:10 AM
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The waterfall looks kinda 4th classish to me. Why would someone need pro for that climb?
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edmontonalta
Aug 19, 2007, 5:06 AM
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I needed to dangle from rope for the climb down into waterfall. there is a big rock at the top that plugs this vertical crevace. there is a big cave under this rock. I had to use my back and knees to squirm up so Id say 5th class. Cimbing down the 50 ft waterfall required a lot of imagination to find footholds. Some of the rock was loose. Anybody can climb 4th class without much trouble. From the pictures it looks like a leisurely walk up the falls.
The hardest thing is that Im climbing down and dont know what is below me.(obscured by bush). Alot of people would not use protection in this situation, i agree.
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hanginaround
Aug 19, 2007, 5:11 AM
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secretninja wrote: stagg54 wrote: YOU ARE GONNA DIE Well said
Seconded..
Please go to http://www.canyoneering.net and post this. They'll provide you some useful information
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marvinz
Aug 19, 2007, 7:19 AM
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What ... no D.B. Coopers loot after all?
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bent_gate
Aug 20, 2007, 12:47 AM
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mikebarter387 wrote: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4-pF5OBh2U Leave a comment and give me 5 stars. That way my profile rises on the youtube. Tell me what you want to see next I can cut a vid on any question you may have
Make a video with EdmontonAlta and his adventures, and I will give you 5 stars on every one of your videos. I'm serious.
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rymep
Aug 20, 2007, 2:15 AM
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edmontonalta wrote: Anybody can climb 4th class without much trouble.
You've never been to Little Cottonwood Canyon.
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johnathon78
Aug 20, 2007, 2:47 AM
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I seriously feel as if I have read this mans last words.....please dont die. I love you.
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